MT or AT tires?

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sbarron

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No. I have trail grapplers on my truck now but the stock tires will go back on in the winter. The skinnier the tire is, the better it is in the snow. This is because they will cut down through the snow to the pavement easier. A wider tire (like my 12.5 inch wide trail grapplers) has so much surface area they will have a harder time getting down to the pavement and basically just drive on top of the snow.

It's mostly about looks really. An AT is more practical for a daily driver. MTs will wear quicker on a daily driver and not ride as nice. I have trail grapplers on mine for 2 reasons. For one its not a daily driver, and for two I have gotten it stuck before and it sucks. Lol

Not quite accurate. Skinnier tires do better in the snow and on ice because they have a smaller footprint resulting in a higher PSI footprint on the ground.

Also, AT, or dedicated winter tires work better in the snow because they are more finely treaded, (or actually siped) actually pick up snow, and create snow-on-snow friction (think about rolling a snowball). Look at a good snow tire as it rolls through snow and you will see it is CAKED in snow. This is opposite of a MT which is designed with a larger footprint (for floatation), and is also designed to shed or throw mud. The tread on mud tires is designed to work like paddles.
 

Burla

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AT for 99% of applications IMO.
 

justin13703

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Most of the problems people have with tires wearing out fast is due to wrong inflation pressure. Contrary to what everyone thinks, the "Max Pressure" rating on the sidewall is not what the tire should be inflated to. Just because the tire says 90 psi Max doesn't mean that you need to run around with your tires filled to 90psi on a Ram 1500 lol.
 

justin13703

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Not quite accurate. Skinnier tires do better in the snow and on ice because they have a smaller footprint resulting in a higher PSI footprint on the ground.

That's pretty much what I was getting at. Skinnier tires put more weight on the contact patch which will help it push through to the road. Even if it doesn't make it to the road, the extra weight on the smaller contact patch helps.
 

AnEngineer

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My dad put highway tires on his suv one time and it was awful in the snow and rain. He put on some cooper all terrains and the difference is night and day. Mud tires on the otherhand look cool but will wear out fast if you have on daily driver
 

JPT

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Most of the problems people have with tires wearing out fast is due to wrong inflation pressure. Contrary to what everyone thinks, the "Max Pressure" rating on the sidewall is not what the tire should be inflated to. Just because the tire says 90 psi Max doesn't mean that you need to run around with your tires filled to 90psi on a Ram 1500 lol.

Correct. And also the manufacture's door rating is also not ideal after changing tires. There are so many factors such as sidewall stiffness, width, added weight like steel bumpers/winches...

From the jeeping world, you can do a chalk test. Draw a thick line across the tread of a tire in chalk. Drive a bit, and see if the wear pattern is even.

More wear in the center = Overinflated
More wear on the sides (both) = Underinflated

This assumes a proper alignment and true rear axle.
 

WulfGang

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I had a problem with over inflation on my last set of tires in the rear.

The centers wore out with almost half an inch on the edges.

So with the new set, if I'm not towing, I run 32lb in the front, and 30lb in the back.
I just looked at them the other day and see very little tread wear.
More importantly, the wear is even.
The front tires from the last set have about half inch on them. Now they just sit. Unused.

The new set have been on almost a year and with I'd say, about, 7K miles.
 

xb1230

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I used to drive 85000 kilometers a year (mostly between September and the March time frame) so I know a thing or 2 about winter rubbers.

There are 2 ways winters rubbers will get through snow,
1. Skinnier tires will have less material to disperse.
2. Plus if the sides are softer, the thread will flex better to release the sticky snow that can get stuck in the thread making the tires slipperier than they should be.

As for Ice there are also 2 ways the tires act better,
1. A rubber compound that remains softer at lower temps
2. And the skinnier factor for weight distribution

MUD tires have the flex to release mud so they are somewhat good in snow for that reason, but they are often wide which gets them to float over think hard snow which can be considered at lower temps as ice.

Cheap tires have softer compound, but it is unstable through the temperature range and become very hard in the cold which is why they suck in icy condition.

Higher quality tire have a medium compound that remains stable even at very low temperatures allowing them to keep flexing and also not loosing their adherence on cold icy surfaces. The addition of abrasives in the compound of winter tires is also very helpful to maintain the adherence to the surface.

Thread design and compound quality will influence the noise level the tire will produce. It is actually the edge of the tire that generates the more noise. The sharper the edges the noisier the tire is, which is why AT or Highway tires have a more rounded edge. The more aggressive and sharper edges on MT tires get them to offer better grip on softer or harsher terrain but generate more noise.

For all of these reasons, I DO NOT use 4 seasons on any vehicle I drive. (And that would not change unless I would live in a state Lower than Virginia, or about).
I have good or fair quality tires for summer use and high quality winter specific tires for the winter.

For Winter tires :

On cars and SUV's I have owned Toyo Observe G02+, or Open Country are the ones I have found to offer best traction and road handling in the worst winter conditions. I have tried GoodYear, Michelin, Bridgestone, Coopers, and Dunlop. The Bridgestone Blizzak are as good as the Toyo's but I have found they wear a little faster. The Toyo have walnut shells in the compound, Yokohama's have nylon strands and I have heard they are also good but have never had the opportunity to try them.
Michelin's I have always find were too hard and not as god on ice as the others but work very well in soft and hard snow. The Michelin's however are usually by far quieter tires than the others. GoodYears had great tires in the F32, but they have changed the compound and even though they behave well, they do not fare as well in icy conditions.


For Summer tires :
AT or MT will depend on what you do. if you do not do any Off-Road driving then it becomes strictly a matter of looks. As for which is best it is a matter of budget. If you do a lot of miles, you may want to consider a better quality tire as the stability of the compound can also a factor in rainy conditions. If you only do commuting, low miles and not a lot of towing you can skim a little here and lower the cost to afford better winter shoes if they are required in your area.

Hope this helps your decision making.
 

justin13703

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My winter tires are a Jeep. I honestly paid half of what a set of winter tires costs, for a perfectly running 4wd jeep. And if someone slides through an intersection and nails me, who gives a **** lol. Plus keeps miles and road salt off my truck. Win win situation.
 

sbarron

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I used to drive 85000 kilometers a year (mostly between September and the March time frame) so I know a thing or 2 about winter rubbers.

There are 2 ways winters rubbers will get through snow,
1. Skinnier tires will have less material to disperse.
2. Plus if the sides are softer, the thread will flex better to release the sticky snow that can get stuck in the thread making the tires slipperier than they should be.

Disagree.

1. Snow crystals greatly increase surface area especially interacting with other ice crystals. Snow tires generally have a large amount of siping, designed to capture snow. Snow tires give you greater traction while holding a little bit of snow.

2. Snow tires in general have a softer compound that All Season tires. This allows the compound to remain flexible at low temperatures, not to release snow. This is why snow tires will destroy themselves in a matter of a few thousand miles on dry pavement.
 
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EWC88

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What you guys think of Atturo Trail Blade MTs? I like the aggressive look, once again this is a DD.
 

slimvela

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All i can say is this, I agree with some about the A/T's being a great all-rounder for a DD. It's all I've had in the first 10yrs of owning my truck. However after taking up the sport of hunting, again, but this time in the High Country of AZ there is a greater need for "bite" that an A/T just couldn't get me, and with to much "chipping" on three brands of A/T. With one set actually needing replacement just due to "chipping" with lots of mileage left on them.

So I finally bit the bullet on a set of "decent M/T's" as compromise based on the experience of a friend and his recommendation. One of the things most people don't realize is, here in AZ is we got all the terrains a tire can handle. Example; took my kids snow sledding this spring one morning and that afternoon we were swimming in the backyard pool. My hunting/scouting trips take me from asphalt, through forest roads laden with "dodge-ball" sized rocks, down jeep trails, shallow river crossings, all in the search for the perfect hunt selections. Duelers, Open Countrys, and LTZ's couldn't take some of the use they were demanded of.

Don't get me wrong, these MT's are not mpg friendly nor are they quiet on the highway or offer that plush ride mama likes. For those trips my Town & Country takes over family hauling duties.

If your rig doesn't warrant MT's, my recommendation would be the LTZ. But I must admit, always wanted to try the Baja ATZ.

Again, this is just my opinion based on my experience of the last 135k miles.
 

427invader

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It's all for the looks and sound. The AT tires will last longer and save gas. They are made for the daily driver that also do some mild dirt road and mountain driving. It has to do with the soft/hard compounds of the tire being made. I have had the same set of BF Goodrich AT KO tires for 8 years and I was just told I need a new tires next March for inspection. My wife's truck has had hers for 6 years and doesn't need new ones for inspection yet. We both drive about 15k miles per year. When I get my new set I will be getting the BF Goodrich AT KO2. They are new, but have excellent reviews and are to last longer. Always do your research to get what is right for you.
 

bcbouy

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for me,m/t all the way.mine's not lifted and i do a lot of off road driving,my last pos bfg at/ta's got me stuck twice launching my boat and had to winch out.i don't even want to get started on all the lifted trucks that god forbid ever got dirty or even wet. and m/t's are the only way to get a 1500 to look like a real truck.:)
 

carl0

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Consider Duratracs and Trail Grapplers. Their aggressiveness is between an AT and MT.
 

frankie

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It's all for the looks and sound. The AT tires will last longer and save gas. They are made for the daily driver that also do some mild dirt road and mountain driving. It has to do with the soft/hard compounds of the tire being made. I have had the same set of BF Goodrich AT KO tires for 8 years and I was just told I need a new tires next March for inspection. My wife's truck has had hers for 6 years and doesn't need new ones for inspection yet. We both drive about 15k miles per year. When I get my new set I will be getting the BF Goodrich AT KO2. They are new, but have excellent reviews and are to last longer. Always do your research to get what is right for you.
Wow. I am seriously considering the KO2's. I have heard of no one getting that type of mileage out of them though. 15k miles/year x 8 years = 120,000 miles. Surely I am misreading your post?
 

breg

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I had a set of Super Swampers on an old Jeep once.
I about went deaf at highway speeds.
 
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