New Trans Issue Has Me Stumped

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TheEnder

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Hey everyone, i know it’s late, but i just got back from a drive with some interesting findings on my truck, that i know 100% isn’t normal. But it may help explain a few other symptoms i’m having.

The truck at WOT shifts from 1st to 2nd without problem, but when letting off the gas the truck seems to shift incredibly slowly, i.e the shifts take forever to complete and are very soft. You can’t tel it’s shifting, the RPMs don’t drop like they do in every other car i’ve personally driven.

To explain this better, its like it shifts into 4th ok, then it slowly shifts into 5th and 6th. You can’t tell it’s shifting into 5th and 6th, only way i can explain this is like how a CVT equipped vehicle gently lowers the RPM to whatever the lowest RPM it can get it down into.


First thing that came into my head was that since both the new trans and old trans have had heat issues, that maybe the cooler is clogged and not allowing enough fluid to get back into the trans at WOT and therefore making it shift strange as there’s not enough fluid to shift with, but that’d send a Transmission Fluid Low Pressure code, would it not?

It seems that both my old and new transmissions don’t like to shift well at all during normal take offs etc. Both shifted from 1-2 well, 2-4 pretty nicely but as soon as it enters OD they start to flare, with the 5-6 shift (on both) being the strangest of them all, with the RPMs dropping incredibly fast, stop dropping all together and then they contribute to drop by around 200 RPM or so. This has me stumped as i don’t know what could cause BOTH transmissions to do this when the new trans is built up and had a relearn done.

The flares don’t really bother me as much as i’m aware of how badly these trucks are programmed and that it’s the torque converter locking and unlocking, but still.

I forgot to add, but this truck seems to love to run the trans temps as high as it can without there being a trans valve anywhere from atleast where i can see. The old one was the same way. Once it’s up to Chrysler’s “””operating temperature””” it’s absolutely horrible to drive and is one step above unusable. If this (truly) how badly they’re programmed to be with normal usage then someone at the chrysler tech department needs to be shot.

I’ve checked over and over again to see if there’s any codes which there aren’t, i’ve done pretty much everything i can think of but i still haven’t been able to sort this one issue out. I forgot but there was a post on here from someone with an overheating engine that had a transmission that would only reach around 131 normally, and hit a max of 151 in the summer heat, when we had the EXACT same trucks. Mine reached 175°F when it’s 65 outside!

Anyways, if anyone could help me figure this out, it’d be much appreciated. I’m gonna try to jack the truck up tomorrow and warm up the trans to see if the lines are cold or hot to get rid of my hunch...


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Hemi395

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There's definitely something stopping it from cooling somewhere. My 65 will run 120-140 in the summer and will struggle to hit 100 in the winter, but that's with no TBV. It might hit 155-160 while towing my camper in the summer. The one time I saw it hit 175 was towing my camper up the Ike Gauntlet....

If there's no TBV it's got to be the cooler thats clogged. Since the trans cooler is integral to the ac condenser, I would just get an aftermarket trans cooler and just bypass the factory cooler.

As for the other issues, I can say that going from 4th to 5th in mine isn't exactly what I was call a "firm" shift but there's definitely no delay or revving as it shifts. Keep in mind I have a custom tune tho....

Question, does TH mode change it at all? Or shifting manually from 4th to 5th?
 
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TheEnder

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There's definitely something stopping it from cooling somewhere. My 65 will run 120-140 in the summer and will struggle to hit 100 in the winter, but that's with no TBV. It might hit 155-160 while towing my camper in the summer. The one time I saw it hit 175 was towing my camper up the Ike Gauntlet....

If there's no TBV it's got to be the cooler thats clogged. Since the trans cooler is integral to the ac condenser, I would just get an aftermarket trans cooler and just bypass the factory cooler.

As for the other issues, I can say that going from 4th to 5th in mine isn't exactly what I was call a "firm" shift but there's definitely no delay or revving as it shifts. Keep in mind I have a custom tune tho....

Question, does TH mode change it at all? Or shifting manually from 4th to 5th?

Tow Haul does change it a bit, it makes the truck stay in 2nd until 2500-3000 and then it’ll shift into 4th with the converter unlocked and then lock it up a few seconds after the shift. 5th happens at around 2000, it doesn’t enter 6th.

I’m going to get a new trans cooler as this is getting quite old.


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Hemi395

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Tow Haul does change it a bit, it makes the truck stay in 2nd until 2500-3000 and then it’ll shift into 4th with the converter unlocked and then lock it up a few seconds after the shift. 5th happens at around 2000, it doesn’t enter 6th.

I’m going to get a new trans cooler as this is getting quite old.


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Yeah I bet lol
 
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TheEnder

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I found the issue, the trans rebuilder didn’t screw in the filter all the way. Which explains why it shifted brilliantly when it was first installed and went down in quality after....also, regarding the overheating issue, the return cooler line was bent..


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Hemi395

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I found the issue, the trans rebuilder didn’t screw in the filter all the way. Which explains why it shifted brilliantly when it was first installed and went down in quality after....also, regarding the overheating issue, the return cooler line was bent..


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Wow you're lucky that was the worst that happened[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

Loose spin on filters have been known to grenade RFEs......

And great find on the return line, that would definitely cause an overheating issue and could potentially cause line pressure issues ......
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Wow you're lucky that was the worst that happened[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

Loose spin on filters have been known to grenade RFEs......

And great find on the return line, that would definitely cause an overheating issue and could potentially cause line pressure issues ......

Exactly! Happy it’s been found and fixed! Crazy right?


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Hemi395

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Side note, I've been looking at the 68RFE trans lines for the Cummins and they are much bigger than the 65RFE lines. Wonder if there's a way to adapt them for our trucks to get even more cooling.....
 

Burla

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ender do you not have the metal thread upgrade buddy? damn lucky, we had members grenade their trans off a simple flush because of the filter threads.
 
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TheEnder

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ender do you not have the metal thread upgrade buddy? damn lucky, we had members grenade their trans off a simple flush because of the filter threads.

Next level lucky, i’m surprised it didn’t throw a low pressure code with how loose it was. I purchased the metal adapter a while ago, and i put it on when i did the filter change. I don’t know how it didn’t explode..


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TheEnder

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Side note, I've been looking at the 68RFE trans lines for the Cummins and they are much bigger than the 65RFE lines. Wonder if there's a way to adapt them for our trucks to get even more cooling.....

I’m wondering that too, would offer far superior cooling. Imagine a RFEs top operating temp being at 120°F..


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Wild one

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Side note, I've been looking at the 68RFE trans lines for the Cummins and they are much bigger than the 65RFE lines. Wonder if there's a way to adapt them for our trucks to get even more cooling.....

Easy to do with stepped compression fittings.might take some digging to find them big enough to connect that size of tubing though.
 
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TheEnder

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Easy to do with stepped compression fittings.might take some digging to find them big enough to connect that size of tubing though.

Interesting, i think it’d be worth the look. Anything to cool the RFE down as much as possible is a good thing for it, i’ve noticed across the board with all RFEs that over 150°F they start to shift strange and act weird..

I seriously don’t know why the operating temperature of this transmission is 170-180 according to the ram owners manual when pretty much all RFEs run 150°F at the hottest in the summer heat. Last year in the winter the hottest my old transmission would get was around 115 or so. Crazy i know, but it was cold last winter.


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Hemi395

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If it's really cold here in the winter, my trans temp wont hit triple digits until I've been driving for a while or the truck is under a load...
 
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TheEnder

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If it's really cold here in the winter, my trans temp wont hit triple digits until I've been driving for a while or the truck is under a load...

Yeah, exactly. Some days it wouldn’t even get over 95, and last winter since i live close to Yosemite it got close to being in the 10s here, and the truck stayed in the 80s when driving overnight at the coldest. I really liked that. My Chrysler 300 on the other hand with no trans cooler will run at 190 all the time though..


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Hemi395

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Interesting, i think it’d be worth the look. Anything to cool the RFE down as much as possible is a good thing for it, i’ve noticed across the board with all RFEs that over 150°F they start to shift strange and act weird..

I seriously don’t know why the operating temperature of this transmission is 170-180 according to the ram owners manual when pretty much all RFEs run 150°F at the hottest in the summer heat. Last year in the winter the hottest my old transmission would get was around 115 or so. Crazy i know, but it was cold last winter.


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Theoretically since the 68RFE and the 545/65RFE are similar in form, the 68 lines should bolt right up to the trans itself and run up to the front very similarly to the 65 lines. The cooler would be where some fabrication would most likely be needed....
 
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TheEnder

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Hi everyone, hope y’all are having a nice night, or day, i don’t know where y’all are at, lol.

Anyways, hopped in the truck tonight to go get milk, got down the street and truck revved unusually high for the 1-2 shift, it shifted, and everything was good (or so i thought.)

Got down the road, felt like i was driving over a huge pothole and BAM, it went into limp home mode with the CEL screaming.

Checked the codes, and oh boy, it has a **** ton.

Codes:

P0882: TCM Power Input Signal Low (this was twice)
P0846: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance (i got this twice as well)
P0871: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance.

The weird thing is that i turned the truck off and back on again and it came out of limp home mode, no issues, but still did the same thing. Only this time it was at a stop.

The solenoids were buzzing and making a tap sound in Drive and in Park when this was occurring, only thing that comes to mind is that the tranny rebuilders ****** something up, but that really doesn’t make much sense to me. Putting it in drive or reverse resulted in a massive bang into gear and the truck nearly jumping off the ground.....

I had this happen before with my old trans, but i never got the TCM Power Low fault code, which worries me. It was the wrong SP on the wrong VB that caused the fluid errors.

I put 12 quarts in of fluid, and when i checked it at first it was fine and full. Now the dipstick looks strange when i check it, like there’s waves in it if that makes sense. The cold holes are not filled of fluid at 100°F.


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