Intake may have a small leak at broken bolt

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Sirriggs

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Even though the motor runs great. I'm still seeing some white smoke that has a sweet smell ( no anti freeze in system). I don't see any water in the oil and the plugs look fine but what I am thinking is the leak is so small that it getting some water in the chamber that is getting burned off. The broken is located at the front right corner next to water inlet. I tried using reverse drill bits but having no luck. I found a complete kit with all the gaskets and bolts at NAPA for 50$ and that's not bad. I drain the oil to remove and left over mystery oil and replaced with new oil so I did check the oil and it looked good.

Sometimes it will stop at idling but rev the motor a little and it comes back. I'm pretty sure this is my issue.
 

Fast69Mopar

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Even though the motor runs great. I'm still seeing some white smoke that has a sweet smell ( no anti freeze in system). I don't see any water in the oil and the plugs look fine but what I am thinking is the leak is so small that it getting some water in the chamber that is getting burned off. The broken is located at the front right corner next to water inlet. I tried using reverse drill bits but having no luck. I found a complete kit with all the gaskets and bolts at NAPA for 50$ and that's not bad. I drain the oil to remove and left over mystery oil and replaced with new oil so I did check the oil and it looked good.

Sometimes it will stop at idling but rev the motor a little and it comes back. I'm pretty sure this is my issue.
You are more than likely correct that you have a small vacuum leak along with some coolant getting into the cylinder where the broken bolt is located.

You should remove the intake manifold to extract the broken fastener. If the bolt is broken off flush with the cylinder head use a center punch to make a precise location for your drill bit to go. Then, use a small, sharp drill bit and drill it about ½" - ⅝" deep into the broken bolt. Next, drill it a few steps larger until you reach the correct size for your bolt extractor.
 
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Sirriggs

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You are more than likely correct that you have a small vacuum leak along with some coolant getting into the cylinder where the broken bolt is located.

You should remove the intake manifold to extract the broken fastener. If the bolt is broken off flush with the cylinder head use a center punch to make a precise location for your drill bit to go. Then, use a small, sharp drill bit and drill it about ½" - ⅝" deep into the broken bolt. Next, drill it a few steps larger until you reach the correct size for your bolt extractor.
The crazy part is that I didnt put any coolant because I just replaced everything including upgrade to the intake. I dont have any luck with bolt removal. Im sure the other bolts are stressed but lucky they didn't break. It will be a couple of weeks before I can do it so I will update when I do. Thankfully I have a daily driver to get around.:)
 

Bear_Gibson

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The best way would be to weld a nut to the broken bolt. Even if the bolt is flush with the head this can be done. The heat will also help loosen the stuck bolt. If you don't have a small mig welder, find a friend that does. It would require the removal of the intake again. Unless you put all brand new parts that the coolant flows through on the engine, there was likely some residual anti-freeze left in places around the system. Hence the sweet smell.
 
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Sirriggs

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Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a welder. I don't have any antifreeze in the system. I just filled with water to test everything out. First thought maybe smoke was from MM used to break it loose and it did stop for a few times so I did a oil change and noticed it was back. Right now money isn't there but my thinking is this. I will do a once a week few minutes running motor to keep it fresh. Once I get things in order and get some money saved. i will get the parts and take the intake off to see what I need to do. I found a Flux 125 Welder at harbor freight that would be cheap enough to buy ( Again when I get money saved). The last time I did anything with welding was in school at 16 with gas. I will watch some videos to get an idea if this is possible for me to understand and do myself? I pick learning pretty good but cold feet has become a problem in my later years. lol Younger I would try anything without even thinking twice. lol. I will update this thread when this time comes.

Just a quick update. I just checked up on a flux welder at Harbor freight. Cost budget will be small so I have to do with what I can get. Anyway, watched a few videos and it seems pretty simple to operate. The only thing I didn't care for was the splatter. I'm thinking lay down some dry cloth towes and then wet ones over them to catch any splash. I believe taking my time and being careful should make this a simple job. I will be asking a lot of questions when this time comes. It may be a month before I will be able to start this process. This is due to me taking care of wife full time so now I have to find employment again. Thanks

 
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Sirriggs

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Well good news. I start a new job tomorrow so that means I can save up some cash to get back into fixing the truck soon. My goal is to have it back on the road in a couple of months and see how the transmission is working? Its moving around in the yard so far good but wont really know till I can take it for a good run. Once I replace the intake gaskets and new bolts. I should be good for that. I figure if I don't break any others during the removal and cant get the one out. I will have it towed to the shop down the road and drop it off and let him do it. I will have everything prep and ready to cut some of the cost. Im just not having good luck with bolts this round. lol.
 
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Sirriggs

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I find myself second guessing. Even though I'm still going to take the intake off and get that broken bolt removed and new gaskets and bolts.( that's a must) I have been letting her run for 15 minutes or so every few days. The oil pressure runs good and maybe drops down to around 45 lbs once she good and warm. Did a oil check today just to see if anything has shown up and its clean as a whistle. Good and clear. Water level has been good and thermostat is working. The smoke pretty light but I guess has a rich side smell. I wonder if maybe a valve may be a little sticky? I did the Marvin mystery oil since the motor sat for around 4 yrs so it was stuck but not real bad that it broke loose after a overnight cylinders with MM. I did run it a little with what was left in the pan after dumping it and refreshed oil for a few days, then did another oil and filter change to be safe. I pulled and inspected the the rockets ( which were looking good and replaced those gaskets as well with new cap, wires and plugs since it was easier to get to with intake off. I had the heads inspected about a couple of years before it sat and they said there were fine so I just had them go through and clean then I put them back on with new bolts. So the truck has been well maintained before it had to be parked due to some transmission issues I was going to address but wife got sick, so that why it was sitting so long.

Transmission I changed the speed sensor. the sensors in the valve body as well as that spring that was broke. It just had a small slippage after I replaced the spring. I just needed to step away because it was like I was chasing my tail. lol. I'm hoping maybe that problem will settle down once I can get to getting her legal and on the road so I can give her a decent run with a little distance. The motor itself is running good no weird sounds or knocking. Starts on the first turn of the key.

My question here is the smoking from maybe the intake or a sticky valve? I held it about 5 minutes at 1500 rpm to see what would happen and sometimes it get a little more white smoke and sometimes it doesn't. When I first started it a few times it was real smoky but has since died down to a steady small amount of smoke to where you do see it but it on the light side. I have a double tomorrow but will try to get a video of it in the next couple of day's so you guys can see what I am talking about. Thanks
 

ViolentMouse

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Not a sticky valve, if the motor sat for 4 years it's likely the valve stem seals have gone bad and oil is getting down through the valves. Could also have some pitting in the cylinder walls which is letting oil past the rings.

100% post a video, I'm of the old school that says drive her around a bit and get a couple heat cycles in the rings and see if it clears up. if it doesn't go away with heat cycles....it will need to be fixed.
 
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Sirriggs

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I did two videos. One at idle upon starting and the other is holding at 1500 rpm for a couple minutes then back down to idle. I am going to try and get it ready for a road test here in the next few weeks. Bi-weekly pay makes it longer to do. lol. I'm going to do the intake gasket replacement with new bolts before I even think of any road test. Lso sometime when just letting it idle. it doesn't smoke for a while. I'm still new to You Tube post here. Sorry


 
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Sirriggs

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Well just ordered all the gaskets and bolts for the intake so hopefully soon I will have everything and a day off to do it. I did post a couple of videos of the white smoke that I am hoping will disappear once I get everything done. My guess would be since its so small, it burning off before it gets any chance to get into the oil. I only let it run a for maybe about 5 minutes then I shut it down. The oil is clean and clear. crossing my fingers once this done , that problem goes away.
 

Bear_Gibson

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Just something to consider if this doesn't clear it up. The right side heads sometimes crack from the heat of the catalytic converter. Due to the cats proximity to the right side head, when you shut it off the heat travels back up and can sometime cause the head to crack and look like a head gasket leak. This is the reason I put a y pipe where the factory cat was and put a universal cat further back. However, if you have emissions testing in your area this may not be feasible, as it might cause the cat to run a little cooler and fail emissions.
 
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Sirriggs

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I hope its not the head. I had them checked awhile back when I did the intake ( before it sat) and they were good so I had them cleaned and I put back on with new bolts. I have the new parts to do the gasket and bolt change for the intake. I just hope no more break upon taking them out since the only one I have now broken in on the very front right side over the water intake. I will know for sure once I pull the intake and look at the gasket. I have weird hours with my new job so everything will have to be done on days off. I work from 10:30 am to 9 to 10 pm so I would have to get up in the early am hours if I want to do anything on days of work. lol.

I hope it not the heads because I hated going through the process of removing them years ago. It's warming up like normal and not showing any signs of heat issues. When I first started to run the motor after it sat for those years with everything was done. It smoked like hell for a few times of running the motor but that slowly died down to this. I have check the water and its loosing a tiny amount if anything. I checked the oil and nothing so Im putting hope that what I am seeing is what is leaking is being burnt off in one of the cylinder which would be number 1 and maybe 3 if its making it that far but i dont think so or it would be showing up in the oil. We will see.
 
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Sirriggs

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Just something to consider if this doesn't clear it up. The right side heads sometimes crack from the heat of the catalytic converter. Due to the cats proximity to the right side head, when you shut it off the heat travels back up and can sometime cause the head to crack and look like a head gasket leak. This is the reason I put a y pipe where the factory cat was and put a universal cat further back. However, if you have emissions testing in your area this may not be feasible, as it might cause the cat to run a little cooler and fail emissions.
Bear, The reason I don't think its a head issue is that I had them check back before the truck was parked and I didn't have any smoking issues. I caught the head gasket just in time before it went. Since I had everything off at the time. I took them off and had both heads inspected and cleaned. I'm that person who wants to know whats going on and fix it so I can sometimes worry about what may be nothing type of person. The bolt that snapped is right on top of the water port so my thinking at this point is that the leaking is very minimal but enough that maybe its burning off in the number 1 cylinder that may be where my smoking is coming from? That I am not 100% sure. I like your exhaust thought though. I wonder what it would cost to have it changed over to a dual exhaust and would it be of any real benefit? We don't have emission stations here like down south Fl did or does anymore? That was a joke to get free money from people. I would take my old ford and adjust it down to the point it would want to die just to pass and take it back and have them set it back up so it would run fine.
 
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Sirriggs

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Been a little down lately but trying to get myself motivated to taking the intake back out and hopefully not get the broken bolt removed but no more come into play. My thinking is to let the motor fully warm up and then try breaking the remaining bolts loose. Its not the doing the job is hard but motivation just hasn't been there for me. Plus the Ford has been a pain in my butt lately. Just did the wheel bearing twice for some unknown reason, it was loose even though I'm sure I did it right the first time. The u joints had to be replaced. This is due to the excessive rain we have been having that has flooded my dirt road with deep puddles to drive through. Its just been rough lately for me.

Now i do have a question on the front and back gaskets. In the past, I have always done them without any gasket seal other then the strips in all four corners as normal. Seeing they just sit there. Would it be better to run a thin line of gasket sealer on the block to ensure keeping them in place? I have trusted them being dry and trying to make sure I sat the intake in place and haven't really notice any problems but I have read where people prefer to just use sealer and not those thin rubber types. What do you guys think? My goal is in the morning starting the tear down. I have the parts already. Just going to get some black rv sealant and a couple more things. I'm replacing all the bolts with new ones. The plume has already been replaced with the upgrade from Huges. The broken bolt is why I have to do it again. That was my fault. Thanks Guys.

Hey Bear, How is your truck doing? Hopefully its getting better.
 
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Sirriggs

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Well couldn't get myself motivated so I moved the fix to next week when I have two days off in a row. I did do some thinking and I believe I will apply a thin coat of rv on both the front and back to make sure the rubber gaskets don't when I put it back on.
 
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Sirriggs

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Well did manage to get her titled and legal today so I ran here a few times. Transmission slammed into gear a couple of times and the slipping reared it ugly head so yeah transmission will be the next to be addressed but for now intake comes first. Boy she blew some serious white smoke when driven but calmed right down when running slow or idle so it's mostly blow by from broken bolt allowing water to hit cylinder(s). No blue smoke so that good. Was wondering since she sat so long. Great power though. She slid sideways just seeing how the tranny would respond. Now just a matter of working on her when I can and save up for the transmission down the road. I figure if I keep the hours I'm getting and saving one check a month should be ready for transmission in maybe 7 to 8 months down the road. I'm going to do all the brakes to new condition. rear end fluid changes, bearings and such so by the time it goes into tranny shop. She will be good to go. The guy down the road from me is pretty honest ( That's rare) but I may just need a valave body cleaned and adjustments since it does act up every time. We will see but its looking good so far.
 
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