New forum member doing stereo upgrade

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Isellacuras

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Nor cal
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2018
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I’ve read through dozens of threads here and other forums and still haven’t found the info I’m looking for, just bits and pieces here and there. Hopefully not beating a dead horse. If I am, please feel free to post links and tell me to use the search function. Pretty sure all the info is out there but I’m tired of digging. This is gonna be a long post so I hope things don’t get lost in my ramblings.

I have a 2018 Laramie crew cab with the alpine system and looking to do a complete system upgrade minus the head unit (unless you can educate/convince me that an aftermarket head unit would be beneficial). A quick background and my reason for doing this. Back in the 90’s I worked for a the subwoofer division of Soundstream technologies. I have had lots of systems in lots of cars but as I grew older, and being in the car business, I changed out cars frequently. My last system build was in 2006. I have had a soundstream reference 405 sitting on my shelf for the last 15 years wanting to use it one day. Since I’ve had this truck for 4 years and plan to keep it a long time, I figured this would be a good time to use it. I’ve sent it in to have it upgraded and refurbished and should have it back soon. I know there are probably better options for amplifiers but this amp has sentimental value to me so it will be the only intangible in my stereo build. I am open to suggestions for recommendations for the other parts of the build. I will list what I have planned below but I want to start with my questions first. Disclaimer: I have not made up my mind on speaker choices and head unit so I am open to advice and information. I have done a lot of research already but I have analysis paralysis at this point.

Factory head unit or OEM? I was planning on using a line out converter (LOC) to send signal to the amp but I thought I read that the alpine system has an external amp down behind the parking brake kick panel. If that’s the case, are there RCA’s going into the amp that I can tap in to and not use the LOC? Does the amp I mentioned above also power the sub? Is there an aftermarket head unit that will retain the functionality of the OEM stuff (Climate control, heated seats, back up camera etc)? This is my concern of going aftermarket. That and the aesthetics of wanting to keep it looking stock. If there are good options to replace the factory screen, what should I be looking at?

Door speakers. I understand the door speakers are odd shaped 6x9’s. There seems to be a few options for drop in 6x9’s from kicker and JL to name a few contenders. I have never been happy with the SQ of 6x9’s and have usually changed out to 6.5’s with a little retrofitting. I have not had the door panels off so I’m not sure how much room is back there to do such. To add to door speaker questions, is it worth it to cut holes for components or should I just run coaxials? If I were to run components, it would only be in the front doors. Got any pictures of the doors with the panels off and/or pictures of tweeters mounted in the doors? As of now, I am leaning towards JL C2 650’s in front and C2 650X in the rear or 650x’s in all 4

Dash speakers. To run them or not is the question. The reference 405 is a 400w 5 channel amp and I only want to run one amp. I’m gonna have to do some research with the soundstream gurus to see if there’s a way to run 4 doors and 2 dash off the main channels. If dash speakers are a must for good SQ, and the amp won’t support it, I will consider running a second small amp but prefer not to.

Sub/subs. I am really torn on what to run for subs. I really want to run 2 10’s (JL 10w3 or 10Tw3’s) but box and amp space has me leaning towards a single 12 (JL 12w3). Fox box and net audio seem to be the two best options for pre fab boxes. If I go single 12 I can go with the net audio box with a built in amp rack which would net me 1 cubic ft of air space and be a much easier amp install. If I go two 10’s, I would have plenty of volume but I would have to build an amp rack on the back wall which I’m not sure what’s behind the seats or how easy it would be to access to make adjustments etc.. Info on back of seat space is appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time to read and I appreciate any feedback you can offer. I’m not looking for a competition build, just some good SQ and a clean install. I live in Northern California if there’s any local shops that I should consider buying equipment from but I do plan on doing my own install unless the install labor cost makes financial sense (usually doesn’t to me, lol). IMG_2652.jpeg
 

tron67j

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A couple of things I can offer:

Your SS amp should work fine as you are having it serviced. It should make up to 40 watts per channel which is pretty good. You should pop radio out (pretty easy) to see what cables you are working with. Door panels also come off pretty easy, you can look at the space there. My two cents, try upgrading speakers in existing space to see how it sounds before cutting.

No, the amp doesn't power the sub amp, IMHO they both need their own dedicated power lines which will help minimize any problems.

You can use your head unit or upgrade, that is a personal preference. You could reach out to the great folks at Crutchfield, they have a lot of
knowledge and can answer any questions about their products and interoperability.

Do a search on back seat removal, not hard and you can do a mod on the plastic holder to allow easier access over time.

Keep us updated on what you do. Good luck.
 

schaff1172

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Hayden, Idaho
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Hemi 5.7
Without making this a short novel I would strongly suggest keeping the factory H/U and get the Audio Control LC7i LOC...I had to put my 8" Uconnect back in because my 10.4 T style touch screen died and this LOC has been the missing link my system has been missing the last 2yrs. YouTube has many videos explaining what other good things this LOC does and why it's a game changer! Im running 2 12" Rockford Fosgate 4ohm dvc P3's at 1ohm in a custom Fox Box under the backseat of my 2016 Ram 1500 BigHorn and 2 12" Rockford Fosgate 4ohm dvc Power Series T0's at 1ohm in ported boxes that I made and I have them on top of the backseats. For front/rear doors I went with Infinity reference 3 way 6x9s in the rear and Infinity reference component 6x9 woofer that came with the tweets and crossovers in the front doors for mid bass and highs (I disconnected the 3.5" speakers in the dash). For amps I got the Rockford Fosgate T1000 BD/CP Power Series monoblock pushing 1598 watts to the T0's, Rockford Fosgate R2-1200 Prime Series monoblock pushing 1462 watts to the P3's and a Rockford Fosgate P600X4 Punch Series 4 channel pushing 821 watts to the door speakers. I've done the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge cable and installed a 220 watt alternator. I use KnuKoncepts for all my wiring and distribution/fuse boxes. Anyways...I honestly think you would be impressed with the Audio LOC, it blew my mind how much it improved the sound quality in my truck!!!
 

TomT

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Instead of a LOC, get a PAC Audio AmpPRO. Trying to use a LOC on the Alpine system is just asking for trouble. With the PAC unit, you'll have full range RCA outputs to feed a DSP or amps.

Edited to add, our trucks lend themselves beautifully to 3 way components. Midbass in the doors, midrange in the dash corners, tweeters in the sail panels.
 
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