No crank no start

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Halfbreedmedic

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2023
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2004
Engine
5.7
Hi all,
I have a no crank, no start condition on my 2004 1500 with a 5.7. Not sure what auto trans is in it. Problem started with intermittent stalling. Then it wouldn’t start, just a click from the starter, and that was intermittent on whether it would start or not. Recenly, it just clicks with no crank. When I did get it running, alternator puts out 14.5v. Battery maintained 12.5v. No volt loss between post and terminal. Continuity on battery cables to ground and starter. I warranties out my battery so I have a new battery, bought a new (not reman) starter and ignition switch from Napa and installed. I had bought to previous remans, and each time they would start, but there was a slight whine before it turned over, then they would die and click. One made it a week for giving out. So I made Napa give me the new manufacture not a reman. Bench tested new starter and bendix pops and spins as designed. New clean terminals and cut old corrosion off cables for new shiny copper wiring into terminals. Pcm power wire gets 12v. Swapped my working horn relay for my starter relay with no change. Switching between park and neutral when starting didn’t a difference. Good lights and noises when ignition switches on. Only code on reader is P0038 bad high O2 sensor. When I switch on to try and start, lights all dim and dash readout where mileage is gives some weird numbers. Haven’t done a load test with my voltmeter yet. I’m scratching my head now. Could this be a neutral safety or pcm? Or what else could this be.

Thanks for replying.
 
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Halfbreedmedic

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2023
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2004
Engine
5.7
I fixed my problem. After replacing the starter (which was definitely broke after bench testing), I found my positive cable was corroded all the way through. Yes, I stripped all the insulation off. I tested the current, grounds, and solenoid switch circuit using a multimeter, and after I replaced the positive cable, it fired right up no problem. I was stumped cause the old cable showed good continuity and no power loss with a multimeter. On the bright side, I have a much better diagnostic knowledge now.
 
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