Gas mileage on the 3.6 V6

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Donutsahoy

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Awesome. How heavy have you towed with it? Could it safely pull 9K?
It’s 4x4 right?


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road

It was just a medium sized U-Haul with a spinnet piano in the back. So nothing crazy but it did a very nice job of it.

Yes my truck has 4x4, very nice :D

Safely pull 9K is a bit of a debate. According to the documentation technically the Eco Diesel cannot pull 9K. 46366a6e276844bffc88759c201c7953.jpg

Even though the EcoDiesel can’t technically tow as much as the Hemi I still posit that the Eco is a better choice because at the upper extreme of towing capacity an upgrade to a 2500 would be the best option. And if towing within the capacity the EcoDiesel will make better mileage and more comfortable ride.

Just my two cents.


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Edit: To clarify, in the picture above, the Eco Diesel options are in the very top right corner, 3.0 V6 TD, the 1000# difference is based on gearing.
 
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JV Ram

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I actually pulled a roughly 3K pound trailer with my V6 3.21 axel. Keep in mind I live in WV so it’s all hills. Was getting 13.9 mpg averaging 55 mph on all hills. Was very pleasantly surprised!


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Beerwolf

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My 3.6 Tradesman has a GCWR of 12,800 lbs. Loaded up for camping I am weighing in at 12,550. V6 tows great as long as you are staying at 65 mph or less, it does have to work really hard if you try to maintain 70 mph or greater. I generally tow at 60 to 65 anyway, just not comfortable going too fast with any trailer. The v6 also gives you the highest payload (1890 on my QC 2wd). The 5.7 or eco I would be over the payload capacity with my rig's 950lb tongue weight. A lot of folks run out of payload capacity before the hit the max tow rating on the 5.7 or eco so you may not be able to tow more than the v6 if your 5.7 or eco is fully loaded.

If you want best towing/acceleration get the 5.7 with the 3.92, best mpg get the eco diesel. The v6 is kind of in the middle and does it all pretty well at the lowest price.

My last RV was a class A that go 6.5 mpg with a tailwind, the Ram is way cheaper to drive.

From recent trips

Towing at max > 65 mph
E85 - 7.9
Regular - 8.9

Towing at max < 65 mph
E85 - 10.2
Regular - 11.8

Weekday city driving (Chicago) short trips
E85 - 11.5
Regular - 13.0

Highway driving Empty - 70 mph average
E85 - 16.9
Regular - 23.2

Best mpg, empty leaving Chicago in snowstorm, traffic moving at 30 - 40 mph, 31.2 mpg regular gas, hand calculated.
 

pat leary

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The engine isn't the only thing to be worried about,you also need to be concerned about,the rear end gears .The gears I had in my 2017 had 3.21 gears.Very light for pulling a load.I went to a 2018 with 5.7 hemi and 3.92 gears what a difference it makes pulling a load.I would consider 9000 lbs to be a load.If you do get the 3.0 diesel and I would think about the 3.92 gears.
 

50BMG

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You'll want to recalibrate your computer to account for the larger tire size then, I don't remember what is required for that process. Someone who has can step in and give you a quick run down or you can find it on the site.

Basically what is happening is that you increased the weight and size of the tires which increases the amount your engine has to work to produce a similar result, BUT the bigger tires mean you are going further.

TLDR: Physics... yo

Also changed tire size without compensation means your speedometer is not reading accurately either.

EDIT: So yes your gas mileage took a bit of a hit because bigger tires but it's not quite as bad as it sounds (I hope) just need to re calibrate so your computer knows you're running 20's not 17's.

Hope this makes sense.

Joe, You actually didn't get the mileage decrease you think you did...

As Donut suggested, weight actually has a very small part to play in that equation.
The mileage on your truck's ODO/computer is different because the tire diameter of your new tires is larger. So, the wheel makes less rotations per mile due to the bigger circumference of the new tire, and, since your computer see's the wheel rotating less per mile, but you are still using the same mount of gas, it is calculating your loss of @ 2miles per gallon. In reality, your mileage is actually about the same...
I confirmed this 2 ways on my truck; by doing the math (comparing the rotations per mile on the 2 different diameter tires) and also on the road using a separate window-mounted GPS device when I took a 200 mile road trip in the truck one day.

Since the difference on mine was so minor (same 20" wheels just slightly taller tires), I don't think it would be worth the effort or $ to reflash the computer to correct for it, but you also need to remember that your speedo is slightly "off" on the low-side of your actual speed.
Since the tire diameter difference makes the speedo off by a "percentage" of the actual speed, the faster you go, the higher the difference in the actual and speedo-measured speed will be. So 70MPH, is probably actually closer to 73-75MPH.
Of course, the Po-Po's radar clocks your real speed...
:eek::oops::(:mad:
 
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JV Ram

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Went a head and had it reflashed. Haven’t had a chance to test it out but I am hoping to get a better reading either way. Thanks for all the input everyone!


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Marine Les

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With 50/50 hwy/city I'm getting 22/23 down 2mpg with the colder temps. On towing the most weight was #4000 and with the 3.55 gears my v6 did really well mpg and power wise. If I pulled #9000 the 2500 w/6.4 is my choice beating out the Cummins for cost reasons. If towing really heavy and lots of miles the Cummins is hard to beat.
 
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JV Ram

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With 50/50 hwy/city I'm getting 22/23 down 2mpg with the colder temps. On towing the most weight was #4000 and with the 3.55 gears my v6 did really well mpg and power wise. If I pulled #9000 the 2500 w/6.4 is my choice beating out the Cummins for cost reasons. If towing really heavy and lots of miles the Cummins is hard to beat.

In the city I get about 18 mpg. But all the highways where I live are just hills. So I get 15 on highway it seems. Kinda disappointed I got the truck retuned for the bigger tires and it really hasn’t done much. Maybe I just haven’t given it enough to time catch up.


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Rado

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ON my 2015 Quad Cab 4x4 doing 70/75 MPH I avg 21.7 best was 23.4 ,around town around 20/21 MPG so not much a difference ! BUT with winter Gas avg 19 MPG around town
 

50BMG

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Completely reset your mileage/economy setting Joe, and start from scratch. You should be able to tell in less than a day what the reflash did for you, if anything.
Rado brings up a good point too; winter gas... That will cause a fairly significant decrease in fuel efficiency too. You might need to wait until spring to tell for sure...

I know everything is "electric/electronic" now, but can they actually just "reflash" the computer to make up for what would traditionally require a new speedo gear in the tranny-tail to fix? Heck, I guess I'm also assuming there is still even an actual physical connection to the output shaft of the tranny that reading output revolutions anymore (is there?). Even so, does the speed work off the crankshaft position sensor nowadays? Does anyone know? Bueller? Bueller? ;-)

Yes, the mass of the larger tires could make a difference in reducing the mileage, but if you think about it, that "should" only play a part in city driving or with a lot of frequent stops/starts. Once you're up to speed, and even the heavier mass gets rotating, there may actually be an INCREASE in efficiency at that point, simply because the larger rotating mass would be less resistant to deceleration caused by hills, even wind, etc... and that should keep your foot farther away from the firewall, no?

When I did the calculations on my truck, it was just slightly larger tires on the same sized wheels, and that was pretty easy to figure out. But you went from 18" to 20" wheels didn't you Joe?
What size were you're old tire? The new ones are the factory 265-60 R20's right?
I you get me the tire sizes, I should be able to figure out the differences mathematically and we can see if that the same as you are noticing through the computer...
 

wkualum

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I love my truck but hate the MPG. I totally thought I would get better than this when I bought this truck. Here are some stats from a drive from Michigan to Kentucky. 2016 4x4 CC V6.

20181227_172123.jpg
 
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JV Ram

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I’m averaging about 14 in city now with good driving and about 20 on highway. These big rims and tires killed my MPG.


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50BMG

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Not so great WKU...
Unless you are just getting off the freeway in that pic, 74MPH average is kinda fast too.
Do you have bigger tires too?
I'm betting cold weather/winter gas is also a good part of your poor mileage equation...

Check this out:
https://www.metrompg.com/posts/winter-mpg.htm

Cold weather fuel consumption can be dramatically worse than in warm temperatures.
How much worse?
Have a gander at these calculations for a Honda Civic hybrid at 60 MPH in varying ambient temperatures (the winter effects on a hybrid are even worse than an all gas vehicle):

MPH-----AMBIENT-TEMP-----MPG (US)

60------------95----------52.98
60------------85----------52.62
60------------75----------51.16
60------------65----------49.12
60------------55----------47.22
60------------45----------44.67
60------------35----------43.05
60------------25----------41.54
60------------15----------39.41
60------------05----------38.09

Look at the extremes: the coldest MPG is 28% lower than the warmest. (Source.)

My own experience supports this: 12.5% worse mileage during the colder half of the year (Oct 15 to Apr 15) than for the warmest half (Apr 15 - Oct 15), on average 2002-2004 in my 1989 Accord. Comparing just the warmest months (Jun-Aug) to the coldest (Dec-Feb), the difference is even more apparent - 21.2% worse (2002).

Why so bad? Off the top of my head, I could think of a couple of reasons to explain it, but together they didn't seem significant enough to account for the magnitude of the change. With this mystery to solve, I hit Google. And here's what I learned...

9 reasons your winter fuel economy bites
1. More idling

This should be a no-brainer, yet parked idling cars are a common sight in cold weather. Resist the temptation to idle your car to warm it up. An idling engine gets 0 mpg. Consider also that idling the engine does nothing to warm up the tires and drivetrain.
Even in the coldest weather, you can begin driving after 30 seconds from a cold start - keep speeds low/moderate and use gentle acceleration until the temperature gauge starts to climb (source).

2. Low tire pressure
Of course you're smart enough to keep up your tire pressure as the temperature drops, right? A 10-degree (F) change in ambient temperature equates to a 1 psi change in tire pressure (source). Fuel economy declines 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop (source).

3. Increased rolling resistance
Even if you're completely attentive to proper tire pressure, cold ambient temperatures will still cause your tires to return worse mileage. That's because a tire's shape isn't completely round - the sidewall bulges out at the bottom, and where the tread meets the road the small contact patch is actually flat. As the tire rotates, it constantly deforms to this shape, and this deformation requires more energy when the rubber is cold and hard. Rolling resistance at 0 degrees F is 20% greater than at 80 degrees (source 1, source 2).

4. Crappy road conditions
It's increased rolling resistance of another kind: driving through slush and snow. And then there's its wasteful polar (no pun intended) opposite: no friction at all! (A.K.A. wheelspin on ice.)

5. Lower average engine temperature
In the winter, an engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and cools off faster when shut off. Since the engine management system orders up a richer mixture when cold (proportionately more fuel in the air/fuel combination), more fuel is being burned overall.
A block heater can offset this problem (improving fuel economy by 10% in sub-zero conditions - source), as can garage parking, and combining trips (to minimize the number of cold/hot cycles).

6. Higher average lubricant viscosity
Engine oil thickens as it cools. So does transmission and differential fluids and even bearing grease. Significantly more energy is needed to overcome the added drag these cold lubricants cause.
Using synthetic fluids can address this problem, since their viscosity changes less at extreme temperatures than traditional mineral fluids.

7. Weaker gasoline
Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a liter of winter gas as you will on a liter of summer gas. (Source.)

8. Higher electrical loads
In colder temps, you use electrical accessories more often:
- lights (in higher lattitudes it's darker in the winter)
- rear window defroster (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right?)
- heater blower motor (I don't have a/c, so this isn't balanced out during warm conditions); heated seats/mirrors
- windshield washer pump (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right? And for frequently cleaning off dirty road spray.)

9. More aerodynamic drag
No, I'm not referring to the layer of snow you're too lazy to brush off the top of the car (though that would hurt mpg too).
A vehicle�s aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density, and the density increases as temperature drops. For every 10 degree F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2% (source).
 
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JV Ram

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I’d say all of those are a big factor for my truck. I remote start it in the morning to get it warm about 10 minutes before I leave. When I first put the tires on in the summer my gas mileage in the city was at roughly 16.5 so I think starting it in the morning is killing the MPG.


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wkualum

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I do have the 20 inch rims and assumed winter fuel played a role in some of my mileage woes but didn't think this would impact it that bad. Here's another picture I took while driving. I know I shouldn't have but it just didn't make any sense to me for it being so low. I know I'm traveling a little fast but parts of I-69 south are 70 MPH so I am just keeping up with traffic. ;)

The other complaint is related to 8th gear. I feel like my truck never gets there. It seems like it likes to stay in 7th. Do other V6'ers experience the same thing?

20181227_153028.jpg
 
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JV Ram

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I have 20” rims- 33”-12” tires and do almost no highway driving. Think you’re getting pretty decent fuel mileage compared to me.


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droopie85gt

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I do have the 20 inch rims and assumed winter fuel played a role in some of my mileage woes but didn't think this would impact it that bad. Here's another picture I took while driving. I know I shouldn't have but it just didn't make any sense to me for it being so low. I know I'm traveling a little fast but parts of I-69 south are 70 MPH so I am just keeping up with traffic. ;)

The other complaint is related to 8th gear. I feel like my truck never gets there. It seems like it likes to stay in 7th. Do other V6'ers experience the same thing?

Yes, if I am going more than 70 and come up a .0005% incline it kicks to 7th. If there is a headwind of more than 3mph it kicks to 7th. I try to get on the interstate and keep it around 75mph. On flat ground (like eastern Arkansas) I can avg 22-23mpg. But head up thru middle and east TN into the hills it continually downshifts into 7th, 6th and even 5th. I have the 3.21 axle. I've wondered about going to a junkyard and getting a 3.5x or 3.9x and swapping rear ends. But it really comes down to the 267 lb ft of torque this pentastar makes is not enough to lug the truck with any possible added load about about 70-75 mph. It has to downshift.
 

rule18

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I've got the 3.92 rear and stay in 8th for most highway conditions. If I get on it for a steeper incline, it certainly drops to 7th or less. Most months of the year in the Northeast I'm getting between 19-21 on the highway at 70-73 mph. All that said, if I'm between 65-70 I'll drop it down to 7th manually to hover around 2100-2200 rpms, mpg goes up a bit in that range. At the end of the day, the truck's slightly more aerodynamic than a brick (aka my Wrangler) so the mpg conversation is more academic than anything else.
 

KWG88ss

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I have seen a few threads before on this. But I am curious what gas mileage the V6’s are getting. I was averaging about 18 in city and 21-23 on highway before I went to 20” rims (275/60-20) and a leveling kit. Went down to 15.5-16 in city and 18-20 on highway. Also depends on how I drive. Drove the truck hard all week and got 12.1 mpg some how and can’t seem to get it back up over 14(reset the computers). Any tips or tricks besides switching back to stock tire size you guys would recommend? I put in an aftermarket air filter but it didn’t seem to help at all.


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You’re probably driving heavy. I average about 28 on the highway but only 17-18 in the city. Our city driving is all PA hills however.


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farout75

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You'll want to recalibrate your computer to account for the larger tire size then, I don't remember what is required for that process. Someone who has can step in and give you a quick run down or you can find it on the site.

Basically what is happening is that you increased the weight and size of the tires which increases the amount your engine has to work to produce a similar result, BUT the bigger tires mean you are going further.

TLDR: Physics... yo

Also changed tire size without compensation means your speedometer is not reading accurately either.

EDIT: So yes your gas mileage took a bit of a hit because bigger tires but it's not quite as bad as it sounds (I hope) just need to re calibrate so your computer knows you're running 20's not 17's.

Hope this makes sense.


I have had two 3.6 engines in a 13 and 14 RAM 1500. I had the 3:21 gear ratio in the 13 , and the 3:55 in the 14. Both were crew cabs. In both the mpg were pretty much the same. Typical was 21 to 23 mpg measured by actual gallings into the miles, not what the truck said. I tried the 91 octane and it did increase the mpg to 24 - 25 but for the gig difference in $ per gallon over the 87 octane is just was not worth the extra $.

I did tow a wood spliter trailer and even being a small amount of weight the mpg went down to 15 mpg.

One thing I disliked greatly with the 3.6 lack of torque 269 lbs is poor when going on hwy 44 Camenton, MO to Springfield, Mo. The truck had to be made to stay in 6th gear to keep up with traffic up those long steep grades. Mind you this is a 4 lane hwy.

For me the 3.6 makes the RAM 1500 crew cab a very light duty truck. If FCA increased the torque to 305 the same number as the hp then it would be a far better choice. Even with the E troque its not the best choice. When trading or selling the 3.6 RAM you take a nearly $1, 400. hit.
 
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