No Crank no start

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6.7 Cummins
I’ve got a 2012 2500 Cummins, yesterday it started up fine. I put a new headliner in today and then went to fire it up nothing. First thought was a dead battery hooked the jump pack up and jumper cabled. Still nothing. Everything stays on when a try to crank all I hear is a click from a little box with a plastic leaver by the steering column I have no idea what it is and I can’t even seem to find a diagram to help me out. I checked the signal wire while trying to crank and had nothing at the wire. Checked a few related fused and they were all good even swapped relays nothing. Any thoughts?
 

Ken226

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I’ve got a 2012 2500 Cummins, yesterday it started up fine. I put a new headliner in today and then went to fire it up nothing. First thought was a dead battery hooked the jump pack up and jumper cabled. Still nothing. Everything stays on when a try to crank all I hear is a click from a little box with a plastic leaver by the steering column I have no idea what it is and I can’t even seem to find a diagram to help me out. I checked the signal wire while trying to crank and had nothing at the wire. Checked a few related fused and they were all good even swapped relays nothing. Any thoughts?

I'm a little confused. Crank no start means: Engine is cranking but is not starting.


So, putting your statements together, i got:, "went to fire it up and nothing" "Dead battery" and "try to crank all I hear is click". All implies that the starter is NOT rotating the engine, which would make it a No crank, no start?

Can you clarify?


What signal wire?
 
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I'm a little confused. Crank no start means: Engine is cranking but is not starting.


So, putting your statements together, i got:, "went to fire it up and nothing" "Dead battery" and "try to crank all I hear is click". All implies that the starter is NOT rotating the engine, which would make it a No crank, no start?

Can you clarify?


What signal wire?
Jeez I’m sorry been a long day, NO crank no start. And the signal wore to the starter is not getting power when the key os in the crank position
 

Ken226

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Jeez I’m sorry been a long day, NO crank no start. And the signal wore to the starter is not getting power when the key os in the crank position

Ok.

You may need to find the service manual and wiring diagrams for your truck from somewhere like AllDataDIY.

Anything at the starter relay, inside the TIPM? Does it click when you try to crank the engine?

If the starter relay does not click, check the ASD relay. It supplies power to your injectors, coils, starter relay, etc.

If the starter relay DOES click, then whack the starter with a hammer handle and try again. If whackin it with a hammer handle works, go buy a starter.

if whacking it doesn't work, check continuity between the starter relay terminal in the TIPM and the starter.

You can also jump the inner terminals that the starter relay plugs into and directly activate the starter. I have a starter relay that I cut open and wired with a momentary switch, as a diagnostic to for cranking from under the hood.
 
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Ok.

You may need to find the service manual and wiring diagrams for your truck from somewhere like AllDataDIY.

Anything at the starter relay, inside the TIPM? Does it click when you try to crank the engine?

If the starter relay does not click, check the ASD relay. It supplies power to your injectors, coils, starter relay, etc.

If the starter relay DOES click, then whack the starter with a hammer handle and try again. If whackin it with a hammer handle works, go buy a starter.

if whacking it doesn't work, check continuity between the starter relay terminal in the TIPM and the starter.

You can also jump the inner terminals that the starter relay plugs into and directly activate the starter. I have a starter relay that I cut open and wired with a momentary switch, as a diagnostic to for cranking from under the hood.
I seem to have power to all relays that have to se with the starter and they click while cranking as the should. I have power everywhere beside the signal wire to the starter, there is also this plastic leaver under my shifter that clicks when I try to crank it. It’s hot to the touch. What it is?
 

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Ken226

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I believe that it is the brake shift interlock. The lever, I think, is the override.

That solenoid requires you to push the brake pedal before you can shift out of park.

The lever should override it, so that in case of a power loss, you can shift into neutral to tow/push it off the highway.

Does the wiring look like it's been modified? It should only energize when you step on the brake pedal. It's hard to tell in the pic, but it kinda looks like electrical tape, like someone may have rewired to to stay energized. People love defeating safety devices.

If you checked properly, and the starter relay IS indeed closing the load circuit when you crank, then this is unlikely to be related. However, if you didn't check properly and the starter relay is NOT closing, then......

Did you try jumping the starter relay terminals like I said?
 
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Ken226

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I seem to have power to all relays that have to se with the starter and they click while cranking as the should. I have power everywhere beside the signal wire to the starter, there is also this plastic leaver under my shifter that clicks when I try to crank it. It’s hot to the touch. What it is?

If the starter relay is closing the circuit, but there is still no power at the starter solenoid, then there is a problem with these circuit between the starter solenoid and the relay.

Double check that you are actually not getting power to the starter solenoid while cranking. Unplug the connectors under the tipm and Inspect for wiring / connector damage and corrosion.

Get a multimeter, test light and wiring diagram and load test the tipm to starter solenoid circuit. Either a connector is damage or corroded, or a squirrel pranked you with some electrical work.
 

Ken226

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I seem to have power to all relays that have to se with the starter and they click while cranking as the should. I have power everywhere beside the signal wire to the starter, there is also this plastic leaver under my shifter that clicks when I try to crank it. It’s hot to the touch. What it is?

 
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I tried that still got nothing. I jumped the starter at the starter and verified it’s not that, I have power coming to starter solenoid relay (k3) I have power to both run start relays (k2 and k4) I tried jumping all of these relayes separately and have gotten nothing down to the starter. I looked into ASD relay and could not find it in the fuse box. Both battery’s are new with 12+v my next step is to check continuity between fuse box and starter but I can’t find a woring diagram for it.
 
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Ken226

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I tried jumping all of these relayes separately and have gotten nothing down to the starter.

It sure sounds like a wiring or connector problem.


AllDataDIY is 20$ for 1 vehicle for 1 month.


These days, that's about the cost of lunch at McGreasy's, if you skip the fries and get a small drink. At least, up here by Seattle it is.
 

dlp571

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dlp571 here, I have a 2014 Ram 1500 and a teary ago, I pulled in to get some gas , when I got done started to leave, turned the key and one click and no turn over, for 4 days I try to start it, finally install a new battery and it started up got it home and the next morning 1 click and no turnover, long story short, my turn out to be the FOB, could not program it. A month later same thing, 1click and no turnover, I was thinking the FOB again but it was the starter? Hope this helps
 

Ram4dmf

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I’ve got a 2012 2500 Cummins, yesterday it started up fine. I put a new headliner in today and then went to fire it up nothing. First thought was a dead battery hooked the jump pack up and jumper cabled. Still nothing. Everything stays on when a try to crank all I hear is a click from a little box with a plastic leaver by the steering column I have no idea what it is and I can’t even seem to find a diagram to help me out. I checked the signal wire while trying to crank and had nothing at the wire. Checked a few related fused and they were all good even swapped relays nothing. Any thoughts?
my 2018 did the same thing starter being replaced at the dealership now nationwide backorder on fourth GEN 67 starters only Mopar remanufactured starter was available waiting for its arrival now. The first indication was the key fob operated normally, but the remote start would not work nor would the manual push button.
 

Ram4dmf

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I’ve got a 2012 2500 Cummins, yesterday it started up fine. I put a new headliner in today and then went to fire it up nothing. First thought was a dead battery hooked the jump pack up and jumper cabled. Still nothing. Everything stays on when a try to crank all I hear is a click from a little box with a plastic leaver by the steering column I have no idea what it is and I can’t even seem to find a diagram to help me out. I checked the signal wire while trying to crank and had nothing at the wire. Checked a few related fused and they were all good even swapped relays nothing. Any thoughts?
STARTER
 

Ram4dmf

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I’ve got a 2012 2500 Cummins, yesterday it started up fine. I put a new headliner in today and then went to fire it up nothing. First thought was a dead battery hooked the jump pack up and jumper cabled. Still nothing. Everything stays on when a try to crank all I hear is a click from a little box with a plastic leaver by the steering column I have no idea what it is and I can’t even seem to find a diagram to help me out. I checked the signal wire while trying to crank and had nothing at the wire. Checked a few related fused and they were all good even swapped relays nothing. Any thoughts?
starter
 

Bob Horowski

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Glad you got it straightened out. I had similar weird situation as yours with my '98 12 valve, went to the store 15 minutes later truck was dead, turned key,nothing, two good batteries, tried hitting the starter with a hammer , nothing . Ran a jumper wire to the starter and it fired right up. Found a blown ignition fuse in the main distribution box in the engine compartment. How a fuse blows while the truck is sitting parked for fifteen minutes is beyond me but that's what happened. Changed the fuse and never had an issue after that incident.
 

markabby

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Problem solved, found a bad connection for signal wire after I repaired it she fired right up

Thanks for reporting back that you found the problem. It might help others in the future.

As far as that yellow lever, did you find out what exactly it doe?

AI says it's this:

AI Overview



Based on common forum discussions regarding 2012 Ram 1500 trucks, a small
yellow button or lever located under the steering column is typically not a factory-installed component.
It is most commonly identified as an aftermarket tracker or alarm system, often a starter kill switch installed by dealerships or third parties.
  • Function: It is generally used to set the alarm system or act as a security tracker.
  • Location: Under the steering column/dashboard area, sometimes wired to be visible, other times hidden under the plastic.
  • Action: If it has a light, it is designed to notify potential intruders that the vehicle is alarmed.
 

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