Pulling a seized 318 with AT and 4WD

[skinnedknuckles]

I'm pulling my seized 318 from my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with AT and 4WD. Because the engine is seized I can't remove all 4 torque converter bolts so I believe I have to pull the transmission with the engine. I've removed the radiators, coolers, top front cross-member, front bumper and both drive shafts from the transfer case. I've unbolted the transmission from the transfer case which is resting on my hydraulic jack after removing all supporting crossmembers.

The problem I'm having is that the engine is set so far back that my hoist chain can't lift from the midpoint of the engine without scraping against the cowl. Then having the transmission hanging off the back of the engine makes the imbalance problem even worse. As I lift, it seems like the engine is just tipping back rather than lifting up and I don't see how I'm gonna clear the motor mounts over the top of the chassis brackets that hold them.

What's the best way to handle this situation?

Maybe if I remove that huge intake manifold I could lower my hoist boom under the cowl and get a lifting point on the engine further back. Is that a good idea?

Should I start with the transfer case at normal height and lower it after clearing the motor mounts or should I lower it from the start?

How do I get the transmission to separate from the transfer case after removing all the nuts?

Also, does it help to remove the motor mounts from the block after the hoist is bearing the weight of the engine?

 

[diymirage]

Wouldn't you be able to unbolt the transmission and pull the engine apart ?

The input shaft of the transmission slides into the torque converter but is not bolted onto it, just a keyed shaft that is slide into it

So as long as you can move the engine forward far enough to disengage that shaft I would expect you can pull it while leaving the transmission in place

 

[skinnedknuckles]

I read online that separating the transmission from the engine without removing the torque converter bolts is possible but not recommended until both have been removed from the truck so you can pull them straight apart without imposing bending forces between them. Otherwise the torque converter can be bent and loose its perpendicular shaft alignment. I suppose I could pull it apart and replace the torque converter but I was hoping to avoid that extra cost.

 

[diymirage]

Can't say I have heard that before, but it does sound plausible

 

[Hagar1]

Take all the bolts out of the bell housing, the torque convertor will stay with the engine. The only concern is that you might damage the front pump seal when you do that. They come apart just fine when pulled that way.

 

[skinnedknuckles]

I did what you suggested and the engine came out just fine with the torque converter on the flex plate. Now I'm preparing to install the replacement engine but I'm having trouble getting the torque converter fully seated on the transmission input shaft. I replaced the pump seal and bushing and everything seemed to go back together perfectly. I can spin the torque converter and get one "click" but then it won't go beyond that. It seems like the stator gear inside the torque converter keeps falling down and out of concentric alignment with the drive hub. If so I have two ideas.
1. Perhaps if I stood the transmission up on end so the stator is laying horizontally I could get things to line up and go on.
2. You may think this crazy but my other idea is to add AT fluid until the torque converter is almost full and then put it in my freezer overnight so that the AT fluid become thick like honey or molasses. My thought is that if the AT fluid was thick enough, the stator would move with the torque converter housing as I spin it without immediately falling down as I suspect it's doing now. Am I crazy?

 

[Dean2]

Use #1, as that is the way 99% of people do it ifthey are having your issue, but it requires two guys. There are a ton of YouTube videos that will help.

I can't see #2 working and the potential for a huge mess on top of it.

 

[skinnedknuckles]

Thanks, standing it up on end did the trick. It only took a few minutes of wiggling until the drive hub dropped down into the oil pump. Now there is plenty of clearance such that the torque converter bolts it will pull it back out just a fraction of an inch which is how it's supposed to be I would guess.