New Trans Issue Has Me Stumped

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TheEnder

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It appears that the truck is losing communication with the trans, wild guess due to extremely harsh reverse engagement and this could also explain why the solenoid buzz is so prolonged and at different pitches as it’s not getting enough voltage to shift right

Now the question is...where is it losing communication at? It’s going into limp home mode with essentially no trans communication (it acts like the transmission fuse is pulled) after it shifts into 2nd. I’m guessing about the communication thing because of reverse engaging extremely hard.

I can get it out of limp home mode with a simple key off and key on and it seems to be (i’m not testing it as i don’t feel like having trans guts on the floor) but as long as it stays in 1st it’s fine.

I had the P0882 code when the trans was pulled, but i assumed it was because there wasn’t a trans in the truck and that it had the battery unhooked for around 1-2 weeks.


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Does anyone know where the trans ground points are? I completely forgot and i don’t think i have my ground straps installed on the trans. Turns out the other codes i have aside from P0882 are all related to the original P0882 code.e1ab174035cc9975f3e4595ddceac614.jpg


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Hemi395

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Does anyone know where the trans ground points are? I completely forgot and i don’t think i have my ground straps installed on the trans. Turns out the other codes i have aside from P0882 are all related to the original P0882 code.e1ab174035cc9975f3e4595ddceac614.jpg


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Let me look on alldatadiy....
 

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So looking at the ground distribution for my truck, the grounds for the PCM directly are on the fender supports. One is right next to the PCM on the passengers side (might have to pull the air box to get to it), and the other is right next to the battery/PDC. Other grounds to check would be the the ground on the block which is on the driver's side, the main chassis ground in the driver's wheel well, and the ground straps that are on the back of the block that is clipped to a heat shield for the passengers side cat. Keep in mind this is all for the 5.7 wiring harness.

Hopefully the 4.7 wiring isn't too different but that at least gives you a starting point...
 
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So looking at the ground distribution for my truck, the grounds for the PCM directly are on the fender supports. One is right next to the PCM on the passengers side (might have to pull the air box to get to it), and the other is right next to the battery/PDC. Other grounds to check would be the the ground on the block which is on the driver's side, the main chassis ground in the driver's wheel well, and the ground straps that are on the back of the block that is clipped to a heat shield for the passengers side cat. Keep in mind this is all for the 5.7 wiring harness.

Hopefully the 4.7 wiring isn't too different but that at least gives you a starting point...

I checked all the grounds, and opened up the trans and replaced the solenoid pack just to be sure (there was a white solenoid connector on a 5 check ball plate, not sure why.)

I’m still getting P0882 with P0846 and P0871, nothing has changed.


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The transmission is shifting into 2nd at a higher than normal RPM with the second after the shift (which is fine mind you) and it immediately goes into limp home mode with all 3 codes listed above.

What gives? I have no “Low Fluid Pressure” codes, and it doesn’t “slip”, it just goes directly into 4th and won’t come out.


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Looking at those codes, it sounds like something in the PDC or wiring to the PDC is messed up. This is the code setting criteria for the PO882 which I think is causing the other 2.

Set Condition: This DTC is set when less than 3.0 volts are present at the transmission control relay output circuits at the Powertrain Control Module when the PCM is energizing the relay.
0c294fb87e22a5976c7cd4141b505df1.gif
 
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Looking at those codes, it sounds like something in the PDC or wiring to the PDC is messed up. This is the code setting criteria for the PO882 which I think is causing the other 2.

Set Condition: This DTC is set when less than 3.0 volts are present at the transmission control relay output circuits at the Powertrain Control Module when the PCM is energizing the relay.
0c294fb87e22a5976c7cd4141b505df1.gif

Nevermind. The entire trans went out. I added fluid and started it up, ran around the block and it went into limp mode as per usual. Only this time when i went to go check the fluid, smoke poured out.

I’m up to here with this truck, and i’m 1 more ****** away from getting rid of it for good. It’s turned from an amazing vehicle to something conjured up from hell itself.

I’m sorry if i sound harsh, but i’ve worked on this truck my entire weekend to no avail and it’s still having issues non stop.


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Nevermind. The entire trans went out. I added fluid and started it up, ran around the block and it went into limp mode as per usual. Only this time when i went to go check the fluid, smoke poured out.

I’m up to here with this truck, and i’m 1 more ****** away from getting rid of it for good. It’s turned from an amazing vehicle to something conjured up from hell itself.

I’m sorry if i sound harsh, but i’ve worked on this truck my entire weekend to no avail and it’s still having issues non stop.


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Damn man im sorry to hear that.....
 
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Damn man im sorry to hear that.....

Woah, okay. I’m sorry about screeching yesterday, i was extremely frustrated.

I contacted the people that sold me the transmission on eBay telling them exactly what happened but i didn’t tell them that i had preformed a TCM flash on it, (which i did, but i didn’t feel like it needed to be mentioned as it was extremely obvious).

They emailed me back this morning, essentially saying “**** you you’re not getting your money back because you didn’t preform a TCM flash, and now your warranty is voided”.

So now what? My truck isn’t running anymore, i sent them an email saying that a TCM reflash was performed close to a month ago when it was installed and i’m waiting for a response back. I wasted 1800$ on the pile of crap, and if i don’t get a new trans or atleast some money back some heads are going to crack.


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I’m going to create a separate thread on this, be right back.


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Didn’t feel like creating another thread as i’m exhausted of doing it, but, i put a gasket + accumulator set into my valve body yesterday/last night and waited till today to do the quicklearn, and when i did the quicklearn the transmission started to scream like a dying cat for around 2 seconds and then i slammed it into park.

The Quicklearn procedure raised up my engine RPMs to 1500, then told me to shift into OD, in which i did and this happened.

Did it cause any damage? I think i might know what the whining was and i really wish i didn’t. Truck is driving okay right now, although the shifts are very soft.

Trans fluid is still fine, and at a good level.


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Didn’t feel like creating another thread as i’m exhausted of doing it, but, i put a gasket + accumulator set into my valve body yesterday/last night and waited till today to do the quicklearn, and when i did the quicklearn the transmission started to scream like a dying cat for around 2 seconds and then i slammed it into park.

The Quicklearn procedure raised up my engine RPMs to 1500, then told me to shift into OD, in which i did and this happened.

Did it cause any damage? I think i might know what the whining was and i really wish i didn’t. Truck is driving okay right now, although the shifts are very soft.

Trans fluid is still fine, and at a good level.


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Does it shift fine now? I doubt you did any damage if it is ...
 
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Does it shift fine now? I doubt you did any damage if it is ...

It shifts exactly like the other one did. Flares every shift after 4th because of the torque converters very very very stupid programming, and once it gets hot (which is way improved, the new trans stays pretty cool) it shifts pretty slow, by that i mean it’s very soft during the shifts, but other than that it’s really nice.

edit: i’m pretty sure my battery voltage has to do with most of this, according to AlfaOBD the PCM is requesting around 14.1-14.3 volts and the alternator is only able to put out around 13.4-12.9 (and it fluctuates heavily. in drive because of the solenoids pulsating it goes from around 13.1 to 11.5 in 5 second intervals.)


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I have the new alternator i just haven’t gotten around to installing it as a bunch of family stuff has come up.


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I have the new alternator i just haven’t gotten around to installing it as a bunch of family stuff has come up.


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I hear ya. The good news is its a really easy swap...
 
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I hear ya. The good news is its a really easy swap...

Yeah luckily, one of the many reasons i love how easy it is to work on. I mean, the transmission was so incredibly easy to remove that i was legitimately surprised. Not very complicated.


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