Needing some help before installing mods

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acoffeefiend

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Personally then I’d go with 35s. You might be able to clear 37s, but not by much and then what happens when your suspension is flexed and your steering at full lock?
Very good point.
 

Quick_Shifter

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2016 Lonestar, Crew cab, 4x4, 5.7 hemi







ISo, I've bit the bullet and decided to build up my truck instead of buying a new one (it's cheaper).



1st Mod - will be 4.56 gears (Yukon front with carrier as they're the only ones that make it) Motive in the back with Trutrack diff. Will have it professionally installed.



2nd Mod -I lift (4"superlift with fox 2.5 coilovers, part # K1019FX), black Friday sale. Salesman said a 17" rim would work with a 4.5" Backspace. Just found the install instructions and it says no smaller than a 18" Rim. Install shop says this is due to new steering knuckles.

QUESTION 1: Does anyone have experience with this? Will a 17" tim work, or am I SOL and either get a different lift or get different wheels? Vendor hasn't gotten back to me.



3rd Mod - wheels and tires.... Method 703 bronze 17x9 -12 offset got the BF Goodrich KO2 315/70r17 load E, $347ea, but wondering if I made a mistake and shouldn't swap to 37x12.5x17... inputs welcome



QUESTION 2: I know I'll need to correct the computer for the tires. Will I need to correct for the gearing too? Also, what do I need to do this, Alpha ODB, Diablo support tuner, or other? Not planning on doing bolt on engine mods yet, maybe next year.



4th Mod - Road Armor Stealth pre-runner winch bumper and rear bumper.



5th mods - headlights, tow mirrors, PlastiDip remaining chrome, weathertech floormats.







Thanks for any advice as I'm new to8 in all of this. I'll post pics as I get it done.
With a Zone Lift you can run 17's.
35's are recommended on a 4" but just go 6" as you'll end up there anyway.
Computer correction can be done at most shops with a snap on scan tool
 
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acoffeefiend

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So, I found another forum member who is running a " Superlift and 17*9, -12 offset wheels with 315/70r17 wheels with pics and it works.... also heard back directly from Realtruck, who owns Superlift:
"Hey,
I did hear back from superlift your all clear on your set up. we dont see any issues

Sr. Sales Consultant
4205 SW 38th Ct, Ocala, FL 34474
877-216-5446 [email protected]
m%2FRT_Email%2BSignature%2BImage%2BBlocksRealTruck.png"

So, good to go with the setup I chose.... one less thing to worry about. Still waiting on parts, but have gotten several quotes for install. I was thinking of doing it myself until I saw it involved cutting.
 

DILLIGAF

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The cutting isnt hard. Heck , it takes longer to trace the pattern... lol.
 
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Upgrading to 4.56 gears front and back, it's in the shop now. "The Differential Man" (Colorado Springs) said the back was shimmed so tight from factory that it looked designed to fail at some point. Also, he said there we're no springs in the rear carrier to engage the clutch packs and it wa basically operating as an open carrier, not posi-trac like it's supposed to. Glad I'm upgrading to an Eaton TruTrac. He said he's making a video. I'll link it here when he gets it posted.
 

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Interesting. So how is it the clutch packs are supposed to engage?
 
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Interesting. So how is it the clutch packs are supposed to engage?
Great question.... mechanic said it was working like an open diff and in 40yrs s he'dnever seen it...... now I have the Eaton, so no more worries.
 
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New PPE pan, New Powerstop Z36 brakes and rotors, New 4.56 gears installed. Alpha ODB used to update tire and gear sizes. Next step is the lift.
 

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Found out when I was under the truck that all the air vent plugs for the differentials and for the transfer case were clogged tight. Just ripped them off and replaced with hose and a fuel filter. Shouldn't clog again, but I'll keep an eye on it.
 

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20231223_112101.jpgOld brake pads at 96K miles vs new Powerstop Z36 pads. I'm surprised at how much pad was still left on the old pads. They didn't stop well when towing though. Bigger tires on the new build I figured should get better brakes.
 
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What's the drive like with the new gears?
Still in the break-in period, so can't romp on it. I haven't put on the new tires yet or pulled anything, sp basically revs a little higher when driving is all. I'll post once they're broken in and I can test them out a bit harder.
 

olyelr

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I gotta say, nice to see someone with their priorities straight for once lol. Most just slap a lift and tires on and call it a day, then whine because it dosnt stop as good and they lost all sorts of power. Kudos to you !
 
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I gotta say, nice to see someone with their priorities straight for once lol. Most just slap a lift and tires on and call it a day, then whine because it dosnt stop as good and they lost all sorts of power. Kudos to you !
Thanks. I've been trying to do my homework. I'm also going to email all receipts to the insurance company so if something does happen they'll pay the extra in upgrades.
 

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Coming along good so far.
Pics when the wheels and tires are on!

This spring I'll find out the hard way how 285/75R17 and 3.55 works out.
 

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Coming along good so far.
Pics when the wheels and tires are on!

This spring I'll find out the hard way how 285/75R17 and 3.55 works out.
Shouldnt be terrible, but definitely noticeable. Also, a lot of it depends on the weight of the tire...and that can vary drastically even with the same size tire. Obviously the heavier they are, the more you will feel it. For example, the last set of tires i swapped out on my power wagon were 35x12.5/17 falken wildpeak at3’s. Replaced with toyo open country rt trails, same size. I immediately noticed diminished performance for breaking and acceleration. Not sure on the weight difference.
 
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Bump when coming to a stop fixed??? Mechanic drove it when I had it in for the gear swap and noticed the "bump" when coming to a stop. He said it was hard downshifting into first gear most likely from the valves in the transmission sticking. I hadn't ever changed the trans fluid and figured I'd do it at 100K miles. (Found out later the reccomended change interval is every 60K miles. ) Did a full transmission flush and put in the PPE aftermarket pan that holds an additional 2 qts of trans fluid. He said the more I drove it the better it would get as the new fluid flushed out the valves. It is better than it was, not completely gone, but significantly better than it was.
 
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What's the drive like with the new gears?
4.56 gears installed and have a month on them now. Definitely more oomph if I push the pedal down hard. Still running the same tires as my new wheels haven't come in yet. My original impression was it felt like I was pulling a load when it wasnt. Got Alpha ODB and corrected the gearing and wheel size. Very little noticeable change, but I've gotten used to it. Can't wait.to get the new shoes and lift installed. The powerstop brakes are a huge improvement.
 
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