Hesitation/Stumble Issue

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grizzstang

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I would see if any codes can be pulled to indicate a cylinder.

If not buy one new coil and move from cylinder to cylinder and drive it to see if the problem disappears.
 
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Snoopy48

Snoopy48

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I would see if any codes can be pulled to indicate a cylinder.

If not buy one new coil and move from cylinder to cylinder and drive it to see if the problem disappears.


Ok, will try it. I buy most everything from RockAuto so I will order one today. Good idea, thanks
 

RysRam

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Snoopy48, does your truck have the 6 speed trans or the 8 speed?

I just re-read your original post...

Now, disregarding the tick, which can be a serious issue but is unfortunately common......what you're describing sounds like MDS activating along with the converter locking/unlocking. Particularly the part where you mention the hesitation goes away in tow/haul. My '13 does the same thing.

Try setting the ERS to the highest available gear (6 or 8). You do this using the +/- buttons on your steering wheel if it's an 8 speed or via the shifter if it's a 6 speed. This will turn off MDS completely. See if the hesitation goes away then.
 
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Snoopy48

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Snoopy48, does your truck have the 6 speed trans or the 8 speed?

I just re-read your original post...

Now, disregarding the tick, which can be a serious issue but is unfortunately common......what you're describing sounds like MDS activating along with the converter locking/unlocking. Particularly the part where you mention the hesitation goes away in tow/haul. My '13 does the same thing.

Try setting the ERS to the highest available gear (6 or 8). You do this using the +/- buttons on your steering wheel if it's an 8 speed or via the shifter if it's a 6 speed. This will turn off MDS completely. See if the hesitation goes away then.


It is a 6 speed. I have tried that a few times and the hesitation is still there. I was also mistaken about the tow/haul. I have been playing around with that is it actually still does this with tow/haul on or off.
 
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Snoopy48

Snoopy48

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Try setting the ERS to the highest available gear (6 or 8). You do this using the +/- buttons on your steering wheel if it's an 8 speed or via the shifter if it's a 6 speed. This will turn off MDS completely. See if the hesitation goes away then.

Tried, it a few different times, same thing, nothing changes.
 
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Snoopy48

Snoopy48

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Question. In lieu of getting into the coil pack issue right now. Would it be worth the chance to first try changing the Crank Position Sensor? Could that cause what I am feeling?
 

RysRam

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It's been my experience that a bad crank sensor will manifest in weirdness when starting the truck.....
 
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Snoopy48

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It's been my experience that a bad crank sensor will manifest in weirdness when starting the truck.....

Gotcha. I wish I could figure this thing crap out. it runs PERFECT at idle but while accelerating it has this slight jerking/shuttering feeling. I guess I will have to start with the coil-pack thing anyway.
 

Gmjrpayne

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I agree on pop the valve cover and take a look ..this lifter failure crap ****** me off .. I am beginning to wonder if ALL 5.7 hemi have this problem..
 
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Snoopy48

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I agree on pop the valve cover and take a look ..this lifter failure crap ****** me off .. I am beginning to wonder if ALL 5.7 hemi have this problem..

We have a shop here in my town that does nothing modding, tuning and rebuilding the modern stuff. I talked to him at lunch. He was laughing with sadness about my problem. He said he has HEMI's in his shop on a somewhat regular basis with these same problems. In fact, he just finished up one that he had to replace a cam and lifters on because of this issue. If that is indeed my problem, I am looking at $3,500.00 parts & labor. This guy is extremely intelligent as to the reasoning behind why this happens and explained it all in great detail. Ultimately, IF that is my problem it is related to the MDS.

I could potentially be in a predicament, I cannot afford $3500 to fix Dodges' screw up and I cannot afford to keep driving it & risking doing further damage if the lifter locked up or came apart and wore down the cam lobe. He was also leaning towards this as my problem since my truck has never thrown a code or the engine light coming on. He said that tends to lean towards a mechanical issue such as the "lifter". Of course, I understand that as well being a (OLD SCHOOL) mechanic all my life. This new computer controlled garbage, I don't know anything about and don't want to know anything about it. So, even pulling the V/C may or may not tell if it's in the early stages of destruction.

So, I am l now REALLY looking at getting rid of this POS. If it was only me and one or two more with this problem it would not bother so much. I see way too many online having these same issues and that is unacceptable to me. It is unacceptable that Dodge has not issued a recall for these year model truck having these exact issues or at least have developed a procedure to check these truck when people like me have these symptoms. So, ultimately the consumer takes it up the *** once again by one of the BIG 5. NICE!!!
 

RysRam

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We're pretty much getting a new one of these threads every day. These things are eating cams. The owners know it and FCA knows it. FCA isn't going to do **** about it. It's not even just the Hemi in the 4thgen 1500....chargers, challengers and durangos are failing too. The mostly trash service network doesn't help either.
 
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Snoopy48

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We're pretty much getting a new one of these threads every day. These things are eating cams. The owners know it and FCA knows it. FCA isn't going to do **** about it. It's not even just the Hemi in the 4thgen 1500....chargers, challengers and durangos are failing too. The mostly trash service network doesn't help either.


It's just another example of the manufacturer not taking responsibility for their faulty product. By Dodge acknowledging the issue as a "problem" that means they have to take responsibility for it. As it is right now, they don't have to do anything about it. Of course, for me the issue is deeper than Dodge. The issue is the crooked *** federal Government & the screaming tree huggers hamstringing the Big 5 with so many regulations that this "MDS" method of "so called" gas savings is the best they can apparently come up with. It's not just Dodge, Chevy is having some of these same issues with their trucks. I think their version of the MDS is something called DOD/AFM. Regardless, whoever allowed this to MDS crap to go into production should have his/her *** kicked and then fired! I bought an 8 cylinder truck, I expect to have 8 cylinders functioning at ALL times, not just when Dodge decides I should based on their programming. I save more gas than anything they are willing to come up with simply by how I drive. My foot is the best gas savings method I have ever found!
 

grizzstang

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If it were me I would find out what the problem is before condemning the truck and putting it up for sale. Not every Hemi suffers from cam failure and your truck has pretty low miles. Every brand has their issues so if you think you would be better off with something else I wish you luck.
 
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Snoopy48

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If it were me I would find out what the problem is before condemning the truck and putting it up for sale. Not every Hemi suffers from cam failure and your truck has pretty low miles. Every brand has their issues so if you think you would be better off with something else I wish you luck.

I agree with you totally but again, I simply cannot afford to throw parts at this thing much less paying a mechanic $100 a hour to try and find it. That's my delima.

I continue to play around with the MDS (on & off), tow/haul (on & off) and it still consistently shutters/jerks/misfires/stumbles/hesitates or whatever a person wants to call it. It is mostly under slight loads and mild acceleration. If I stomp it to the floor, there are NO problems, runs strong and pulls hard. Otherwise, No codes, no lights, no noises and runs at idle as smooth as as electric car.
 

SportinaHemi

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When I test drove my truck it threw a CEL, and hesitated/stumbled under load. Being easy on it is was not as bad but if you floored it, it chugged sputtered and did not want to comply. I parked it, read the code which was misfire in #3. The fix was right about what you said, $3,600, they also found brokent manifold bolts, which they fixed too. This work would have been covered by drivetrain warranty, do you not have any warranty left on it? Luckily the dealership includes a 200k/7yr drivetrain warranty on any used vehicles sold with under 100k miles on it. I wish you the best of luck man.
 

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