I'm sorry to have to do this...

[sbarron]

You could run a higher gauge to the switch, you're dealing with milliamps to trigger the relay. Remember to fuse main power not at 40 amp, but at 20 amp (light draw not relay capacity). If using a relay, no need to fuse the switch/trigger circuit.

 

[AustinB]

Awesome. Thanks!


IMO

 

[AustinB]

Someone explain this for me.
My light came with two different harnesses. One makes perfect sense.. The other, Im not so sure about. Though it's not a huge deal because I will be adding/soldering my own wire into these to make my "custom fit" harness.
I still would just like to know why one looks like this:

If you follow it from right to left, at the end of the white wire, theres a connection for the switch wire (I will not be using these switches).. 2 wires run up to the switch, and then theres those other 2 (long red, shorter black).. What is the purpose of these 2 extra ones branching off?


IMO

 

[maple]

Someone explain this for me.
My light came with two different harnesses. One makes perfect sense.. The other, Im not so sure about. Though it's not a huge deal because I will be adding/soldering my own wire into these to make my "custom fit" harness.
I still would just like to know why one looks like this:

If you follow it from right to left, at the end of the white wire, theres a connection for the switch wire (I will not be using these switches).. 2 wires run up to the switch, and then theres those other 2 (long red, shorter black).. What is the purpose of these 2 extra ones branching off?


IMO

The switch has a light in it so power and ground

 

[AustinB]

The switch has a light in it so power and ground

I was thinking that. So it's basically intended to connect to power/ground inside the cab?

Cause it damn sure isn't long enough to reach back into the engine bay. Oh well, thanks for the info!

I'm just using the smallest toggle switch I can find to fit in the empty buttons under the radio.
IMO

 

[maple]

I was thinking that. So it's basically intended to connect to power/ground inside the cab?

Cause it damn sure isn't long enough to reach back into the engine bay. Oh well, thanks for the info!

I'm just using the smallest toggle switch I can find to fit in the empty buttons under the radio.
IMO

Yeah I just did a toggle as well but I ran my power wire to my drive side fog light so the only way the toggle would work is if the fogs lights are on

 

[AustinB]

Yeah I just did a toggle as well but I ran my power wire to my drive side fog light so the only way the toggle would work is if the fogs lights are on

So you cant run high beams with your bar correct?


IMO

 

[maple]

Yeah Just turn on the hi beams

 

[AustinB]

So your fogs stay on with highs?


IMO

 

[Rzrman328]

So your fogs stay on with highs?


IMO

I see where your going....either you confused him or he did the high/fog mod.

 

[AustinB]

So if I were to go with a three prong switch.. Where would I pull my power from inside the cab?

And when I add two to three more switches.. Can I pull power from the same place?


IMO

 

[jwheeler]

So if I were to go with a three prong switch.. Where would I pull my power from inside the cab?

And when I add two to three more switches.. Can I pull power from the same place?


IMO

As long as you are using relays, just tap into the key-on accessory port power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jwheeler]

Any pics of the bar mounted up? Or are you doing the wiring first? You have the same Westin mount I do but I went with four single lights. I would like to see how the led bar looks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AustinB]

Any pics of the bar mounted up? Or are you doing the wiring first? You have the same Westin mount I do but I went with four single lights. I would like to see how the led bar looks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, I'm doing the wiring first. It'll look pretty good either way! I was on the fence between the 4 6" round lights or the bar; the bar is way more light for the money.

As long as you are using relays, just tap into the key-on accessory port power.

Ok so when you say "as long as you have relays", does that mean a relay between the light and the battery..? I don't really need anything extra than what a normal wiring harness would come with?


So in a technicality, I could just pigtail 3 wires off the ignition, and run those to 3 separate switches in the cab, same for the ground...?

Why can't one of you guys just live closer lol.


IMO

 

[AustinB]

I feel like a noob.


IMO

 

[AustinB]

Bump

And where would this key on accessory power be? Are you referring to the 12v plug?


IMO

 

[jwheeler]

Yeah, the 12v power outlet is what I used. It is easy to get to and there is nothing important on that circuit. With that harness you got, you will probably have a wire that is supposed to be tapped into power somewhere, then goes to the switch and then goes to the control side of the relay. That is the circuit to tap into the accessory port power.

The reason I mentioned the relay earlier is because if you just splice into the wiring for a 10A circuit like the 12v power port, then run it to the switch then straight to the light, it will blow the fuse. And might be too high of a draw for the switch also. But on the control side of the relay, the draw is pretty minimal. You should be able to splice in power for three switches, then to three relays.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AustinB]

Thanks jwheeler!

Being that I have already spliced into that for my gps.. Should that cause any issues?


IMO