Rescued an 06 Ram - Need help with some issues!

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Arivata

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Location
Elko, NV
Ram Year
2006
Engine
Magnum 4.7
Hey there everyone,

I recently acquired a pretty beat 06 Ram 1500 with the 4.7. It has 144k miles. It's not new to me, as it has been my company's work truck for 5 years at least. I took as much care as I could of it during that time, but I was the only person who did. Everyone else beat the p*ss out of it. Over the last 6 months before I bought the truck, I changed out the starter, throttle position sensor radiator and tail lights (stupid sockets were melting my bulbs). Eventually the water pump went out, which in turn sent coolant all over the engine bay. It got in the alternator and stopped it from charging the battery. My company just parked it and was going to junk it rather than repair all the potential issues, so I bought it for $400. I immediately changed out the battery and then the water pump. The alternator was working fine when I tested with a multimeter. I noticed if it had coolant get in it, I could watch it stop charging the battery. Now that coolant isn't flying around the engine bay, it seems to be doing its job just fine.

The main issue I have noticed over the years is what feels like a random "dead pedal". Best way to recreate this is to have the truck warmed up to operating temperature and then shut it off for a few minutes, like if you were to run inside the gas station real quick. Come back out, start it up and shift into drive to pull away. The truck will sometimes "bog" or sputter and during this time the pedal does nothing. I can even shift it into neutral and the issue still will persist. Then it will randomly roar back to its normal self and be on its way. This seems to increase in frequency as there is more load put on the truck. I remember being backed down a loading ramp with a trailer and having the truck actually stall when I tried to pull away. This has been an issue for the last 3 years. It feels like the computer is cutting fuel/throttle for some reason. I had checked codes over the years and the codes that showed up most often were "Closed Loop Fueling Not Achieved Bank 1" and "Limp Home Position".

The truck sat for a while with a dead battery. I replaced it and it took about 4 days of driving for the CEL to come back on. Keep in mind that the truck exhibited all sorts of erratic behavior like I mentioned above, several times before it ever illuminated the CEL. I checked codes and got a few:

P1404 - EGR Close Position Performance
P1684 - Limp Home Position (can't tell if the EGR code or the Transmission code is causing this - or both)
P0714 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor 'A' Circuit Intermittent


I did check the transmission fluid, and it was a bit low. I topped that back off to its correct position. It shifts "okay-ish". It really seems to struggle to figure out if it wants to be in 1st or 2nd when traveling at parking lot speed. It will just sit at the top of first most of the time. If I get out on the road, it shifts fine, if not a slight bit harsh. But once again, this is how its been for at least 5 years.

I can't really tell if the truck is staying in limp mode though. Sometimes it feels peppy, while other times it feels like a dog. I can never tell whats going on because the truck just randomly "dings" at me several times over the first 1-2 minutes after startup. Can't tell what for. Not sure if my ABS light being on calls for a ding, and then low washer fluid, etc. I got this truck on the cheap, and I really just plan to use it for some occasional hauling or light exploring. I would like to get these issues taken care of though as I would like to get as much life as I can get out of this truck. Any tips or ideas on any of these would be super helpful!

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I've also got a secondary issue but I am not sure if this can go in this particular sub-forum, correct me if I need to post it elsewhere. It has to do with 4 wheel drive and ABS. I've got the dreaded ABS and Brake lights on the dash. When checking codes, I got these:

C2100 - Battery Voltage Low (I believe this is from me changing out the battery, and possibly the )
C2202 - Original VIN Mismatch/Missing
C2206 - Vehicle Configuration Mismatch


The braking system seems to work normally, however I have no 4 wheel drive. The switch does nothing when I turn it. No lights, no sounds. I have read that ABS issues can stop 4x4 engagement on these trucks. I would like to get to the bottom of this part before winter if possible.
 

GTyankee

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Code P1404 Dodge Possible Causes
Faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Faulty
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Solenoid Exhaust Gas
Recirculation valve carbon blockage
examine the corresponding wiring harness and connectors. Ensure to check for any damaged components and inspect the connector pins for signs of being broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded.

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1404_dodge.html

......................................................................................................
p1684
charge up the battery

Battery was recently disconnected
Low battery voltage
Malfunctioning charging system

Transmission Control Module (TCM) was replaced or disconnected
Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Transmission Control Module (TCM) harness is open or shorted Transmission Control Module (TCM) circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1684_dodge.html

....................................................................

Code P0714 Dodge
look for bent pins at the connection
Possible Causes Faulty Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0714_dodge.html

..................................................................................................


  • Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABM) moved from different vehicle

  • Wrong Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) programmed to the vehicle

Diagnose DTC C2202 Original VIN Mismatch/Missing​

Step 1. Check for a DTC C2202 Original VIN Mismatch/Missing
This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid. Turn the ignition on, with the scan tool, read DTCs. With the scan tool, read and record environmental data to help identify the conditions in which the DTC was set. Perform ECU initialization with drive test. Refer to ABS Verification test. Start the engine, with the scan tool read DTCs.

Does the scan tool display C2202 Original VIN Mismatch/Missing?

YES, go to step 2.
NO, Perform the ABS Intermittent condition, see this site label intermittent problems.

Step 2. Wrong VIN programmed into vehicle

Is the correct VIN programmed into the vehicle?

YES, replace the Antilock Brake System (ABS) Module. Perform the ABS Verification Test.
NO, reprogram the VIN per service information.

Test complete for DTC C2202 Original VIN Mismatch/Missing

.......................................................................

Possible causes C2206 Code​

  • Vehicle Configuration Mismatch
  • ABS Module Initialization
  • Anti-Lock Brake System (AMS) Module

Step 1. Verify the DTC is active
Turn the ignition on, with the scan tool select ''Miscellaneous Functions'' and restore vehicle configuration. With the scan tool, record and erase the DTCs. Cycle the ignition switch off then on. With the scan tool read the DTCs.

Is the DTC active at this time?

Yes, go to step 2.
No, Perform the ABS Verification Test.

Step 2. Initialize the ABS Module
Cycle the ignition switch off then on. With the scan tool, under ''Miscellaneous Functions'' run the ABS Initialization routine. With the scan tool, erase DTCs. With the scan tool, read the DTCs.

Does the DTC remain active?

Yes, replace the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module. Perform the ABS Verification Test.
No, test complete, the condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time.
 
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Arivata

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2023
Posts
3
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Location
Elko, NV
Ram Year
2006
Engine
Magnum 4.7
Code P1404 Dodge Possible Causes
Faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Faulty
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Solenoid Exhaust Gas....


Thank you for the reply! I did order an EGR valve. I looked at the other stuff and what I am gathering is that I will need to have someone (dealer) program my ABS module to my VIN.

As far as transmission, its looking like it could be that sensor? I know its in the valve body so I would have to drop that to replace it. Any suggests on a good replacement?

Thanks.
 

GTyankee

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Location
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Engine
3.0 ecodiesel
If it were my truck, i would go to a Brake and Alignment shop
& discuss the issue & get an estimate
They have all the correct tools, specialist in Brakes, & i bet a bit less costly
 
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