Persistent “transmission” issues

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NickSteel

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Hey guys, so, i replaced my trans, seller used the wrong valve body which resulted in pressure codes for the 2C clutch so i replaced it with my old one and so far so good, but i’ve noticed a few things.

The transmission shifts very soft still, it takes sometimes 3 seconds to complete the 2-4 shift

It still clicks when it shifts into 4th, which sounds like it’s coming from the wheel wells or front of the engine if that makes sense.

Also, both transmissions did something (or atleast this is how the tach showed it) where the rpms climbing aren’t smooth, it’s studdery if that makes sense. Like it jumps around 100 rpm, stays there, jumps another 100, and so on.

The shift flares which are the TCC unlocking are still there, and it all around is pretty much exactly like the transmission i replaced it with, but it has a nice new gray paint on the trans casing.

I ran the codes, and i got a B275B code from AlfaOBD. So i ram a few monitors on the charging voltage, and from what Alfa is saying the truck is requesting 14.1 volts but the battery is charging at 13.0 volts.

I ran an mild alternator test, just by turning all accessories on, and the charging voltage dropped down to 12.4 but then came back up to 12.9 and stayed there. And according to Alfa the voltage is everywhere bouncing from 13.4 to 12.9 regularly, but almost always staying towards the low side of the spectrum.

I’ve had many “Battery Voltage Low” messages pop up in the cluster, and the truck has always had a whine that followed perfectly with engine RPM, that i thought was the old transmission, and that was probably the #1 reason why i replaced it.

Also, the cabin LED lights like to flicker occasionally with the truck running, but they never die out. It usually takes a cycle of the key to get them running right again.

So, the question is, would the alternator cause these trans issues? If so, i’m willing to replace it. I have a picture of it acting up i’ll add to this:

8cc05acadb7ea375e77b864883fc9b57.jpg
c175ee80cdf39915b7daa690582147a3.jpg

These were taken a while ago with the old transmission, the temps haven’t reached that high since.


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NickSteel

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Also forgot to add, sitting in drive with a voltmeter on the battery gives me massive voltage fluctuations, with the battery going from 11.5-12.9 in around 4-5 second intervals.


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crash68

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I would get to the bottom of your voltage issue. How old is the battery? If it's a couple of years old you might want to replace it. Wouldn't hurt to get it load tested.
It might be the Intelligent Battery Sensor causing the charging voltage fluctuations, it's found on the negative battery terminal. That's definitely cheaper/easier than replacing the alternator which is another possibility. Check any grounds you find that they're tight and clean.
 
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NickSteel

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I would get to the bottom of your voltage issue. How old is the battery? If it's a couple of years old you might want to replace it. Wouldn't hurt to get it load tested.
It might be the Intelligent Battery Sensor causing the charging voltage fluctuations, it's found on the negative battery terminal. That's definitely cheaper/easier than replacing the alternator which is another possibility. Check any grounds you find that they're tight and clean.

Battery is from 5/19, so not all that old.

How would one go about replacing the intelligent battery sensor?


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crash68

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The IBS bolts in between the negative battery terminal and the ground wire. There is also a molex plug on itIBS.jpg
 
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NickSteel

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Okay, replaced it, and it’s still massively undercharging like it was before, and it seems the alternator is whining a bit more.


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