New parts installed (ICON, Core 4x4, Hellwig, SuspensionMaxx)

[ram1500rsm]

What is this table?

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Load index table from the North America Tire Rim association.
There is a pdf from Toyo that shows a lot of tire sizes and their load index spec.
Google Toyo TRA table. Thats the one i use the most.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS!!!!!!

Great resource

 

[MidwestExpress]

Talk to icon. They should be able to recommend a different valving to suite your needs. I havent done it myself yet but the rear shocks without RES should be a lot easier to dissasemble and rebuild. Either that or sell the 2.0's and upgrade to 2.5's if you dont want to thinker with it too much.

Yeah, I'm not too inclined to tinker with it just yet. I'm gonna ride it out as is for a good bit, it's nothing to really complain about - I don't want to come off sounding like I'm dissatisfied - I'd just rate my front end as a "10" and my rear end as an "8.5" on my current satisfaction level. The jump from 2.0 to 2.5 rear shocks is like an extra 1k for our trucks - something I may consider come rebuild time, but likely not any sooner.

 

[MidwestExpress]

Check the TRA table. it seems you dont need 50psi in those 285/65/20 LT KO2's?
45psi will match 2600lbs of the factory P rated ones, remove 10% cause they're mounted on a truck so really all you need is tires to support about 2340lbs each.

285/65/20 single at 40psi gives you 2390lbs, 2600lbs at 45psi. You should be fine with all 4 at 40psi.

Good info, thanks. As it's been dropping in temperature here, I've been letting the PSI lower naturally and not adding any. I'm around 46-47 cold at the moment, and may just let them get down to lower 40s and see how it goes.

 

[MidwestExpress]

I’ve got suspension envy: I want some Icons too. Definitely in the plans for later on.

What bumper are you running? New bumpers will probably be the next thing I do.


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I know the voices in my head aren’t real, but man, do they ever come up with some great ideas.

ADD Stealth, part #F503352480103. I'll be honest, it's very expensive. Really nicely constructed though, it should/better last the life of the truck. I'm hoping to get the matching rear bumper next year.

 

[Michael]

ADD Stealth, part #F503352480103. I'll be honest, it's very expensive. Really nicely constructed though, it should/better last the life of the truck. I'm hoping to get the matching rear bumper next year.

That’s one of the bumpers I’ve been looking at. It’s good to see what it looks like on a truck.


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I know the voices in my head aren’t real, but man, do they ever come up with some great ideas.

 

[MidwestExpress]

I'm gonna find a day next month for some maintenance. I'm planning on doing some suspension re greasing while I'm messing with other things as well. I'm just wondering - Icon has poly bushings on the UCAs and Core 4x4 has poly bushings on the end links & fixed end of the trackbar, how come Icon says to loosen the bolt prior to greasing the UCAs and Core 4x4 says no need to loosen the bolt on their poly's when adding grease? I'm just wondering what some of your opinions are on the differences there. Thanks for any input.

 

[kurek]

The rear end, while improved, isn't as "perfect" for me. Could be just the 2.5 on the front vs. 2.0 in the rear? Or, the feel of the ICON springs compared to the stock springs? The rear end is just bit more stiff and doesn't feel as controlled as the front, it dances just a tad bit. Possibly track bar bracket help? IDK. .

I have ~2" lift springs on mine (with stock track bar) and felt like the rear was never quite right, too - then installed that track bar drop bracket from Carli. Problem solved! I was best able to feel the difference when taking a familar curved freeway-to-freeway exchange that has a rough expansion joint in the middle of the curve - when I was able to take that corner the first time and not feel that little wiggle from the back I knew it was fixed.

I don't try to talk people into spending money in general if it's not going to actually solve a problem but I believe putting the track bar back nearly parallel with the axle like stock was a major improvement, and at 75 bucks and a quick install not even very painful.

 

[hodge-xj]

I have ~2" lift springs on mine (with stock track bar) and felt like the rear was never quite right, too - then installed that track bar drop bracket from Carli. Problem solved! I was best able to feel the difference when taking a familar curved freeway-to-freeway exchange that has a rough expansion joint in the middle of the curve - when I was able to take that corner the first time and not feel that little wiggle from the back I knew it was fixed.

I don't try to talk people into spending money in general if it's not going to actually solve a problem but I believe putting the track bar back nearly parallel with the axle like stock was a major improvement, and at 75 bucks and a quick install not even very painful.

I agree with Kurek on this one. After lifting my rear up almost 2" the Track Bar and extended rear sway links really made noticeable differences for the better. These trucks seem very sensitive to geometry changes, tho each vehicle is different. Ram1500 and Revit both run without Track Bar relocations and have no adverse issues, but I do believe that they both gained about 1" with their setups due to added weight. Considering you're running light competitively speaking it's worth a try, especially if you'll already be under the truck. I'm not one to spend others money un necessarily but for less than $100 I think it's a worthy upgrade.

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[ram1500rsm]

I'm gonna find a day next month for some maintenance. I'm planning on doing some suspension re greasing while I'm messing with other things as well. I'm just wondering - Icon has poly bushings on the UCAs and Core 4x4 has poly bushings on the end links & fixed end of the trackbar, how come Icon says to loosen the bolt prior to greasing the UCAs and Core 4x4 says no need to loosen the bolt on their poly's when adding grease? I'm just wondering what some of your opinions are on the differences there. Thanks for any input.

That's more likely because of the the way the bushings are designed to work and be greased inside their mounts. The Core4x4 ones use some sort of tappered poly bushing in their UCA that allows the bushing to flex a little on the Y axis and more likelly when you pump grease the grease can crawl through the tapper ? but it'll better to confirm with them just in case. I know the JJ's don't have any issues with being greased while mounted. The Icon bushings in the front UCA's are flat and if you don't loosen up the bolts the grease wouldn't have a place to go other than to compress the bushing and possible destroy it.
TC explains better than me , same concept
https://www.chaosfab.com/PDF/install/accessories/69000.pdf

JBA's for example have a different poly bushings too where i'd guess they have placed ports in the bushing or the bushing mount for the grease to run through without having to loosen anything.

Also curious as to what torque settings are you using on your Core4x4 arms ?
It seems this dude did the video to show people you don't want to overtorque the poly bushing side to factory specs and he was recommending 135ft/lbs. I don't know if he works for Core4x4 or no but it seems people were coming to him to inquire about the settings. I think Core4x4 should clarify so everybody has the right settings.

 

[ram1500rsm]

I agree with Kurek on this one. After lifting my rear up almost 2" the Track Bar and extended rear sway links really made noticeable differences for the better. These trucks seem very sensitive to geometry changes, tho each vehicle is different. Ram1500 and Revit both run without Track Bar relocations and have no adverse issues, but I do believe that they both gained about 1" with their setups due to added weight. Considering you're running light competitively speaking it's worth a try, especially if you'll already be under the truck. I'm not one to spend others money un necessarily but for less than $100 I think it's a worthy upgrade.

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Every little thing helps when we consider how flimsy some of our rear parts are made, especifically rear trackbar, rear control arms, rear sway bar, rear sway bar links. Unreal the truck is rated for 10k lbs towing and you can flex your factory trackbar wiggling it with 2 fingers or and you can hold it in your hands with one lol, is like trying to hold an axel together with welded spaghettis , add big tires to the mix and the extra weight on each corner won't help the cause.

My trackbar is not flat but i don't have any handling issues because of it, i will have one if i was lifted at least 2" though.

2020-03-15_06-17-09 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

 

[azcoyote]

That bumper looks great! Can you squeeze a winch behind it?

 

[MidwestExpress]

That's more likely because of the the way the bushings are designed to work and be greased inside their mounts. The Core4x4 ones use some sort of tappered poly bushing in their UCA that allows the bushing to flex a little on the Y axis and more likelly when you pump grease the grease can crawl through the tapper ? but it'll better to confirm with them just in case. I know the JJ's don't have any issues with being greased while mounted. The Icon bushings in the front UCA's are flat and if you don't loosen up the bolts the grease wouldn't have a place to go other than to compress the bushing and possible destroy it.
TC explains better than me , same concept
https://www.chaosfab.com/PDF/install/accessories/69000.pdf

JBA's for example have a different poly bushings too where i'd guess they have placed ports in the bushing or the bushing mount for the grease to run through without having to loosen anything.

Also curious as to what torque settings are you using on your Core4x4 arms ?
It seems this dude did the video to show people you don't want to overtorque the bushing side to factory specs and he was recommending 135ft/lbs. I don't know if he works for Core4x4 or no but it seems people were coming to him to inquire about the settings. I think Core4x4 should clarify so everybody has the right settings.

Thanks. I've seen the Icon & TC videos/how to's specifically saying to loosen the bolts, and they make sense. It just seems odd for Core 4x4 bushings to not need to be loosened up the same way. But, maybe it is a different shaped/tapered bushing like you mentioned. I guess it's safest to just stick with what each manufacturer says regarding this.

I still have stock rear arms, I just have Core 4x4 track bar and SB end links. I've seen that video before as well regarding their arms. It's tough that the aftermarket companies don't come out with recommended torque specs, generally, they just say torque to factory spec - then finding factory torque spec can be a hell of a search and guessing game sometimes. I'm sure it's all about liabilities, lawyers, $$, etc.

 

[MidwestExpress]

That bumper looks great! Can you squeeze a winch behind it?

They do have a winch ready bumper option, part #F502932450103.

 

[joshuaeb09]

I agree with Kurek on this one. After lifting my rear up almost 2" the Track Bar and extended rear sway links really made noticeable differences for the better. These trucks seem very sensitive to geometry changes, tho each vehicle is different. Ram1500 and Revit both run without Track Bar relocations and have no adverse issues, but I do believe that they both gained about 1" with their setups due to added weight. Considering you're running light competitively speaking it's worth a try, especially if you'll already be under the truck. I'm not one to spend others money un necessarily but for less than $100 I think it's a worthy upgrade.

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I second that. I did the Carli Bracket as well and I noticed the difference over uneven roads. This was before I was running my King's so I can't say how things would compare now.

 

[Moparfanatic21]

Every little thing helps when we consider how flimsy some of our rear parts are made, especifically rear trackbar, rear control arms, rear sway bar, rear sway bar links. Unreal the truck is rated for 10k lbs towing and you can flex your factory trackbar wiggling it with 2 fingers or and you can hold it in your hands with one lol, is like trying to hold an axel together with welded spaghettis , add big tires to the mix and the extra weight on each corner won't help the cause.

My trackbar is not flat but i don't have any handling issues because of it, i will have one if i was lifted at least 2" though.

2020-03-15_06-17-09 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

What's up with the hose clamps on the springs? Lol

 

[ram1500rsm]

What's up with the hose clamps on the springs? Lol

Poor man's coil spring retainers. Did them 2 years ago when i was trying longer than stock shocks. Not really needed with my setup but is an old habit and it doesn't hurt anything to have them.

 

[MidwestExpress]

Alright guys, looking for some guidance here on what I may have done wrong and any ideas for fixes. I greased my UCAs yesterday and now I got the squeaks! They weren't squeaking before I messed with them, I was just trying to follow maintenance by regreasing. So, here's what I did:

1. Loosened the frame bolts. The truck was still on the ground at the time.
2. Lifted front end up and got the tires off the ground.
3. Added grease to the Delta Joint & poly bushings. I pumped it in until the grease starting coming out the sides of the bushings. I used the same grease types that I did at original install, which had no squeaks previously.
4. Put the truck back on the ground.
5. Tightened frame bolts. It did seem harder to get to torque spec than 1st install, also I used a different torque wrench than before.
6. Drove around and listened to my new family of mice living in my front suspension over large bumps.

In between 5 & 6, I did actually raise it back up again to rotate the tires but don't think that would be a problem as they (UCAs) were torqued with the truck on the ground.

I sent ICON a message with this info today and am waiting on response for what they recommend I try from here. Is it possible that I over greased them and thats causing them to squeak? Should I try bleeding some grease out through the zerks? Maybe this torque wrench isn't calibrated well and I over tightened them?

Also, the truck seems to pull to the right now - this shouldn't mess with alignment right?

I appreciate any feedback.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Alright guys, looking for some guidance here on what I may have done wrong and any ideas for fixes. I greased my UCAs yesterday and now I got the squeaks! They weren't squeaking before I messed with them, I was just trying to follow maintenance by regreasing. So, here's what I did:

1. Loosened the frame bolts. The truck was still on the ground at the time.
2. Lifted front end up and got the tires off the ground.
3. Added grease to the Delta Joint & poly bushings. I pumped it in until the grease starting coming out the sides of the bushings. I used the same grease types that I did at original install, which had no squeaks previously.
4. Put the truck back on the ground.
5. Tightened frame bolts. It did seem harder to get to torque spec than 1st install, also I used a different torque wrench than before.
6. Drove around and listened to my new family of mice living in my front suspension over large bumps.

In between 5 & 6, I did actually raise it back up again to rotate the tires but don't think that would be a problem as they (UCAs) were torqued with the truck on the ground.

I sent ICON a message with this info today and am waiting on response for what they recommend I try from here. Is it possible that I over greased them and thats causing them to squeak? Should I try bleeding some grease out through the zerks? Maybe this torque wrench isn't calibrated well and I over tightened them?

Also, the truck seems to pull to the right now - this shouldn't mess with alignment right?

I appreciate any feedback.

Could possibly be the torque wrench is inaccurate if it’s an off brand. Loosen the bolts again, drive back and forth 5-10feet a few times and then re torque

 

[ram1500rsm]

Loosen the UCA bolts and jump on the bumper then retorque Aligment shouldnt have changed so it's weird the truck is pulling to the right. could be also the wrench is messed up and you ended up with more torque as quick shifter has also indicated.