Max speed in 4wd high

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Iljo

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I came from a 1500 into my current 2021 PW. No longer do I have that auto 4wd High and I’m either in 2wd or 4wd. Winter is finally here and when I’m on the highway, how fast is everyone going in 4wd before it’s to much? Or does it matter?
Hi. I am RAM owner and a professional truck driver. 2WD and 4WD are having the same breaking power. Is not good to drive faster than you can stop. I am using 4WD only on hills or to catch the hi-way. 2WD will show me where is sleepery to slow down before is too late.
 

LouM

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Mechanically there is no speed limit on 4wd.
Judgement wise every individual has to make that decision for themselves.
As I get a bit older I have slowed down a bit all the time.
On a clean open rural highway I'll do 5 over the limit, town and city
I do the limit. Interstates and other divided highways I'll run 5 or 10 above the limit.
Secondary roads Town and County I will seldom do the limit (55) as it is to fast
for the various road conditions and hazards. Popping over a blind knoll and seeing slow moving farm equipment
taking up the whole road, or blind curves were you can see what or who is coming.
If you can't stop your vehicle in the distance that is visible to you, you are going to damned fast.
I run superb snow tires with studds and have for many years.
Also, I have heard the inane argument for decades that 2wd can stop as good as 4wd.
That is a complete fallacy if the 4wd uses the engine as a brake as too many vehicles do not have
brakes that are evenly balanced and working as well as designed.
In 4wd fewer vehicles will lock up one wheel earlier then the others as the drive train is keeping wheel speed consitant in the drivetrain.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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I live in MT, snows alot. The issue as stated is not speed but stopping and turning.

Given the number of unprepared drivers on the road my suggestion is don't let your confidence override logic. It's not worth it, leave early drive safe, arrive alive
 

EARL99208

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Not exactly related to the thread, but if you do have the “auto 4th” option in your transfer case what would be the doped related to that.

I’m imagining that it would be alright at Highway speeds if so desired?
 

Jdemp

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One time….my wife and I left a remote cabin in my 06 2500…

She decided she wanted to drive…

About 15 minutes on the highway she said “why’s the 4wd light on”?

No issues…

As many other have said I’ve run mine over 55 several times in the last 15 years with no problems. Mostly for scooting down hilly dirt roads near my cabin in WV with some snow on them…
 
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Jdemp

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Many of the highways in Wyoming and across Utah, Nevada, and Southpark and throughout Eastern Colorado have no trees and although it might not snow a lot, it blows it with high winds of over 50 MPH drifting it across the highway in some portions and then entirely dry road in others.

Without any markers besides barbed wire fences one can easily lose a sense of speed and where the shoulder of the road is. It's too easy to get mesmerized on the road and overlook the speed. I keep my cruise control off and focus on the speedometer and highway.

Looking down to see whether or not the 4x4 light is on and engaged would be a distraction. I engage and disengage without looking at the floor shifter. Having it engageView attachment 480110 automatically is a nice feature since I've left my 4x4 engaged several times for long dry road stretches without any issues until I make a slow sharp turn and it bounds up.
Now that’s some bad roads…drive safe out there. It’s mostly slushy stuff here..
 

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Rado

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OK a stupid question. Why can you drive a AWD Auto in the summer and winter , BUT a 4x4 not meant for dry roads ! I assume because of the transfer case ???
I thought I read 4x4 not recommend to use over 55 but I just looked at the manual and it does not recommend switching 2x2 to 4x4 over 55 mph .
But I will still drive slower in snowy weather !
 

retired

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awd drive is completely different than 4 wheel drive. AWD sends power to the wheels that need traction but only when they need it. 4 wd has power all the time. that is the basics. awd is awesome for driving winter roads. I have both and awd is hard to beat. It normally is not nearly as robust as a truck with a transfer case tho...
 

Rado

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awd drive is completely different than 4 wheel drive. AWD sends power to the wheels that need traction but only when they need it. 4 wd has power all the time. that is the basics. awd is awesome for driving winter roads. I have both and awd is hard to beat. It normally is not nearly as robust as a truck with a transfer case tho...
Thank you. You make a lot of sense, :) I will be shopping for another car soon ,And I was thinking AWD to sit next to my RAM 4x4 lol
 

crazy jerry

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supposedly the newer subarus dont blow head gaskets anymore. i dont know. havent owned one in about 25yrs.
but every manufacturer has a awd system. subaru ,toyota, honda ,mercedes , chrysler , ford, gm, nissan. im sure theyre all similar in function. perhaps some better than others
 

LouM

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OK a bunch of misconceptions here;
AWD each wheel has a power connection, depending on the manufacture and the awd system there may be some sophisticated torque management control or a viscous fluid coupling.
Some will advertise a certain torque split in the front to rear some do not, some may have a different limited slip many do not and instead realy on the vehicles abs system to provide a traction or torque equalization factor.

4x4 can manifest itself in many forms;
the main ones would be full time and part time.
Then these can have many configurations.
The old (70's) full time had most commonly Hi Lock, Hi, Neutral, Lo, Lo Lock modes,
there were also a couple of viscus coupling transfer case which attempted to continuously vary the amount of slip between the front and read drives, some of those also had a mechanical lock to over ride the viscous coupling.

Then there are the old style conventional 4wd systems with a gear or chain driven transfer case which is shifted from 2 to 4 wheel drive normally there can be other configurations such as 6x6 or 8x8 when you start getting multiple driven axles on each end of a vehicle.
These would normally send power to the rear axles until shifted into 4wd at which time all axles are powered. These can be controlled manually with a shifter could be just 2wd or 4wd, could have low 4wd, hi 4wd and hi 2wd.
Or you could have multiple shifters to select front or rear drive or both, then one for hi or low.
They can be electrically controlled normally Hi or lo 2 or 4wd.

Then they started throwing in an Auto 4wd there are several variations and I'm not familiar with them all.
The RAM one uses an electronic clutch which sends a varying voltage signal to the clutch to engage the front axle.
This will start to bring power to the front axle then in the 44-44 transfer case once it has at least partially engaged the electronic clutch when the rear output shaft speed exceeds the front output shaft speed the torque applied to the rear shaft will start to drive a ball on a ramp configuration in the transfer case on the clutch pack to increase the ability of the clutch to handle a load by increasing the clamping force on the pack. The electronic part of the clutch can not hold the torque available without the applied pressure from the ball and ramp that is part of the reason why that system always has some rear slip before it engages.
When the RAM system is in Auto 4wd it engages the front axle disconnect so that the entire front axle is ready for power, when the computor decides that you need some front wheel assist it will send a voltage signal to the clutch which will vary in amplitude from several inputs including steering turn angle and perceived slip from the tires which will start the clutch pack to engaging and providing a minimal amount of front wheel assit as the output shaft differential increases the ball ramp will use the torque from the rear to try and apply more clamping force to the clutch pack in an effort to provide 4wd lockup.
This very similar to the so called lock mode which also does the same in that it engages the front axle disconnect and applies a voltage to the clutch it supposedly applies more voltage faster supposedly.
The overide wiring kits that are avilible applied a full 12 volts immediately which did result in a much faster and firmer front axle engagement, even though it is not a full 100% lock as a mechanical system will do.
The better the available rear traction the more torque the front axle will receive, which is the downfall of the system if the rear drive has not or very low traction it will not develpoe the torque to apply the force to drive the ball and ramp to allow the clutch to handle a high torque load.

Enjoy and have a good day
 

Rado

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OK a bunch of misconceptions here;
AWD each wheel has a power connection, depending on the manufacture and the awd system there may be some sophisticated torque management control or a viscous fluid coupling.
Some will advertise a certain torque split in the front to rear some do not, some may have a different limited slip many do not and instead realy on the vehicles abs system to provide a traction or torque equalization factor.

4x4 can manifest itself in many forms;
the main ones would be full time and part time.
Then these can have many configurations.
The old (70's) full time had most commonly Hi Lock, Hi, Neutral, Lo, Lo Lock modes,
there were also a couple of viscus coupling transfer case which attempted to continuously vary the amount of slip between the front and read drives, some of those also had a mechanical lock to over ride the viscous coupling.

Then there are the old style conventional 4wd systems with a gear or chain driven transfer case which is shifted from 2 to 4 wheel drive normally there can be other configurations such as 6x6 or 8x8 when you start getting multiple driven axles on each end of a vehicle.
These would normally send power to the rear axles until shifted into 4wd at which time all axles are powered. These can be controlled manually with a shifter could be just 2wd or 4wd, could have low 4wd, hi 4wd and hi 2wd.
Or you could have multiple shifters to select front or rear drive or both, then one for hi or low.
They can be electrically controlled normally Hi or lo 2 or 4wd.

Then they started throwing in an Auto 4wd there are several variations and I'm not familiar with them all.
The RAM one uses an electronic clutch which sends a varying voltage signal to the clutch to engage the front axle.
This will start to bring power to the front axle then in the 44-44 transfer case once it has at least partially engaged the electronic clutch when the rear output shaft speed exceeds the front output shaft speed the torque applied to the rear shaft will start to drive a ball on a ramp configuration in the transfer case on the clutch pack to increase the ability of the clutch to handle a load by increasing the clamping force on the pack. The electronic part of the clutch can not hold the torque available without the applied pressure from the ball and ramp that is part of the reason why that system always has some rear slip before it engages.
When the RAM system is in Auto 4wd it engages the front axle disconnect so that the entire front axle is ready for power, when the computor decides that you need some front wheel assist it will send a voltage signal to the clutch which will vary in amplitude from several inputs including steering turn angle and perceived slip from the tires which will start the clutch pack to engaging and providing a minimal amount of front wheel assit as the output shaft differential increases the ball ramp will use the torque from the rear to try and apply more clamping force to the clutch pack in an effort to provide 4wd lockup.
This very similar to the so called lock mode which also does the same in that it engages the front axle disconnect and applies a voltage to the clutch it supposedly applies more voltage faster supposedly.
The overide wiring kits that are avilible applied a full 12 volts immediately which did result in a much faster and firmer front axle engagement, even though it is not a full 100% lock as a mechanical system will do.
The better the available rear traction the more torque the front axle will receive, which is the downfall of the system if the rear drive has not or very low traction it will not develpoe the torque to apply the force to drive the ball and ramp to allow the clutch to handle a high torque load.

Enjoy and have a good day
WOW great info as well Thanks
 

sandawilliams

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Friend bought a new Jeep 4 X 4, true system with low/high speed transfer. 25 mpg highway. Next year bought a new Jeep awd. 18 mpg highway. Seems something different in the awd system that causes additional drag? Weight? Both with the 3.6 and same trans, gearing.
 

tom0329

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I love it when people have 4 wheel drive. They can easily get up to highway speed with little consideration; how long will it take them to to get to zero .
 
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