No heat drivers side

[Jeff Armstrong]

My 2013 Ram 1500 has low heat on drivers side. Truck has basic single zone heat (no climate control). I'm assuming its the heater core.

 

[McBroom]

My 2013 Ram 1500 has low heat on drivers side. Truck has basic single zone heat (no climate control). I'm assuming its the heater core.

Sounds more like the blend door or blend door actuators are bad


The Blue Mule

 

[Jeff Armstrong]

I haven't been able to find a schematic that shows where the blend door actuator is located for a gen 4 Ram. I replaced the radiator a couple of months ago do to it being clogged. I was just assuming the same had happened to the heater core. I also have no clicking noise.

 

[mopargenes]

Anyone happen to find the fix for this? I also have this issue and it was 3° on my way to work a couple nights ago.

2013 Ram, single zone system, heat blows hot on passenger side but cold on drivers.

 

[McBroom]

I still stand by the blend door being stuck. You have to remove the covers under the dash to get to the door.
It’s a ***** to do.
@allmoparparts can probably get ya the schematics and I know Benny can get the parts for y’all.
Send him a pm and he’ll get it done.
Benny @allmoparparts

The Blue Mule

 

[RamCares]

Anyone happen to find the fix for this? I also have this issue and it was 3° on my way to work a couple nights ago.

2013 Ram, single zone system, heat blows hot on passenger side but cold on drivers.

Hello mopargenes,
As our team is not technically trained, we are unfortunately unable to speculate regarding your concern. With this in mind, I kindly suggest connecting with your local certified Ram dealer, as they are in the best position to assist. If you need additional assistance throughout this process please reach out to us privately.
Laura
RamCares

 

[ol6571]

I have had issues with my Rams heating and with all my research online most issues seem to point to the blend door and mode door

 

[Papa Red]

I believe McBroom is correct. I had that issue fixed once years ago and it happened again about a year and a half ago so now I'm living with it until I sell it to get a new Ram. Sometimes you can pound on the heater under the dash and it will sometimes move the doors. Good luck. It's not fun.

Red

 

[mopargenes]

Yea i've seen lots of blend door answers. Am I wrong to assume that since the recirc works that the blend door is working?

thanks.

 

[Ricks Ram]

Yea i've seen lots of blend door answers. Am I wrong to assume that since the recirc works that the blend door is working?

thanks.

The recirculation door uses a different motor so yes that one is working. The heater/AC temp blend door is controlled by a different motor as well as the other doors that control other functions such as defrost ect.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[RamCares]

I have had issues with my Rams heating and with all my research online most issues seem to point to the blend door and mode door

Hello ol6571,
As our team is not technically trained, we are unfortunately unable to speculate regarding your concern. With this in mind, I kindly suggest connecting with your local certified Ram dealer, as they are in the best position to assist. If you need additional assistance throughout this process please reach out to us privately.
Laura
RamCares

 

[Aggrwr]

Had the same problem in 2011 ram 4.7 engine. Flushed the heater core and heat got a bit better but then disappeared again very quickly. Flushed again this time the entire system and replaced antifreeze. Heat got a bit better again. Still a difference between the sides but called it good enough. This time heat lasted a day before stopping again. Previous owner had been using orange antifreeze so that’s what I continued with. Through some research I discovered that some of the orange antifreeze has dexcool in it which can gum up the system. So I decided to get it all out. Thoroughly flushed entire system, heater core, engine, radiator, and overflow tank, then replaced antifreeze with good old fashioned cheap green store brand antifreeze. Heat came back better than before. Still not nearly as good as passenger side but I considered it good enough to avoid the labor intensive job of replacing the heater core. What was really great is as I drove the heat got better and better. The green antifreeze was cleaning the gummy orange junk out of my system. Now 3 days later (less than 100 miles) there is no difference between drivers and passengers side and the heat is better than I have ever had in my truck (owned it for 7 years). When checked, the new green antifreeze is taking on an orange tint from all the gunk being removed. I will probably flush it again in a bit just to get the crud out of my system. Hope this helps someone because as I was trying to solve my problem I never came across any info about the antifreeze itself possibly being the problem.

 

[2013dodgeram01]

Drive to a parts store and find a pressure pump and a radiator cap if needed. Like This >>>

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Vacuum-Bleeder-Automotive-Adapters/dp/B0788MSW7Y/ref=asc_df_B0788MSW7Y?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814156492541&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413744788081&psc=1

Crack the radiator cap and top up the coolant. But make sure you can still see the overflow hole on the inside of the radiator once you remove the cap. If filled to full you will suck antifreeze into the pump and that is bad but not the end of the world. Leave the radiator cap cracked. Fill up the overflow as required. Let the vehicle warm up to operating temp turn the heat and blower on high, and cap off. The replacement cap shows 16 lbs psi. in my case. Take out the pump and connect a hose to the front of it. Hold your thumb on one end and give it a pump, making sure it is sucking. Remove the overflow line at the top and connect the other end of the hose to it. You should have a cone fitting in the box to fit this end that will fit into the overflow nipple from the outside. Install a new radiator cap if needed bad seal. Give it a few pumps and watch the gauge. What your looking for is to see if you are losing pressure as your pumping if so you are pulling air from the system. Pump up to 16psi and see if it is holding. Give the engine a rev or two and watch the pressure gauge. It should be steady. If you cannot hold pressure continue pumping up to 16 psi and hold a few minutes then release. I had to repeat about ten times to get all the air out. Once you're holding steady for about five minutes go for 15 minutes just to be sure no leaks. replace the overflow line top up the coolant and install the cap. If this is your problem you should now have heat. If not you learned something. It`s better to try this first than ripping your dash out and spending a bunch of dough. That may happen at some point but for now, I have heat.
Best of luck.

 

[GTyankee]

You have 2 hoses going through the firewall
after you have been driving for a while, grab those 2 hoses
1 hose will be hotter that the other, i would mark one some how.

you can back flush using water through the cold hose & out the Hot hose
remember your home water pressure is something like 50 pounds pressure & anything over 7 pounds of pressure in the vehicle can mess things up.
You can use AIR pressure instead of water to help with the Back Flushing

===========================================

VENTs in the Cab, this is for 2009 & newer Rams, Gen 3 is different



Remove your 2 Glove compartments, caution on the right side of one compartment, there is a spring loaded cord that hooks into the side of the compartment.

Just to the left of the fan, you will see a small motor , called an Actuator, with a metal rod on it

this motor is held on by 2 screws
It is marked Upper Blend Door in the image

watch video

How to Replace Blend Door Actuator 2011-2018 RAM 2500

Buy Now!New Defroster Door Actuator from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ia/1AZMX00204Watch this video to learn how to install a brand new TRQ blend door actuator ...

www.youtube.com

Disassembly of the whole HVAC Box, WITH a full explanation of how it all works

Blend Doors and Evaporator Replacement - Part 2, Rebuild

Part 2 (Rebuild) of a 3 part series detailing the process to properly rebuild the HVAC system of a 3rd generation (2003-2009) Dodge Ram with a new evaporator...

www.youtube.com

 

[GTyankee]

youtube videos will make you a Novice

blend door usa 2013 ram 1500 - Google Search