New member-odd problem

[WAPresley]

Yea, I kinda figured that's why you mentioned the catch pan. Heh. It was bone dry though. Got it all back on, really simple process except for a couple of self-induced irritations from not paying attention. Headed to get the lubricant so I can do a test drive.

 

[johnnyjaws98]

you dont have to have oil comeing out when the gears spin they throw oil out to all the parts are you sure the trans case is not in netural

 

[quietpeen]

And...I just realized I pasted this in the diesel forum. Sorry about that, screens a little cramped on this phone. Maybe a moderator could move it to the second gen forum for me?

i merged the two threads. Next time before starting another thread just pm one of us and we could move it.

 

[WAPresley]

Sorry for the huge delay in replying. Lots of personal happenings pushed everything else aside.
The 4WD is working fine now. The parts themselves seemed to be working fine, I think the fact that it was ran dry for so long may have caused the actuator arm to slip off the collar than bridges the gears so it slipped half-on when I hit a bump and set off the grinding. The first time I dropped it in 4WD after replacing and refilling it starting grinding like I was trying to downshift with no clutch, then a loud thunk like someone had smacked the transmission with a sledge. I was sure something major had broken but I've had no issues since then. At least not related issues. About to replace the water pump but that's pretty straightforward...I hope.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the help, you guys are awesome!

 

[Okiespaniel]

The shifter to go from 2h-4h-neutral-4L is in the floor. Which I thought made it purely mechanical but the mechanic said vacuum. I'm starting to think my problem is the caliber of mechanics I'm coming across. But like I said I'm a novice, I still make noises to describe the problem, so I gotta trust them.
If its a problem with the vacuum system (which they claim to have ruled out) the tricky part is why hitting a bump sets it off.

What you have is a combination of a mechanical and vacum system. When you shift the truck in or out of 4wd, you are stfiting the transfer case. When you shift, a vacum switch on top of your t-case allows engine vacum to move a diaphram actuator, sliding a sliding collar over to join the inner and outer passenger side axle, thus locking the axle in.

After reading your posts, it appears you pull over and shut off the truck? or do you let it idle? Does the problem go away immediatly or take any time ...say 30 seconds to a minute or more? Does your 4wd light come on when this happens? It should because when the shaft on the vacum actuator moves it completes a circuit in an electrical switch. Does the light even flicker?

Internet diagnosis is a bit dicey anyway but this information may help.


EDIT...so its fixed....farkin' newbies LMAO! <mods please don't take offense!

 

[BaileysOffroad]

Well...i know you said you got this working now so great...a couple things from reading the pages....you should have had a decent amount of fluid come out....5 oz or so when you pulled the cad..

Due to it being dry its very likely that the splines on the drivers side axle are rounded over a bit...this isnt super obvious but a really close look and youll see...if you have trouble shifting or you hear that grinding and then thunk its probably due to this...i'd wanna pull the axle and file down the burrs or round overs....should work nice and smooth then..

here is a pic of my axle not long ago that needed filing.



you can see here there isnt a lot of play for the shift collar to move over so any burrs or rounding over will make it hard for it get over there.





Oh yeah....and you got real lucky...those bolts like to break...i had one twist off on me when i replace my cad...had to drill it out and pull out the trusty tap set....it was the bottom left hole in the pic up there.

 

[Austin On The Coast]

i have a 2000 5.9 with slide in 4 wheel, and it has the low and high, etc. were you 4 bying when it statred doing it?