Ram now spells Customer Service as ***

[Treburkulosis]

fwiw I have the start/ stop turned off. I live in a small mountain town. There are only 6 stop lights in our half of the county so start/ stop is rarely operating even when turned on. 99% of my mileage is highway and dirt road.

Truck was towed to Dealer B today.. I am already more comfortable after speaking with service manager, just a much more professional group than A. They already think A botched the battery test. Hopefully have the truck back in a couple days.... plus the loaner they gave me is a Dodge Challenger GT. FUN!!!!

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We leave ours off to and it went out still. I just think they are junk to begin with. I am glad Dealer B is taking care you. You and I have a very similar story. I didn't like Dealer A and my Dealer was about 15 miles out side of the tow area. Chrysler care made it right for us. I am glad they gave you a fun toy for your inconvenience!

 

[Beltsand]

I have the etorque and the only issue I have had with the truck turned out to be a bad a 48V battery pack (or so it appears). Since there is no 12V alternator, the 12V battery is charged off the 48V system. Something in that battery pack would fail and stop charging the 12V system. I would get a battery fault while driving, and could switch to the volt meter in the gauge cluster to see my 12V system discharging while driving down the road. The error would clear if I stopped and shut the truck off for a bit, about as long as it takes to refill a gas tank conveniently enough, and start charging the 12V system again. The gauge cluster will read in the high 13.x or low 14.x volt range when driving and everything is correct. If it drops to 12.x or less, you aren't charging. I never let it get below 10.5 before stopping as I wanted to be able to restart, but had to get to an exit with a dealership to have it checked out. There were a couple stored codes in the computer that repeated from the first time to the second time I stopped at a dealership (the same road trip).

They did a SW update and the issue went away for almost a year. I was told if it happened again, they would replace the 48V battery. It took a while, but it did happen again. I brought it back in and RAM approved the battery replacement. Since it was replaced several months ago, no issues. The 12V battery was never a problem on this issue.

So, questions I have are, did you get a battery fault warning as the first error? Shows up as a red lightning bolt between two vertical red lines on the right center of the gauge cluster. (don't ignore it if you do!) Were there any stored codes in the computer? The check engine warning light stayed on for a couple restarts after the fault, then would go off if it didn't repeat. (BTW, the remote start would not work for me as long as the check engine light was on. Just an observation) The codes were still stored though. If you get the codes, you can search for TSB's associated with the codes.

 

[yoda]

I have a diesel 2500 with a charging issue, the dealer said they ran the GR8 test, but the truck was only in the bay for about 30 minutes...which may be enough time, when I talked to other dealers they say the test it shelf takes longer like a few hours....does anyone know if the correct way to do a GR8 test timeline? The batteries never failed but I bought new batteries a still have the problem...working with RAM now since this happened while in warranty and still not fixed and now I am out of warranty..

Every battery is different, also depends on the state of charge. I've had them pass or fail in 5 min. I've had them go into a 3 hour recovery/recharge, then pass or fail

 

[mikeru]

Sorry for your troubles. These stories are great reminders for me to always buy used. By 60k miles most of these gremlins have been worked out or sent to the scrape heap. Any problems that arise after that I know from the start that I am OMFO.

That's funny. The reason I stopped buying used was so that I could have a factory bumper to bumper warranty and not inherit other people's problems. The OP has a legitimate problem and seems to have had problems with two dealerships. But to be fair, we're only hearing his side of the story. I'm not saying he's making this up, but without hearing from both sides it's tough to pass judgement on anyone. I hope he's taken care of. His experiences are definitely not what I've experienced with any dealerships in my area. My local CDJR dealer bends over backwards to make me happy any time I've ever needed anything.

 

[Eclipse Aries]

I completely sympathize with the OP. He’s getting a raw deal from the dealer service and the RAM warranty. I used to buy new for the same reasons. Peace of mind. But a warranty is only as good as the business that stands behind it. In my experience, and it appears the OP as well, when a buyer comes to redeem the warranty it’s “we can’t help you” and “sorry that’s not covered under the limitations”. I got tired of being lied to while paying new truck prices. Lifetime maxicare was a lie. Aftermarket warranty is severely limited with “normal wear” exclusions. I’m over it. They all suck.

 

[GeoffreyXE]

I am sorry, but the 2019 all new Ram 1500 is a lemon. I drove one for 13months and 30k miles before I just had enough. What's worst then the 23 plus federal recalls and horrible reliabilty was the dealers. I have a 2020 Ram 1500 classic at the moment with 20k miles and not one single issue. 4th gen is better for me and my job.

 

[Scottly]

I buy my trucks from dealers out of state because I can't seem to find what I want around here. That being said, when I have a warranty issue, I try to approach real gingerly with the local dealer because they know you didn't get it from them...And while a good dealer will always try to provide outstanding service for anyone, it's human nature to be a little butthurt that you dropped $$,$$$ somewhere else and now expect this dealer to handle the issues. My local dealer always seems to treat me good, but the techs know I'm a good tipper...They need to eat, too.

 

[njjeff201]

I used to test a battery: 1) Load test. Must be charged then the tester will calculate the Current draw according to the battery's Amp Hour rating. 2) Cell test: If the battery is not sealed remove the top filler caps. Cells can be tested between each other with a voltmeter. Just put the probes in the acid, (not into the plates) and compare the 5 Voltage readings to one another. You can also use a battery hydrometer to test the acid of the 6 cells. If one is weak or dead battery is NG! Even if it passes the load test. Be sure to rinse your wires from acid.

 

[photog0611]

Dealer B (the good dealer) just called to inform the battery failed load test with a bad cell and has been replaced. My own personal learnings:
1. Don't use the auto set/release parking brake. Neat feature but you must have a powered up and functioning control module to release it. No way to override.
2. Mechanical park gear release is located just under the park brake button on left side of dash.
3. Warranty help seems geared towards customers in populated urban areas. When tow restrictions push you towards a dealer you don't want, you can get supervisor approval to tow to a further dealer. Takes a lot of phone time and patience but it is possible, but not guaranteed.
4. The difference between a good dealer (B for me) and a bad dealer (A) is mind boggling. B gave me great service, gave me a loaner, prioritized me in their busy schedule, and hopefully fixed the problem. A rejected an agreed appointment, left me stranded, refused a loaner or rental, misdiagnosed the problem and generally displayed a could give a sht attitude. Seems like forum members might benefit from a forum dedicated to identifying great and awful dealers. I submit Castle Rock CDJR as a great dealership, Silverthorne as one of the worst I've ever experienced in my 64 years.

Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. Those that diagnosed a bad battery cell appear to be correct. Hopefully this is the end of this little saga and I don't have to bore you with more details.

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[photog0611]

I have a diesel 2500 with a charging issue, the dealer said they ran the GR8 test, but the truck was only in the bay for about 30 minutes...which may be enough time, when I talked to other dealers they say the test it shelf takes longer like a few hours....does anyone know if the correct way to do a GR8 test timeline? The batteries never failed but I bought new batteries a still have the problem...working with RAM now since this happened while in warranty and still not fixed and now I am out of warranty..

My service manager told me there is a handheld GR8 and a large rolling tester GR8. The large takes around 6 hr to finish a full load test, while the handheld is much less accurate and performs a "quick test" that is only a little better than using your volt meter. Perhaps they used the handheld in your case?

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[JoeCo]

That's funny. The reason I stopped buying used was so that I could have a factory bumper to bumper warranty and not inherit other people's problems. The OP has a legitimate problem and seems to have had problems with two dealerships. But to be fair, we're only hearing his side of the story. I'm not saying he's making this up, but without hearing from both sides it's tough to pass judgement on anyone. I hope he's taken care of. His experiences are definitely not what I've experienced with any dealerships in my area. My local CDJR dealer bends over backwards to make me happy any time I've ever needed anything.

I agree, around 50-60k is when my last 2-3 rams have all started needing things to be replaced, and that's when I dump them. Would much rather put the money into a new truck at that point. Although this is my first time buying new, I've always bought lightly used at around 20k miles with some factory warranty left. Maybe buying new this time I will be able to keep this ram for more than 2 years!

And living in the northeast certainly does not help anything in terms of longevity.

 

[Smokey613]

I am sorry, but the 2019 all new Ram 1500 is a lemon. I drove one for 13months and 30k miles before I just had enough. What's worst then the 23 plus federal recalls and horrible reliabilty was the dealers. I have a 2020 Ram 1500 classic at the moment with 20k miles and not one single issue. 4th gen is better for me and my job.

We are glad we got our slightly used 2018 Laramie when we did. Other than an initial battery issue and the occassional uConnect quirks it has been great. We paid less than 1/2 the sticker price when it was 14 months old.

 

[chri5k]

... I submit Castle Rock CDJR as a great dealership, Silverthorne as one of the worst I've ever experienced in my 64 years.

Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. Those that diagnosed a bad battery cell appear to be correct. Hopefully this is the end of this little saga and I don't have to bore you with more details.

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I am curious how a 52 year old person gains 64 years of experience?

 

[2016-Ram 3500]

In my state a vehicle out of service for 20 business days within a calendar year is a lemon. That includes RAM to pay and not limited to all fees -taxes, tags, interest...

just saying.

So what is your state?

 

[2016-Ram 3500]

A friend of mine had good luck when he engaged corporate for his Toyota SUV. I would think similar results would be had with all the manufacturers. I would pre-empt a disappointment in the morning by getting it on their radar. I'm sorry to hear about your cluster!

In 1989 after the Toyota dealer fixed the same problem for me 5 times I called the Regional office - they couldn't care less. Needless to say, I haven't been back.

... Just sayin

 

[Farmer Fran]

So what is your state?

North Carolina

I forgot to mention, minus mileage. So keep good track of your mileage. Make them take off any they put on. Although it would have to be lots to make a difference.

Lemon Law

master page

ncdoj.gov

 

[Farmer Fran]

In NC​

Covered by the Lemon Law?​

Your car may be covered by the Lemon Law if all of the following have happened:​

• The problem occurs in some part of the vehicle that is covered by the manufacturer’s warranty and you are within the warranty period. It does not need to be something that keeps you from being able to drive the car. For example, faulty air conditioning or peeling paint could be considered defects under the Lemon Law.
• You tell the manufacturer about the problem in writing and give them a reasonable period, but not more than 15 days, to fix it.
• The manufacturer makes “a reasonable number of attempts” to fix the vehicle. This means that the car has been repaired for the same problem four or more times, or that it has been out of service a cumulative total of 20 or more business days during a 12 month period of the warranty.
• The manufacturers’ efforts to fix the vehicle fail. Under the law, they must either replace your car or buy it back. You get to decide between a comparable new car and a refund.

It is a good idea to read your warranty to find out what kind of remedies your manufacturer might offer outside of the Lemon Law.

​

Your Rights under the Lemon Law​

If the manufacturer hasn’t fixed your car after a reasonable number of attempts, you are entitled to choose a comparable new replacement vehicle, or a refund. The law does not spell out what a comparable new replacement vehicle is, though it would most likely be an identical make and model.

If your car is a lemon, you are entitled to a refund of:​

• The full contract price including, but not limited to, charges for undercoating, dealer-preparation and installed options, plus the non-refundable portions of extended warranties and service contracts.
• All upfront charges, including but not limited to, sales tax, license and registration fees.
• All finance charges you incurred after you first reported the problem to the manufacturer, or authorized dealer.
• Any incidental damages, less a reasonable allowance for your use of the vehicle.

Under the law, the refund is reduced by a “reasonable allowance” for your use of the vehicle. The following formula is used to calculate the refund:

Amount to be Refunded = Purchase Price – (Number of miles driven by the consumer /120,000) x Purchase Price)

 

[2016-Ram 3500]

North Carolina

I forgot to mention, minus mileage. So keep good track of your mileage. Make them take off any they put on. Although it would have to be lots to make a difference.

Lemon Law

master page

ncdoj.gov

I like it ... I like it. And that is the way it should be everywhere.

 

[Bmags]

That’s crazy

 

[barr0208]

I HATE to tell you but if you think RAM is BAD . Do NOT buy a Jeep . My 1st 2020 was a lemon took forever to settle and I lost $1800. My second 2020 was not built to specs and Jeep nor the selling dealer Bob Poynter Jeep of Columbus IN would make it right. Not worry I will NEVER buy another Jeep. The second one is a loss of $2500. Also my 1st Jeep is for sale in MI at this time. FIAT and their "Jeep Junk".

thats odd the wifes 2019 jeep cherokee trailhawk has had no major problems in 3 years you must have got 2 lemons in a row.