No Crank. Never ending 2011 5.7L RAM issues

[dchapma1957]

Remington 870 is ready!

Received new WIN. Programmed just fine. Programmed new Key with it. New key and new WIN can Lock / Unlock / Panic from the FOB. Still flashing red light and will not crank.

She's Dead Jim!

Reluctantly I am going to have to send it to the dealer. I don't know of any independent shops that can handle this. What are my options? Firestone? PepBoys? And I will have to have it towed - although I do have AAA so that shouldn't be too bad.

I just hate being beat after all this work - AND this truck did run! So WTF happened?

 

[DILLIGAF]

Get on High Performance Ram and ask for a specialist Ram shop in your area. thats the only way to find an actual shop not filled with morons.

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[aszumilo]

Some quick searching led me to these. Might help.

Dead Pedal - Code P0121

Just wanted to share a dead pedal experience. One March 19, 2018, during a return trip from Crescent City pulling my travel trailer, I exerienced the dead pedal syndrome about fifteen times in the last 35 miles to home. Each event lasted about 20 seconds (sometimes longer). It was a slow 35 miles...

mopar1973man.com

Typically when the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code is present with the "Dead Pedal" its going to be APPS sensor issue. The bast way to test is to have a live data tool and data log both Engine Load and the APPS sensor together in graph form. The engine load reports the amount of fuel given to the engine. So if the APPS and the Engine Load drop together its a APPS sensor issue. If the APPS sensor stays high and the engine load drops then it could be an ECM issue.

No Crank No Start Ignition Run Circuit – Diagnostic Network

This vehicle had an intermittent no crank/no start condition. No codes were stored in the PCM. There was a U1197-00 code in the Radio Frequency Hub (RFH). This module handles the anti-theft key fob functions. The code indicates that the Secur2 Seed Response from the PCM was not received. The DTC...

diag.net

This vehicle had an intermittent no crank/no start condition. No codes were stored in the PCM. There was a U1197-00 code in the Radio Frequency Hub (RFH). This module handles the anti-theft key fob functions. The code indicates that the Secur2 Seed Response from the PCM was not received. The DTC flow chart calls for reprogramming the PCM if there are no stored PCM codes. diag.net/file/fpo4bsrt9… Here is a power distribution diagram. This problem can actually be caused by s defective run/start relay, or a problem with the run/start bus bar. Both of these are located in the underhood fuse box near the battery. The relay can be replaced without replacing the fuse diag.net/file/fpo4bsrt9… diag.net/file/f5i98mnrc… The testlight in the photograph is pointing to fuse 157 that feeds power to the PCM with the start button in the run mode. Check for 12v at this fuse during the no start. If there is no power here, the PCM will not have ignition run power and cannot send the seed request that the RFH hub is looking for. Taping on the relay may restore operation. This will probably not resolve an issue with bus bar in the fuse box. The relay coil is energized by a high side driver in the BCM when the ignition is in "run".. This problem did not set any DTCs in the PCM . It did not cause a loss of PCM communication. If you try to program the PCM while this failure is present, you will receive a message from the programming device that states: " according to the PCM the ignition is not in the run mode". Also check for codes in other modules. Both the ABS and air bag modules set codes indicating that there was a fault with the ignition run circuit. Hope this helps. Thanks for reading.

[SOLVED] U1197 Code: How To Fix Security Seed Response Issue

To solve the U1197 fault code, check the wiring and connections of the CAN bus system and repair or replace any damaged components. Steps to fix are listed inside.

carmodnerd.com

• The automobile fault code U1197 can be caused by various factors.
• One of the main causes is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) programming.
• Other causes may include faulty wiring, damaged sensors, malfunctioning actuators, or a defective PCM.
• Additionally, a low battery voltage or a poor electrical connection can also trigger this fault code.
• It is important to diagnose and fix the root cause of the problem to prevent further damage to the vehicle.

 

[dchapma1957]

Thanks everyone for the detailed info! I performed most if not all of these things. I verified power at the PCM, 5volt to sensors,, etc.

Frankly, I have checked so many things over the last few days I have brain fog. I had it towed to a shop that was recommended by a friend. I called them, explained the whole situation and then called AAA. I hate being beaten by any machine, (been in technical service all my career), but without proper knowledge and a bit of experience I am just shooting in the dark.

I am expecting $1,000 or more to fix it.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Ive helped a few people out that live around me off the local FB RAM page. Try to get one of those as well.

But you're kind of far... lol... Heck My buddy works at Bumper to Bumper and literally just drops my name to people to save stealersh1te visits. And I get free beer out of the deal !

 

[jws123]

Thanks everyone for the detailed info! I performed most if not all of these things. I verified power at the PCM, 5volt to sensors,, etc.

Frankly, I have checked so many things over the last few days I have brain fog. I had it towed to a shop that was recommended by a friend. I called them, explained the whole situation and then called AAA. I hate being beaten by any machine, (been in technical service all my career), but without proper knowledge and a bit of experience I am just shooting in the dark.

I am expecting $1,000 or more to fix it.

I had some weird **** happen once just try this Take jumper cables use 1 lead Ground from battery to the starter/bell housing and see if she turns over had similar problem on 2 rams and this is how i tested it wound up running a new ground wire from bell housing/starter to frame on both trucks as i didnt feel like messing with other wires.

 

[dchapma1957]

I had some weird **** happen once just try this Take jumper cables use 1 lead Ground from battery to the starter/bell housing and see if she turns over had similar problem on 2 rams and this is how i tested it wound up running a new ground wire from bell housing/starter to frame on both trucks as i didnt feel like messing with other wires.

Thanks for that. This is not a gound issue. I have verified all grounds are properly clean and connected. This truck is locked out via the Anti-Theft BS.

 

[turkeybird56]

Thanks everyone for the detailed info! I performed most if not all of these things. I verified power at the PCM, 5volt to sensors,, etc.

Frankly, I have checked so many things over the last few days I have brain fog. I had it towed to a shop that was recommended by a friend. I called them, explained the whole situation and then called AAA. I hate being beaten by any machine, (been in technical service all my career), but without proper knowledge and a bit of experience I am just shooting in the dark.

I am expecting $1,000 or more to fix it.

Well hopefully in the end U get the desired results, in a timely manner and yer weight not drop too much ie., lightening of the wallet.

Hopefully good quality shop vehicle is at and you be happier in the end.

 

[Barr2255]

Still no word from the shop about your truck?

 

[dchapma1957]

Still no word from the shop about your truck?

No. They were closed over the weekends so no word yet.

 

[DC Tradesman]

It sounds like you have done everything you can do. I tend to think it’s an intermittent sensor. They are the hardest to troubleshoot since they read good than not. I would recommend an engine speed sensor wire to the sensor. Maybe a wire chafing, look at all the harness contact points.
Good luck.

 

[dakotakid846]

Had something similar on a 2011 1500 a few years back. Started stalled, started stalled and then went no crank/no start. Random dash warnings for service trailer brake system, service 4WD system and a CEL for P0882. Also had no PRNDL on the dash.

Starter would crank when jumped at the fuse and the ASD relay in the TIPM would go crazy clicking on/off. Did find connector 1 on the PCM was wet and ultimately was the problem. Ironically, just a few weeks before while under the hood for a unrelated issue, I noticed how water would drip off the windshield cowling and onto an AC line and run towards the firewall and would drop perfectly onto that connector. I had installed a zip tie onto that AC line to act as a drip loop before the connector but guess it was too late.

$1000 later for the computer and a couple hundred for a new connector to be spliced on the that main harness.

Speaking of the TIPM, did u pull and check the Auto shut down relay? I forgot it's location exactly but it's the same as all the other relays.

 

[rosco11]

Hi Guys,

I thought it best to start a dedicated topic on this as my symptoms went from bad to worse.

I thibk everyone knows I just did the cam/lifter repair. When all was said and done I drove it around and thought all was well. It cut out on me once on the road, and once in my driveway but started right back up.

Yesterday I drove it to do some errands, it ran fine. Went to go somewhere last night and it would not even crank. So checking things this morning, poking and prodding It started and quit about 20 seconds later. Eventually it started, I let it warm up, took it for a short spin and it ran fine.

Came back and now it will not crank no matter what I do.
If I bypass the relay with a wire it cranks.
If I have the key in the run position and bypass the relay with a wire it cranks but does not start.

Things I have done today:
Battery voltage is at 12.6. I tried my battery charger in START mode too, same result, no crank.
Cleaned battery terminals.
Checked all the connectors on the TIPM, actually reseated them and cleaned all the contacts with Deoxit.
Swapped the starter relay in the TIPM with another one.
Removed, cleaned and reconnected the +12V feed to the TIPM.
Removed, disassembled and cleaned the WIN ignition key module.
Installed new battery in the Key Fob.
Reseated all 4 connectors to the PCM.
Checked ground wires at battery, on drivers side fender and the back of the heads.
Verified that the tramsmission position shows correctly on the dash. Tried starting it in Neutral as well.
Then it started raining - of course! Arghhhh.

Tomorrow I am going to crawl under it and look / reseat any connector I can find, check for grounds on the block, etc.

The old saying at work was "connections, connections, connections! And I think that holds true here but I am about at my wits end with this truck.

It makes no sense that a crank sensor, or cam sensor went bad at this particulay moment in time - it is more logical that I disturbed something while doing the engine workl. I tried to be careful, even zip tying the harnesses up and out of the way so I didn't snag on them. And the truck did run.

I cranked it a lot trying to start it when I had the rags in the intake issue, and I only disturbed the left head cleaning up that situation so it seems I should look in that area.

Picture of dash warning lights, ignition in run position before trying to start.

View attachment 552058

I'll keep this topic updated as I try different things and continue the search tomorrow. When I starts and runs, it runs great!

check your fuel pressure with a guage. You should have pressure when you turn the key on for 3 seconds. No pressure, no start. Pressure drops when driving, engine stops. With the key in the on position and jumping the starter relay, if it does not start, it is spark or fuel. Check your fuel pressure when you turn the key. it should jump to close to 50lbs.

Fun fact about that year. The fuel pressure relay is built into the fuse box under the hood. You can not replace it. You have to replace the entire fuse block assembly. It is out of stock and discontinued. Not to fear, it is so common a problem there is actually a company that rebuilds the fuse block entirely. It runs about 600 bucks. Along with the fuel pump relay there are other issues that happen to that box because of heat. \

 

[dchapma1957]

check your fuel pressure with a guage. You should have pressure when you turn the key on for 3 seconds. No pressure, no start. Pressure drops when driving, engine stops. With the key in the on position and jumping the starter relay, if it does not start, it is spark or fuel. Check your fuel pressure when you turn the key. it should jump to close to 50lbs.

Fun fact about that year. The fuel pressure relay is built into the fuse box under the hood. You can not replace it. You have to replace the entire fuse block assembly. It is out of stock and discontinued. Not to fear, it is so common a problem there is actually a company that rebuilds the fuse block entirely. It runs about 600 bucks. Along with the fuel pump relay there are other issues that happen to that box because of heat. \

If it starts it runs. No Crank, flashing security light on dash. This isn't a fuel or spark issuee - it is locked out by the anti theft BS. I already have the fuel pump relay bypass (MOPAR Recall) installed. But it still could be the TIPM.

I'm done messing with it.

 

[dakotakid846]

I understand the frustration..spent several days scouring the internet and trying various things to get it figured out. Sadly had to throw in the towel myself. Luckily my shop is pretty well versed in Dodges..had in up and running in 2 days.

Keep us posted..surely your experiences will help someone out down the road.

 

[dchapma1957]

I understand the frustration..spent several days scouring the internet and trying various things to get it figured out. Sadly had to throw in the towel myself. Luckily my shop is pretty well versed in Dodges..had in up and running in 2 days.

Keep us posted..surely your experiences will help someone out down the road.

I will. Spoke to the shop late yesterday and they were looking at it. I spent my career troubleshooting very complex industrial equipment and it pains me to have to take it somewhere. But, in the Florida humidity, with limited theory of operation knowledge I was done. BAd enough I did the whole engine in my driveway. Now with Milton coming, it is probably safer at the shop and I won't have a tree fall on it - that would be my luck.

Another thing is I spent money of tools for the job. Compression tester, Leakdown tester, and fresh torque wrenches as mine were 25 years old. I returned the harmonic balancer puller as it did not fit. Now I got these tools I will never use again. Heck, I have a bunch left over from when I restored my GTO 25 years ago.

I bought OBDLink MX+ and the AlphaOBD software, which is cool, but it didn't help me with this security lockout.

I will post the resolution once I get it back.

 

[Barr2255]

Still no word from the shop? How did you fair during the hurricane? Prayers are with you and everyone affected by the recent hurricanes.

 

[dchapma1957]

Still no word from the shop? How did you fair during the hurricane? Prayers are with you and everyone affected by the recent hurricanes.

Shop said they were waiting on UPS to deliver a new PCM, that was Monday. I will call them later today or have the wife drive me over there this afternoon to talk face to face.

The hurricane passed South of me. We got some wind and a lot of rain but no flooding and I never lost power so I fared quite well. I was prepared with tarps on the ready, whole house generator ready to go and 20 gallons of gas but didn't need any of it, thank God.

 

[dchapma1957]

I understand the frustration..spent several days scouring the internet and trying various things to get it figured out. Sadly had to throw in the towel myself. Luckily my shop is pretty well versed in Dodges..had in up and running in 2 days.

Keep us posted..surely your experiences will help someone out down the road.

What did your issue end up being?

 

[dchapma1957]

check your fuel pressure with a guage. You should have pressure when you turn the key on for 3 seconds. No pressure, no start. Pressure drops when driving, engine stops. With the key in the on position and jumping the starter relay, if it does not start, it is spark or fuel. Check your fuel pressure when you turn the key. it should jump to close to 50lbs.

Fun fact about that year. The fuel pressure relay is built into the fuse box under the hood. You can not replace it. You have to replace the entire fuse block assembly. It is out of stock and discontinued. Not to fear, it is so common a problem there is actually a company that rebuilds the fuse block entirely. It runs about 600 bucks. Along with the fuel pump relay there are other issues that happen to that box because of heat. \

That is a know issue and there is a relay bypass kit available, which my truck already has.