No Crank No start intermittent

[duneop]

Looking for some advice here. I have a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500. Every now and then (Usually once a week) it just won't start. I crank it over and the lights all come on, the blower etc... But no crank. I figured it was going to be a WIN module issue so I replaced that. But it still keeps on happening. Anyone have any ideas on what else it could be? If I leave the key in the on position for a little bit and then turn it it seems to bring it back to life, and it will eventually crank and start. I'm sure there is a super logical conclusion to troubleshoot here. But I am currently at a loss.
When this happens remote start won't work either and if I try it just says system fault on the cluster. Last time I took it into the shop the mechanic said there were no stored codes on the Autel. And we were looking for remote start or starting error codes.
With it being so intermittent I don't know if I'll be able to find a smoking gun anytime soon.

Truck has 200,000 km. or 125000 miles.

Thanks.

 

[GRKN]

Key fob? As simple as dead key battery possibly or the whole fob is going bad. My dad had the dealer program another fob when he bought his 2016 and that one is going bad now, does similar things

 

[duneop]

I should have also included that I not only changed but checked the voltage on both key fobs, and switching out the key fob was one of the first things I did. Thanks for the suggestion though!

 

[tron67j]

Hard to diagnose from description, but could be the starter itself is not engaging, maybe a bad solenoid switch, loose or corroded wires, starter itself bad, key receiver bad are a few ideas. Do you hear a click when you try to start and it fails? Have you tried, while key is in, putting vehicle in gear and back out? Could be a bad sensor telling vehicle it is in gear when it is not.

 

[brianw0048]

No codes? In-tank fuel pump failing?

 

[tron67j]

See this

Diagnosing a no-crank + no-start issue

Truck is a '13 QC with Hemi. Battery is brand new and healthy. Truck won't start or even turn over with either of my key fobs. No clicks, fuel pump doesn't seem to prime, nothing. Fobs have new batteries installed. Interior and exterior lights work but that's it. No radio or HVAC with key in run...

www.ramforum.com

 

[duneop]

Hard to diagnose from description, but could be the starter itself is not engaging, maybe a bad solenoid switch, loose or corroded wires, starter itself bad, key receiver bad are a few ideas. Do you hear a click when you try to start and it fails? Have you tried, while key is in, putting vehicle in gear and back out? Could be a bad sensor telling vehicle it is in gear when it is not.

It doesnt even attempt to start when this happens. No crank at all. I've tried wiggling the shifter. But not putting it in and out of gear. I will give it a try. Thanks.

 

[duneop]

No codes? In-tank fuel pump failing?

It hadn't had a fuel pump changed out yet. So maybe. I'll try to listen for it.

 

[duneop]

See this

Diagnosing a no-crank + no-start issue

Truck is a '13 QC with Hemi. Battery is brand new and healthy. Truck won't start or even turn over with either of my key fobs. No clicks, fuel pump doesn't seem to prime, nothing. Fobs have new batteries installed. Interior and exterior lights work but that's it. No radio or HVAC with key in run...

www.ramforum.com

Yup, switching out the WIN module or ignition module was the first thing in the parts cannon I threw at it. But thanks.

 

[jws123]

I have had this happen to me replaced starter 3 times Run a ground wire from the starter/bell housing to the battery neg you can use jumper cables see if it fires up every time. This is what fixed another 2010 on here ground issue also clean the 1 little wire that slides onto the starter known to corrode and have bad connection

 

[duneop]

I have had this happen to me replaced starter 3 times Run a ground wire from the starter/bell housing to the battery neg you can use jumper cables see if it fires up every time. This is what fixed another 2010 on here ground issue also clean the 1 little wire that slides onto the starter known to corrode and have bad connection

You know it's funny because when I ask mechanics about the starter ground they say "your block is the ground". That's two separate mechanics that have dismissed a starter ground. Does the starter ground to the block and then is there a block ground somewhere or something? I will definitely keep this in mind. It kind of felt like a weak ground to me, being so intermittent and everything. I will look into this further for sure.

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

Looking for some advice here. I have a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500. Every now and then (Usually once a week) it just won't start. I crank it over and the lights all come on, the blower etc... But no crank. I figured it was going to be a WIN module issue so I replaced that. But it still keeps on happening. Anyone have any ideas on what else it could be? If I leave the key in the on position for a little bit and then turn it it seems to bring it back to life, and it will eventually crank and start. I'm sure there is a super logical conclusion to troubleshoot here. But I am currently at a loss.
When this happens remote start won't work either and if I try it just says system fault on the cluster. Last time I took it into the shop the mechanic said there were no stored codes on the Autel. And we were looking for remote start or starting error codes.
With it being so intermittent I don't know if I'll be able to find a smoking gun anytime soon.

Truck has 200,000 km. or 125000 miles.

Thanks.

Are you positive your battery is in very good condition, and that the battery terminals and cable connectors are clean and tight?

Have you removed the cable connectors, cleaned them with a battery terminal brush, and then cleaned the battery posts?

 

[duneop]

Are you positive your battery is in very good condition, and that the battery terminals and cable connectors are clean and tight?

Have you removed the cable connectors, cleaned them with a battery terminal brush, and then cleaned the battery posts?

Someone else off forum had mentioned this to me as well. And I suspect the battery may be a little weak, but hasn't had any trouble starting ad of yet. Definitely a battery test is going to be top of the list. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Scooter123456]

Any update on this?

 

[duneop]

Yes. Believe it or not it was a lose ground on the negative battery terminal. The truck has roughly 200,000km and so the front shocks arnt the best. So it was vibrating the negative battery terminal, just enough that it wasn't making the best connection. That wasn't the whole fix either though. The negative looked solid, it had some anti-corrosion spray on it that didn't appear to be disturbed. But what was happening was the terminal was getting loose and then that spray was leaking down inside making it worse. When the ground was snugged back up the issue was partly fixed. The battery was still in dire straights because it had probably been deep discharged too many times. In the cold Canadian winter going from Friday after work and cranking over on Monday morning she was rolling over very slowly. The battery tested fine at the local shop but after showing them the video of it starting on Monday they agreed to warranty the battery. It's been fine ever since then. Hope that helps.

 

[Scooter123456]

I'm glad you figured it out! My truck has been doing something very similar. The dealer has it now and they claim it's the starter, covered under warranty. We'll see. I'm not overly optimistic, but at least I won't have to worry about a starter for a while.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If it's been in the cold, Deep discharging of the battery in cold winter temps generally causes very little to no permanent damage. It's the warmer temps where permanent sulfating of the plates occur. Charge your battery up, it's probably fine ..depending on it's age and any previous battery issues. A deeply discharged battery can take a LONG time to charge up ...@10A (a safe charge amps).

Just last week I left some lights on a vehicle. It took 14 hours to completely charge a very low battery ...using an Optima Charger which charges around 10A ..but adds a 'conditioning' stage at the end which probably was 2-3 hours. I wasn't sitting there nursing it, but periodically checking. But shows ya kind of worst-case times.

 

[duneop]

I'm glad you figured it out! My truck has been doing something very similar. The dealer has it now and they claim it's the starter, covered under warranty. We'll see. I'm not overly optimistic, but at least I won't have to worry about a starter for a while.

Hope it's similar. I have to say the last time the dealer told me my starter was bad it ended up being it's first TIPM though.

 

[duneop]

If it's been in the cold, Deep discharging of the battery in cold winter temps generally causes very little to no permanent damage. It's the warmer temps where permanent sulfating of the plates occur. Charge your battery up, it's probably fine ..depending on it's age and any previous battery issues. A deeply discharged battery can take a LONG time to charge up ...@10A (a safe charge amps).

Just last week I left some lights on a vehicle. It took 14 hours to completely charge a very low battery ...using an Optima Charger which charges around 10A ..but adds a 'conditioning' stage at the end which probably was 2-3 hours. I wasn't sitting there nursing it, but periodically checking. But shows ya kind of worst-case times.

Thanks. The battery was replaced under warranty. It was less than a year old. But charging alone wasn't fixing it. It had intermittent issues. Like every 6th start there would be very little power etc... it was weird and we didn't troubleshoot it too long. Because I could replace it under warranty.

 

[RamDiver]

I'm a big fan of bi-annual cleaning and a light coating of dielectric grease.

This also results in a torque check every 6 months and can save endless grief on our rolling computers.

.