Rust on a 2017 ram2500?

[Exalectric]

Hello all. My 2014 was totaled last week so, here I am at the drawing board for a replacement. I had a Ziebart coating on my past truck since new, and touched up every year so she was essentially rust free upon her demise.

I am looking for advise on this 2017. It appears mostly surface rust to me? Spots I should be concerned about and check more in person? (These are photos taken by the shop guy before I drive 100miles to see it)

Also - Can I fluid film treat it to keep from further deterioration? Or once it’s started would it still be a goner?

 

[Burla]

It's not bad, except for the spare that is.

@Hemi395 might be able to answer if you can slow the rust. You can always use por-15 right over rust, most chassis paints as well.

 

[Burla]

Chasis paint is the easiest type of paint to use, goes on like butter. Whenever you cut off o2 supply, rust slows or stops completely.

 

[Exalectric]

It's not bad, except for the spare that is.

@Hemi395 might be able to answer if you can slow the rust. You can always use por-15 right over rust, most chassis paints as well.

Yeah the spare is… something. But honestly, I have never taken the spare off my last truck either in its 11 years. I just have a friend with a tow truck if/when I need it

Chasis paint is the easiest type of paint to use, goes on like butter.

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is this something I can accomplish without a lift aka DIY style it? Naturally, insurance is fleecing me on the value for my truck so we don’t have the cash to get professional services (were replacing my husbands beater car this year too…)

 

[Burla]

For sure easy dyi. There are some prep products, this can help with adhesion, cleaner and metal prep. But I got to the point with this stuff just put it on. Holds up well here without prep, as long as it isn't greasy. The weakness of chassis rust encapsulators tends to be where UV hits. It's a thing, to top coat or not, this could be were fluid film can in as a yearly thing. I'm on nor cal, so I cant attest if chassis paint holds up well in salt states, maybe just fluid filming is the way to go, Corey will pop in at some point.

 

[Exalectric]

For sure easy dyi. There are some prep products, this can help with adhesion, cleaner and metal prep. But I got to the point with this stuff just put it on. Holds up well here without prep, as long as it isn't greasy. The weakness of chassis rust encapsulators tends to be where UV hits. It's a thing, to top coat or not, this could be were fluid film can in as a yearly thing. I'm on nor cal, so I cant attest if chassis paint holds up well in salt states, maybe just fluid filming is the way to go, Corey will pop in at some point.

Thank you! I’m going to check the truck out and (most likely) purchase on Monday so as long as it’s a deal with able issue, then I will prolly get it and spend my summer getting ready for wintertime.

 

[Hemi395]

Personally, I wouldn't use any kind of coating that hardens. Fluid Film or an oil based coating is the way to go.

 

[TJP440]

Myself, I would encourage looking for a dry climate vehicle. I scored one 6 or so months back at a dealership 70 miles away. It was a southern vehicle with only 65K that was traded on a hard to find car the dealer happen to have.
if you decide to proceed do check the tank mounts as they are a known issue (even on dry climate vehicles). The factory fix is a band-aid at best IMO. I did my repairs in a way that should outlast the frame there is a write up with pics somewhere on this forum.
pic of my underside

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Yeah the spare is… something. But honestly, I have never taken the spare off my last truck either in its 11 years. I just have a friend with a tow truck if/when I need it

is this something I can accomplish without a lift aka DIY style it? Naturally, insurance is fleecing me on the value for my truck so we don’t have the cash to get professional services (were replacing my husbands beater car this year too…)

I take the spares off from under most my trucks and throw it in the bed. The spare makes the area above hold water and rust. My 2016 is fluid filmed every other year and has no rust. It is never garaged either

 

[Hemi395]

I take the spares off from under most my trucks and throw it in the bed. The spare makes the area above hold water and rust. My 2016 is fluid filled every other year and has no rust. It is never garaged either

Same here, my 2013 is 12+ years old now with 103k and I live on the coast of New England. We get salt air year round and road salt in the winter, truck has 0 rust.

Fluid Film/Woolwax/NHOU etc is the only way to truly prevent rust.

 

[jws123]

The underside looks fine to me just check the rocker panels and around the bed/fenders especially if they put the fender flares on it.

 

[markabby]

being in Rochester, NY, if that is a local truck chances are it's been driven in the salt. Also, look under the front and see if there's any tell tale signs of a plow being hooked up in the past. Also, some small holes on the dash would be an indicator of plow controls.

Now, if you want a decent truck, used or otherwise, there's a lot of them here in southern kentucky. My son drove down from Rochester, NY and went to my dealer and bought a new 2025 1500. He saved thousands rather than buying a new one from any dealer in Rochester, and, he was able to get the truck he wanted, not what the local dealers were pushing on him.

As for rust, when i lived in Rochester, I had a 2011 1500 and it began rusting a little bit around the rear wheel wells. I bought some stuff called POR-15 off amazon. It was designed to go right over the rust (or sand the rust first) and it literally kills rust.

funny part is i traded it in down here for a 2020 1500 and once in a while i see someone driving that same truck! it still look good. I know it was mine because it was a special green paint that dodge only used on the 2011 ram trucks.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I wouldn't say it's really that clean and rust-free. But it's not worst-case either. Overall, if you like the truck and it has what you want, good shape, get it and have it Ziebarted like you did your last truck and it should be fine. Make sure they thoroughly do the doors/cab corners, rockers, tailgate and the front/rear box...as well as the fender wheel arches. AND that area on the backside of the RAM fender badges (where they mysteriously rust). You might have to remind them of that spot. Right in the middle of the fender they'll eventually rot out from sound deadener behind the badge.

Then make sure they really get inside the frame. Or you get in there with some spray oil. Every Ram box frame will eventually rot out ...the bottoms will be gone in some years... like the GM box frames ...if left untreated.

If they get all those spots, then she should stay pretty clean as long as you own it. If you want a REALLY clean truck, I would recommend looking further south and fly down and buy one. But if it's local and you don't want to fuss around, get it 'treated' like your previous truck.

 

[Gero]

Personally, I wouldn't use any kind of coating that hardens. Fluid Film or an oil based coating is the way to go.

Im with this guy. Don't bother painting or even por15. I'd stick with fluidfilm, krown, woolwax, corossion-free, etc.

The truck isn't rust free but it's not bad.

 

[Dusty]

Being from Rochester, NY, I can confirm the concern for salt penetration.

There was at one time a local service specializing in vinegar underbody washes which got into the nooks and crannies of the frame interior and outer body panels. I think it was called The Detail Lab.

If still available it might provide a cleaner surface for whatever rust prevention system you choose.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 132033 miles.

 

[Jeepwalker]

There was at one time a local service specializing in vinegar underbody washes which got into the nooks and crannies of the frame interior

Hmmm... sounds like something you'd find in S. Italy.

In Milwaukee, now, ...when beer was as plentiful as water, they used a slightly different approach. Maybe some of you guys have heard about this. They'd spray an extra-thick bock-type beer from the bottom of vats ...to the undersides of cars & frames. Being thicker it would adhere pretty well. No problem getting workers to help, but they became more blearly-eyed and sloppy with their application as the day wore on. Less material was going on the spots where it was supposed to be so it never got out of the 'concept' stage. Whatever didn't get applied by the end of the day you could take home to 'Ma', who could soak brats in it for next week's lunch.

 

[62Blazer]

The pictures don't look alarming for an 8 year old vehicle that's been the salt belt. As far as protection I would recommend an oil based coating like Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc... That type of product will soak into any existing rust and prevent it from getting worse. I would be cautious of any type of coating that hardens and doesn't soak into the rust, as it may just trap the rust in. Not a fan of Ziebart as it can chip or crack and let water get in behind the coating. Also wouldn't use it on a used truck that already had surface rust started. At least on a new clean vehicle you are coating the surface and preventing rust from starting, versus trapping rust behind it. I personally know people who had a brand new vehicle Ziebarted with the lifetime guarantee that includes yearly touchups and they look really good....but part of that is simply because they take really good care of the vehicle and have it touched up every year. The original Ziebart protection is decent at the beginning, it's just if you let it go for several years when you have issues.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

The pictures don't look alarming for an 8 year old vehicle that's been the salt belt. As far as protection I would recommend an oil based coating like Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc... That type of product will soak into any existing rust and prevent it from getting worse. I would be cautious of any type of coating that hardens and doesn't soak into the rust, as it may just trap the rust in. Not a fan of Ziebart as it can chip or crack and let water get in behind the coating. Also wouldn't use it on a used truck that already had surface rust started. At least on a new clean vehicle you are coating the surface and preventing rust from starting, versus trapping rust behind it. I personally know people who had a brand new vehicle Ziebarted with the lifetime guarantee that includes yearly touchups and they look really good....but part of that is simply because they take really good care of the vehicle and have it touched up every year. The original Ziebart protection is decent at the beginning, it's just if you let it go for several years when you have issues.

I second this. An oil is the way I go now. I used Ziebart in the past, but it hardens and can chip allowing moisture under the application. Back in a day, I had a lifetime warranty that remained in effect as long as I got it inspected and the "chips" taken care of. It is only as good as the person applying it, and it doesn't creep like the oils. So I always questioned what was going on inside the frame. I also had a problem with the initial application coating and hardening on the rear differential relief valve. The oil systems are more forgiving.