Should I get a Diesel

[Joe Merchak]

Hi

As you may know I have a 2022 2500 with the 6.4L and 4.1 rear that pulls my Bullet 260RBS. The trailer has a gross weight of 7600lb and a measured tongue weight of 1100lb. We upgraded to the 2500 because my payload was over on my 1500. Some of you know my truck is now in the shop after 10K with a lifter issue. This has me concerned about the strength and longevity of the 6.4L engine and I am thinking of trading it in on a diesel 2500. What do you guys think?

When not towing the trips are around town and trips that are under 50mph. This is why we purchased the 6.4L in the first place since I heard this is not really good for a diesel engine. My current truck has no issues pulling my trailers or doing what I want, just concerned with the motor.

Advice is welcomed.

Thanks everyone
Joe

 

[2003F350]

If you aren't regularly making long trips or hauling heavy weight, I'd avoid the diesel. You are just ASKING for DPF issues doing so.

I would stick with a gasser. Which one is up to you, but I put 102k miles on my last truck ('17 Power Wagon, 6.4, 6 speed, 4.10 gears) and never had any major issues with the truck/engine/trans. In fact the only issues I really had were the parking sensors (salt and sensors don't agree with one another) and the MAP sensor dying on me with no codes. I only ever ran Mobil 1 in it for oil, supposedly it doesn't meet spec but 102k with no issues tells me it works well enough.

 

[flashman252]

Yup. No questions asked... get the diesel. I have had my truck regen at 50-60 mph multiple times and never had an issue. Just be diligent and take it on the hwy for 15-20 min at least once a week if you can. Even then, if you are getting to 50 mph for a decent amount of time, I bet it regens just fine.

 

[KKBB]

Hi

As you may know I have a 2022 2500 with the 6.4L and 4.1 rear that pulls my Bullet 260RBS. The trailer has a gross weight of 7600lb and a measured tongue weight of 1100lb. We upgraded to the 2500 because my payload was over on my 1500. Some of you know my truck is now in the shop after 10K with a lifter issue. This has me concerned about the strength and longevity of the 6.4L engine and I am thinking of trading it in on a diesel 2500. What do you guys think?

When not towing the trips are around town and trips that are under 50mph. This is why we purchased the 6.4L in the first place since I heard this is not really good for a diesel engine. My current truck has no issues pulling my trailers or doing what I want, just concerned with the motor.

Advice is welcomed.

Thanks everyone
Joe

I'm thinking of the same thing. I have always had diesels in the past and in early 2020 I went with the 6.4 because I was worried about emissions issues with the Cummins I had. Now thinking of going back to cummins because of all the lifter/cam issues I keep hearing about with the hemi. I drive only 1 mile to work and never had an issue with my cummins doing that for 2 years. I also would tow our 5th wheel maybe once a month during about a 5 month window in iowa that is good enough weather to go camping. This time, if I do trade I will have the wife drive it to work since she drives 15 miles 1 way at a minimum. I would drive her durango to work. I feel like we would have good luck emissions wise doing it this way.

 

[turkeybird56]

OP asking if U should get a Diesel is like asking which oil, air and oil filter should I run, LOL.

The big thing on Diesel is they need to be worked regularly. One of the reasons why I got rid of my ED. But U do what works for U.

 

[flashman252]

OP asking if U should get a Diesel is like asking which oil, air and oil filter should I run, LOL.

The big thing on Diesel is they need to be worked regularly. One of the reasons why I got rid of my ED. But U do what works for U.

You*

 

[Joe Merchak]

OP asking if U should get a Diesel is like asking which oil, air and oil filter should I run, LOL.

The big thing on Diesel is they need to be worked regularly. One of the reasons why I got rid of my ED. But U do what works for U.

Yes I know, but I did not get a diesel at first because when not towing or going to work (WFH 90%) the truck sits. What I am really asking is getting a diesel smart since the trailer I have is not real heavy and the fact wont be giving it alot of chances to regen. I guess would I be hurting the diesel worse by the type of using I am doing ver the fear I have with my gas engine now since they had to take it apart after 10K.

 

[ramffml]

Yes I know, but I did not get a diesel at first because when not towing or going to work (WFH 90%) the truck sits. What I am really asking is getting a diesel smart since the trailer I have is not real heavy and the fact wont be giving it alot of chances to regen. I guess would I be hurting the diesel worse by the type of using I am doing ver the fear I have with my gas engine now since they had to take it apart after 10K.

Financially, you were betting off making that decision before you purchased your truck. Now you're better off running your gasser, and taking care of it really well. Do 5000 to 7000 mile oil changes (under no circumstances should you just blindly follow the oil monitor, track it with mileage). Put in the best oil you can afford, guys on this forum heavily recommend Redline 5w-30, I used that but run "HPL no vii" right now, but get something with a lot of moly.

Your use case is hard on modern diesels. There is a heavy duty diesel mechanic on YT:
https://www.youtube.com/@TheGettyAdventures

He loves cummins, but fixes them daily, and would never recommend a modern diesel for your use case. They need to be driven hard.

So it's a risk for you: the risk of getting hemi tick (which is very low, all things considered, and can be lowered by doing proper OCI with a good 5w-30 or 0w-40 oil), vs getting diesel emissions issues (which is much higher and probably more expensive, IMHO given your use case).

 

[Joe Merchak]

Financially, you were betting off making that decision before you purchased your truck. Now you're better off running your gasser, and taking care of it really well. Do 5000 to 7000 mile oil changes (under no circumstances should you just blindly follow the oil monitor, track it with mileage). Put in the best oil you can afford, guys on this forum heavily recommend Redline 5w-30, I used that but run "HPL no vii" right now, but get something with a lot of moly.

Your use case is hard on modern diesels. There is a heavy duty diesel mechanic on YT:
https://www.youtube.com/@TheGettyAdventures

He loves cummins, but fixes them daily, and would never recommend a modern diesel for your use case. They need to be driven hard.

So it's a risk for you: the risk of getting hemi tick (which is very low, all things considered), vs getting diesel emissions issues (which is much higher and probably more expensive, IMHO given your use case).

Thats the thing, the oil was changed at the dealer ever 5K, in fact it was just changed prior to the failure.

Thank you for the info, from all of you. It does help.

 

[ramffml]

Thats the thing, the oil was changed at the dealer ever 5K, in fact it was just changed prior to the failure.

Thank you for the info, from all of you. It does help.

What oil are you running?

 

[Joe Merchak]

I only take it to the Ram dealer, and its the full synthetic. They dont list the manufacturer on their invoice but if its at the dealer who sold me the truck it should be the correct oil for the truck.

I know its not redline but I dont want any issues from the dealer or Ram stating I did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations, thats why it goes to the dealer.

 

[turkeybird56]

Yes I know, but I did not get a diesel at first because when not towing or going to work (WFH 90%) the truck sits. What I am really asking is getting a diesel smart since the trailer I have is not real heavy and the fact wont be giving it alot of chances to regen. I guess would I be hurting the diesel worse by the type of using I am doing ver the fear I have with my gas engine now since they had to take it apart after 10K.

OP, your wallet, your decision, but U gotta work that Diesel. They just not like to sit or be granny run, which is why I got rid of my ED besides the issues that were coming up on the 2nd Gen Motors.

And, BTW, U by the GSP,U buy that Diesel, run it hard up and down the GSP a couple days a week. Or maybe cut across on 195 and run it hard, so it will insure runs a good regen. I had to drive my ED 30 miles each way once a week at 60-70 mph to get it to do a full regen. But again, this is just my Opinion, U do as what works for U.

 

[turkeybird56]

What oil are you running?

Most dealers running bulk oil for the changes. May/may not be full synthetic, U just neva know. I had my dealer doing mine and stipulated Full Synthetic and a check of the Mopar part numbers indicated Full Synthetic, but who knows. I'll be running PUP in mine with RP filter and Lubeguard for now on, and keeping the receipts to document.

 

[Joe Merchak]

OP, your wallet, your decision, but U gotta work that Diesel. They just not like to sit or be granny run, which is why I got rid of my ED besides the issues that were coming up on the 2nd Gen Motors.

And, BTW, U by the GSP,U buy that Diesel, run it hard up and down the GSP a couple days a week. Or maybe cut across on 195 and run it hard, so it will insure runs a good regen. I had to drive my ED 30 miles each way once a week at 60-70 mph to get it to do a full regen. But again, this is just my Opinion, U do as what works for U.

No I am in warren county and the only road I go up and down once a week is 31. When I go into work I take I80 but if you know that road its just stop and go during rush hour. The Turnpike and GSP is over a hour from my house.

 

[2003F350]

I only take it to the Ram dealer, and its the full synthetic. They dont list the manufacturer on their invoice but if its at the dealer who sold me the truck it should be the correct oil for the truck.

I know its not redline but I dont want any issues from the dealer or Ram stating I did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations, thats why it goes to the dealer.

You HAVE to specify what oil you want, even at the dealer, because if you don't then whoever is doing your oil change could make it vary. If you've got a good tech who knows his stuff, he's going to look up what it takes and put full synthetic in. If you get just a grease monkey, he's going to look at the cap that says 0W40 or 5W30, and he's going to grab whatever puts that oil into your motor, and he won't care if it's synthetic or regular.

I ALWAYS specified Mobil 1 synthetic in my '17 Wagon (which had the 6.4 Hemi), with the exception of ONE time - I was in a hurry, dropped it off and didn't specify. I picked the truck back up when it was done, and because I always used Trip B to keep track of OCIs, I was also scrolling through menus to make sure they reset the OLM, and noticed my oil pressure was wonky. The truck ALWAYS ran at 50-55 psi oil pressure at 55 mph. After watching it, it NEVER got over 35 PSI, so after about 3 miles I turned around and went back. Service manager dug into it, found out the guy put regular oil in it, and did another oil change with the RIGHT oil on them. Yes, I know, there was some dino oil left in it, but my oil pressure returned to normal, and the truck ran fine after that...and I NEVER developed Hemi tick or scrapped a cam/lifter.

Basically what I'm saying is that yes, trust your dealer to an extent, but on some issues you've got to push them or they may not do it right.

 

[Travelin Ram]

You bought your truck after a reasonable analysis and your conclusion was, and still is, valid. A diesel will not save you money, and it’s not necessary for your trailer.

Nothing has changed except you hit the bad engine lottery with your 6.4. Which is uncommon.

I would focus on how to ensure going forward you have a reliable vehicle without blowing more money on a trade. E.G. will the dealer or FCA give you an extended warranty or sell you one at a discount, since they’re inside a new engine?

If you’re uncomfortable and unable to trust the repair, negotiate for a deal on trading it for a factory fresh 6.4.

 

[Fake-Account27]

I have 52k miles on mine, 25k towing, and 25k mostly shorter trips. I had my first check engine light related to the exhaust system on my last trip with the trailer and it cleared on its own after about 5 hours of heavy driving. I took it to a shop to run a full regen just in case and I had no further issues so far, about 1k miles later.

The issue with Diesels is all the exhaust stories are basically anecdotes. Even the diesel mechanic could not give me a clear answer as to what can trip the exhaust sensors. In my case it likely ran a bad regen cycle but was able to clear with regular use. At no time during the check engine light did it perform any differently then normal.

The two reasons why as of now I would still get another diesel is the exhaust brake and it's easier to get fuel when I am towing.

 

[flashman252]

I have 52k miles on mine, 25k towing, and 25k mostly shorter trips. I had my first check engine light related to the exhaust system on my last trip with the trailer and it cleared on its own after about 5 hours of heavy driving. I took it to a shop to run a full regen just in case and I had no further issues so far, about 1k miles later.

The issue with Diesels is all the exhaust stories are basically anecdotes. Even the diesel mechanic could not give me a clear answer as to what can trip the exhaust sensors. In my case it likely ran a bad regen cycle but was able to clear with regular use. At no time during the check engine light did it perform any differently then normal.

The two reasons why as of now I would still get another diesel is the exhaust brake and it's easier to get fuel when I am towing.

Even when I had a bad sensor, I drove it around for about 2 weeks until the dealership could get me in. Truck drove fine. Was a bit funny, they told me not to drive the truck, but told me they couldnt see me for 2 weeks. Asked if they would help out with a loaner, of course not, so I told them I guess ill keep driving it to work as I still have a life and its my daily driver. Truck did fine for 2 weeks, even did a regen but it didnt clear all the way. Sensor is real easy to fix, but $1100 for the sensor, so I made sure they put a new one in at that price.

 

[Fake-Account27]

Even when I had a bad sensor, I drove it around for about 2 weeks until the dealership could get me in. Truck drove fine. Was a bit funny, they told me not to drive the truck, but told me they couldnt see me for 2 weeks. Asked if they would help out with a loaner, of course not, so I told them I guess ill keep driving it to work as I still have a life and its my daily driver. Truck did fine for 2 weeks, even did a regen but it didnt clear all the way. Sensor is real easy to fix, but $1100 for the sensor, so I made sure they put a new one in at that price.

Funny my dealer told me the same thing. They said I should pull over somewhere safe, I was 750 miles from home.....

 

[Units]

Hi

As you may know I have a 2022 2500 with the 6.4L and 4.1 rear that pulls my Bullet 260RBS. The trailer has a gross weight of 7600lb and a measured tongue weight of 1100lb. We upgraded to the 2500 because my payload was over on my 1500. Some of you know my truck is now in the shop after 10K with a lifter issue. This has me concerned about the strength and longevity of the 6.4L engine and I am thinking of trading it in on a diesel 2500. What do you guys think?

When not towing the trips are around town and trips that are under 50mph. This is why we purchased the 6.4L in the first place since I heard this is not really good for a diesel engine. My current truck has no issues pulling my trailers or doing what I want, just concerned with the motor.

Advice is welcomed.

Thanks everyone
Joe

Is there metal in the motor? You’ve saw my post, they found metal in mine after the lifter swap and subsequent break down. I complained about them going into my motor 2 times within 9k miles. I now have a new motor that purrs like a kitten, I had to be very persistent and keep making my case.