Sound deadening Ram Crew Cab

[Mitten Diver]

I have 80 square feet of sound deadening being delivered tomorrow. I wanted to ask for some input on how I should handle the doors. Do I sound deaden over the plastic? Or should I remove the plastic and apply the material and then put the plastic back on? Planning on covering the back wall and any open floor space as well as attacking the under seat storage area where my sub will be installed.

 

[UNBROKEN]

We took the plastic inner door panel off mine and did 2 layers on the door skin then one layer on the plastic inner panel and 1 layer inside the door card....with ensolite between them.
I wound up using 2 bulk packs of Stinger Roadkill Expert and one bulk pack of Dynamat Superlite or whatever it's called....144 sqft in a regular cab.....may have gone overboard. lol

 

[BlkRamRt]

We took the plastic inner door panel off mine and did 2 layers on the door skin then one layer on the plastic inner panel and 1 layer inside the door card....with ensolite between them.
I wound up using 2 bulk packs of Stinger Roadkill Expert and one bulk pack of Dynamat Superlite or whatever it's called....144 sqft in a regular cab.....may have gone overboard. lol

wow! 144 sqft...well worth it in the long run.

 

[that white kid]

ya that sounds like a little overkill lol. How much was the 80ft of sound deadening?

 

[Etroze86]

That is just impressive. Do you have any pics of the deadener going down Unbroken?

 

[WhiteExpress]

I only put deadening on a few noisy areas on the back of the door panel itself.
I did not remove the inner plastic. What helped me the most on the doors was adding thin (think camper shell foam) on all the mounting points for the 'hooks' from the door panel.
It really 'firmed' up the door panel (maybe Express' mount cheaply?) and helped a bunch.

I thought about removing the inner plastic, but I've never felt the doors to be noisy.

 

[kkreit01]

I like the sounddeadenershowdown approach....

 

[Chewy]

I used RAAMmat in my G8 and tore the plastic off to put it on the skins and the inner frame work and then put the plastic over it before putting the "door cards" back on.

My 2013 is so dang quiet inside, I can't see spending the money to do it. Although I still have half a roll in my garage. lol

 

[WhiteExpress]

My 2013 is so dang quiet inside, I can't see spending the money to do it. Although I still have half a roll in my garage. lol

Give it time. I swear vehicles get louder as you own them.

 

[Chewy]

Give it time. I swear vehicles get louder as you own them.

They do! Suspensions get soft, tolerances widen, tires get worn down...

My F150 never got louder in the 15 years I owned it though. That thing was solid from day one. This RAM makes it feel like a dinosaur though.

Maybe they've put more insulation in these things for '13 but man, it's QUEIT!

 

[UNBROKEN]

That is just impressive. Do you have any pics of the deadener going down Unbroken?

There's a few pics in my old stereo build log thread. It's completely covered inside though from the firewall to the roof and everything in between with at least 1 layer. The doors are always problematic when you run as stout of a midbass as I do. My doors were overdone to make sure there are no rattles and get the midbass response I was after.
Going to that extreme isn't for everyone but if you're doing an extreme or audiophile quality system deadening and dampening is some of the best money you can spend.

 

[Etroze86]

Well its the first time I will be running an active setup. It will have 100 rms behind each Pro audio style woofer and super tweeters. This is purely to play around with cause I got a hellva deal on the speakers before spend some money on audiophile equipment. Think it would be worth going overboard in this situation so its done or wait to get higher quality equipment?

 

[UNBROKEN]

Pro Audio stuff is generally very efficient and low excursion.
I'd hit at least 25% of all internal metal stuff with some deadener.
Don't expect it to hit real low but expect it to be very, very loud.

 

[Etroze86]

I'm not looking for huge lows out of the doors thats for sure. I am trying to get clear and loud so anything that can help is great. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Mitten Diver]

I paid $269 from Sonic Electronics with free shipping. I have been taking some pics that I will post.

 

[autokraftgt]

Well its the first time I will be running an active setup. It will have 100 rms behind each Pro audio style woofer and super tweeters. This is purely to play around with cause I got a hellva deal on the speakers before spend some money on audiophile equipment. Think it would be worth going overboard in this situation so its done or wait to get higher quality equipment?

100 watts to a pro audio speakers? That is going to get loud!

Sound deadening does a lot more than simply eliminating "rattles"
it removes resonances caused by the speakers which can drastically effect the sound we hear from the speakers, cancels out other frequencies caused by the back side of said speaker so all we hear is what is projected from the front of the speaker which is what we want. Doors especially are an infinite baffle enclosure within themselves, except the back side of the enclosure is typically made of long sheets of sheet metal which is probably one of the worst case scenerios in car audio. It has to be dampened IMO.
I have treated my driver door with my truck and other vehicles while leaving the passenger side un-treated just to see/ hear the difference in SQ....you'd be shocked at the difference!
the deadening you do...the better...period.

 

[DatacomGuy]

Agreed!

 

[Etroze86]

I completely agree with you on that. I mostly ment like deadening the roof and down the pillars things like that, doors are a must. The idea I have with the PA stuff is that it will get stupid loud if I want to try to do a db drag and hoping it is still very clear when I have the volume down low.