Front Calipers (New) seizing 2019 classic

[Hoovesgonewild]

Hi everybody! Thank you for adding me.

***This is a long “condensed” read, but need to provide context***

I have a 2019 1500 Classic Eco Diesel that I absolutely LOVE.

I desperately need some input regarding my front brakes. I had the brakes done a couple of months ago, (rotors pads and a caliper on the left side replaced).

If ANYONE has any mechanical experience or knowledge of where to go from here I would so greatly appreciate it!!

The old caliper was a complete mess, the piston boots were mush.

After the job I drove it, seemed fine but needed to go into town (about 40 miles 90% hwy), stayed about 30 minutes then headed back home. Then about 25 minutes into the drive (on the hwy) the caliper on the left side started smoking, badly!

Had it towed back to the mechanic, replaced the caliper (again) and brake hose, new caliper still sticking and noticed the right side was also getting hot and could smell burning (no new caliper on that side).
Also, gas mileage went from 24.5 avg mpg to 14, gears wouldn’t shift trying to go over 55 or so.

Mechanic suggests (and I also felt) there was a communication issue somewhere, possibly ABS module.

Take it to RAM service and they hooked up the computer to the ABS module which read “normal”.
They are insisting it is the new caliper but can’t explain the right side.

So, they suggest to replace both calipers (covered by warranty), the rotors which the left was warped anyway and a brake fluid flush. (They did find damage to the right caliper)

I pick it up yesterday and drive it to town, “seems” ok but still driving rough or wobbly. Mpg is a lot better but I feel it start to shake really bad, pull over and the right side is extremely hot, I smell the burning (very strong). The left side is hot but not like the right side.

I let the brakes cool down a bit and took the long way (non-hwy) back home. I stopped and checked the brakes about half way and they were not hot (just warm), no smell. So I cautiously drove it back home, not going over 60.

I couldn’t take it back to the dealer because they were closed and I have no other vehicle to get back home in (it is locked up at the dealer’s “bullpen”)

Now! With all that being said I am racking my brain on what the flipflop is going on!

Since I use the cruise control religiously on the highway I thought maybe there’s something going on there, so I look up cruise control and brakes as why do calipers seize or stick.

I found the following:

* The PCM “looks at signals from the ABS module”
* The ABS module communicates with speed sensors.

But nothing that glaringly connects them to the issue.

AGAIN, If ANYONE has any mechanical experience or knowledge for any suggestions of where to go from here I would be so grateful!

**NO WARNING LIGHTS HAVE COME ON DURING THIS WHOLE FIASCO**

 

[chrisbh17]

If ABS was engaging, you would know it. The pump is not quiet and the vibration you get through the brake pedal is not the same as a "warped" rotor vibration.

I believe there is a fuse you can pull to completely disable ABS...carefully, it might be a good test.

Personally starting to think its not caliper related, but could be master cylinder related, and if there is a valve block involved, that too.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Hope the Mechanic didn't push the piston back into the caliper that could of causes air to get into the ABS unit, put the truck into reverse and slam the brake pedal to the floor, do this several times this may cause the air to be purged from the ABS, if not the dealer has the equipment to recalibrate to ABS.

 

[Hoovesgonewild]

If ABS was engaging, you would know it. The pump is not quiet and the vibration you get through the brake pedal is not the same as a "warped" rotor vibration.

I believe there is a fuse you can pull to completely disable ABS...carefully, it might be a good test.

Personally starting to think its not caliper related, but could be master cylinder related, and if there is a valve block involved, that too.

Wanted to let you know that you were right, it was the MC and the vibration was coming from the warped rotors. Thank you!

 

[Hoovesgonewild]

If ABS was engaging, you would know it. The pump is not quiet and the vibration you get through the brake pedal is not the same as a "warped" rotor vibration.

I believe there is a fuse you can pull to completely disable ABS...carefully, it might be a good test.

Personally starting to think its not caliper related, but could be master cylinder related, and if there is a valve block involved, that too.

I have been meaning to respond to this for A WHILE!! So sorry for the delay, but I really need to tell you that the issue was the MASTER CYLINDER all along. You were the only one that mentioned it. In the beginning of my troubles I actually mentioned in passing, like, "could it be the MC?" to the Dealer Service Manager... But all I got was deer in the headlights look on his face...

Finally got it properly diagnosed by a old school mechanic when I was at my wits end last year and knew just by logic it had to be anything but at the wheel end of the brake system. Logically when working back up the system it had to be something else as I was pleading with other garages to listen to me!! I bought a laser thermometer because I was checking the heat from the rotors for my own sanity and because I love rabbit holes i started checking the temp of the Master Cylinder and it was as hot as the rotors... I'm no mechanic but after looking up if that was normal, it was NOT normal... Told the garage my findings at the time and was told "just keep driving it, the rotors need to break in"...

The reason the problem was intermittent and sometimes on the left and sometimes on the right side, was because the pressure in the Master Cylinder would build after driving a few days, once it built up to a point it wouldn't allow the break fluid to get to the breaks. Not driving for a few days, the pressure would release and it would drive ok until it built up again. Also, going in reverse would remedy the symptoms only because that was a quick release tactic, if you will, so it seemed work, but only temporarily.

Long story short:
1. Trust your instincts
2. Research how things work
3. Find an old school mechanic that can get you through it. "Technicians" don't care and don't know **** about real world situations and don't care to discover and go down a rabbit hole!
4. Keep one of the thermal thermometers handy! It reaffirmed by sanity!

**NOTE** I did not ruin anything but could have.... Only needed to replace the rotor on the passenger side (they had just been replaced a month prior)

Anyway just wanted to thank you!