Looking to purchase a new to me truck

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More2LifeThanMPG

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2012
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5.7
So I've been looking at all kinds of different trucks and SUV's lately. I'm looking to down grade out of my current truck. And am only looking to spend about $4000 on the truck itself.
Now the problem stands, what to look for. What is easy to fix and what should I just walk away from if I don't want to spend more than $6000 total. Knowing nothing is perfect and stuff will need to be fixed.
I will be using this truck as my daily driver but will still be used as a weekend tow rig and camping truck. It has to be 4x4, and I've prefer ext cab. As I do have a 5 year old. I plan to keep this truck for at least 5 years so I have a few basics questions.

Realistically how long can the different engines go? (obviously I want the lowest miles, but I'm realistic)
What is the big difference in the engines?
What are some typical problems to look for when inspecting and test driving?
Does anyone have link to a vin break? Or the different year option break downs?

Or is there anyone selling what I'm looking for here?


Sent while day dreaming...
 

idahododgeguy

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between the two gas engines, the 318 and the 360, everything as in the heads and the block is the same, just the 360 has a larger bore. It sounds to me like what you want you would be fine with either engine. Both should do over 200 thousand miles with no problems as long as they are taken care of. As for your other questions I'm not sure what to tell you to look out for so maybe someone else can jump in here. Hope this offers some help to you
 

Bigtman07

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Piqua, Ohio
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2000
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Cummins 5.9
Well it's good to see that you are being realistic. Ok well here is what I can offer from my experience.
Answers to your questions:

Realistically how long can the different engines go? (obviously I want the lowest miles, but I'm realistic)
Miles are only numbers. The real thing is how the truck is maintained. If it has been beaten and abused and not maintained I don't believe you will have great luck. For example. My truck was babied prior to me getting it. Always garaged and all scheduled maint. was done on time. I got mine with 96k on the clock in 2008. Since then I will say I haven't had a garage to keep it so rust is a factor for me. But mechanically all maint. has continued to be done at regular intervals and with quality parts and fluids. I now have 160k and still strong. I have the 360 and do use it to tow large loads. No problems as of yet.

What is the big difference in the engines?
The only real big difference is the balancing and as said before the stroke is longer on the 360. The 360 is more of a low grunt motor and the 318 has some hp numbers. But both should serve you just fine.

What are some typical problems to look for when inspecting and test driving?
This one is hard to explain sometimes because each vehicle is different. Most people will say make sure the trans shifts properly through all the gears. No slipping or anything of the sort. Check the maint records if you can. Check the 4x4. Do it by feel don't just pull the shifter and look for the light. The light doesn't always mean its working right.

Does anyone have link to a vin break? Or the different year option break downs?
As far a the break down of options this is what I can offer for the 2nd generation only. (1994-2001):
1994-1997 The interior is all the same as well as most of the motor components. In 1996 or so the OBD systems would have changed due to OBD2. So more sensors would have been added. The trans changed in 1997 I think. Okie would be able to verify. But they went from an rh to an re. h meaning hydrolic, e maining electric.
1998 was the first year for the newer dash and interior.
1999 Dash changed again slightly with the placement of things like the power plug and the map lights with the compass.
Also in 1999 I believe they changed from a cable and vacuum HVAC box to an electrical one.
1994-1998 Sport models are only cosmetic. They had color matched bumpers and grills. Along with some interior options like compass and heated mirrors.
1999-2001 Sport models have a different front bumper and grill and lights.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
If you have more questions don't be afraid to ask.
 

Okiespaniel

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All I can add to this is that your s/n must mean you're independently wealthy. :) You will notice a substantial drop in mileage from a hemi with mdf to the magnum, and even more if you lift, add big tires, or tow with it. These motors are torquey but hemis or diesels, they aren't.
 
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More2LifeThanMPG

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All I can add to this is that your s/n must mean you're independently wealthy. :) You will notice a substantial drop in mileage from a hemi with mdf to the magnum, and even more if you lift, add big tires, or tow with it. These motors are torquey but hemis or diesels, they aren't.

Ha, not even. I just want to enjoy what I drive. Currently I'm getting about 11 daily. And mileage is what it is, it's an old motor and a v8. Now the v10 would be cool, but yeah no...

Thank you for all the input. I have looked at a few different kinds of trucks and for some reason I'm driven to the ext cab Dodge. I like many others, but in the price range I'm looking for it fits.


Sent while day dreaming...
 
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More2LifeThanMPG

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Comments on some of the trucks I've been looking at?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/3511486407.html
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/3509822927.html
http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/cto/3463538473.html
http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/3489758961.html
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/3494345728.html
And for some reason I keep getting drawn to this one, even though it's a reg cab (and probably not the best option for me)
http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/3452254200.html


Sent while day dreaming...
 
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E-carp

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2001 2500
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V10 Magnum
More2LifeThanMPG said:

I like the black 01 the best out of the bunch you posted.

I'm partial to my V10 though. So much more bang for your buck.

And as you say, there's more to life than MPG :)
 
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More2LifeThanMPG

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I like the black 01 the best out of the bunch you posted.

I'm partial to my V10 though. So much more bang for your buck.

And as you say, there's more to life than MPG :)

Ha, yeah... I've seen a few for sale. Want to go drive one and see the real difference though.


Sent while day dreaming...
 
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More2LifeThanMPG

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http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/3525251002.html

Newest truck, I'm looking at.

Additional information for owner:
Owned it for 5 years, has a 360 with 230k, has a 4" suspension lift, trans shifts smoothly, 4x4 works flawlessly.

Questions:
Is 230k something to be worried about?
What is the major difference in a 2500 an 1500, other an towing or gross weight?



Sent while day dreaming...
 

streak379

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318 5.2
230k on the engine may not be the problem. The problem with anything with that high miles on it is the transmission, and the driveline and suspension that has that many miles on it. With the lift installed and bigger tires with most likely more offset you are looking at wheel bearing etc... The Trans may shift smoothly now but will it in 10k? Did the owner put stop slip in the transmission? Things are likely to start going soon like water pump, axle seals, u joints etc...



One other thing to look at is inside of the throttle body if you can get the owner to let you, dodge trucks are common to have the plenum gaskets go and this leads to loss in power and oil consumption. Pop the intake off, open the throttlebody and look down inside with a flashlight, if its all oily down there it needs the plenum gasket done.
 
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More2LifeThanMPG

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One other thing to look at is inside of the throttle body if you can get the owner to let you, dodge trucks are common to have the plenum gaskets go and this leads to loss in power and oil consumption. Pop the intake off, open the throttlebody and look down inside with a flashlight, if its all oily down there it needs the plenum gasket done.

I will make sure to check that! That is some good information. And yeah he is an older gentleman, and seems he takes pretty good care of his truck. It was mostly used for towing.


Sent while day dreaming...
 

streak379

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Just be careful, towing improperly could be bad for the transmission also, like not disengaging the O/D while towing or extreme uphill climes when temperatures can get to hot and cook the oil.
 
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Good point Streak, that O/D button can be the difference of only going 100 miles or 100 miles. If you need to tow in mountain areas with a heavy load for a long distance you will get the hang of hitting the O/D button and making it a smooth transition without loosing to much MPH.
 
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