Frankenstein 99 Laramie

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SelfTaughtWrench

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Posts
2
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Location
Greeneville TN
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Ok guys I don’t know too much about turning wrench on these goats. Per a good build sheet and talking with the guys over at Hughes engines I’m going to go forged all the way through with a new 360 block bored .040 over. EQ heads edelbrock intake, big gulp throttle body the works. Thinking about a bullet proofed 46re built for lots of torque to replace the stock tranny. Just rebuilt the front end and found som much rust it’s a wonder it held together for 20 miles before I swapped most of it out. So here’s the question..... I’d like to replace the front and rear axle assemblies with something a bit better and I’m up in the air on what to do about headers and exhaust. What would be the best gears for the the rear end also??
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
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Feb 7, 2013
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Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Unless you're planning on running boost, nitrous or stupid high compression forged internals are a great cost for no benefit. In fact, you'll likely see less longevity. 408, well many kits are forged but you can also get them without forging. In the end, quite a bit overkill.

Front and rear axle assemblies and something better: do you have a 1500 2500 or 3500? What do you consider better? if you're simply looking for stronger and you have a 1500, D60s out of a 2500 are mostly plug and play and they're stronger. 2500 or 3500 truck, waste of time to find something stronger for a 360 unless you're wanting 44+" tires.

Headers and exhaust: pacesetter longtubes. Don't waste your time on shorties for a healthy upgraded 360. They have tiny 1.5" primary pipes, crap factory 2" ball collectors and crap factory ypipe. Pacesetter longtubes are a 1-3/4" primary that is much more appropriate for a 360 cube or bigger motor, especially an upgraded one. Dual 2.5" will provide plenty of power though with those longtubes you could do dual 3" if you wanted and not see a decrease in performance. At that point you're looking at cost, sound and weight.

Gearing: depends on tire size and what you're wanting out of the truck. Me for example, I run 4.56s. Currently I'm running 315/70/17s which are about a 34.4x12.4 tire. I LOVE it though I'll be going back down to 285/70/17s soon. The 315s have great drivability, like a new truck. the 285s though are fun as hell to drive, have a bit higher rpm and I actually get better mileage. That and they're still in my storage unit. The gears I run are even still appropriate for a 37" tire OR a hot street build on a 30-31" tire.

BTW, skip hughes tuning. Comes from a company called Performance Injection Equipment and they have a quite expansive history of killing engines with their tuning. Much better options out there (not hemifever either)
 
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SelfTaughtWrench

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Posts
2
Reaction score
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Location
Greeneville TN
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Ok I’ve got a 1500. Right now I’m bone stock at 105k on her. Would I get plenty of power if I switched to the eq heads h1 intake and big gulp tb. And re ring the pistons new oil pump water pump timing kit. I take care of my vehicles on the maintenance side and rarely jump on the gas. I just want a solid truck that’s not going to fail me because of cheap parts. I just purchased her for 8500 body is show room condition and interior is about an 8. Just replaced the front end completely minus axles. The rust is on my spring seats and the frame has got some good surface rust. I do haul alfalfa for a client through out the winter 125 bales at a time and good amounts of lumber for fencing and deck jobs.
 
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