Stock 2016 Uconnect 5 stereo speaker assignments, quad cab 6 speaker

[JimGregory]

I would like to know once and for all what the dash speakers, front door speakers and back door speakers are pre crossed over for, at the amp.
If the dash and front door speakers are joined, then I would think they are full range peroid.
If the dash speakers are low filtered and the front doors are not, then either they are not joined or the crossover is in the line somewhere after the amp.
If the rear door speakers have no highs (mine don't) then they must have a high filter.
I just installed 3.5 inch JBL dash speakers, JBL 3 way 6x9 front door speakers and 2 way JBL 6x9 rear door speakers. Stock 5.0 head unit.
The dash speakers are WAY to loud but sound great. Can't hear the front door speakers though. I have some 5 ohm resistors on the way. I have reinstalled the stock speakers meanwhile.
The front door triaxials sound great. I believe they are right for the job.
The back door coaxials sound like woofers. I believe they are wrong for the job.
The dashboard coaxials may be wrong for the job as well. I get nice highs from the door speakers already and with the stock dash speakers it actually sounds real good.
I believe I got crap advise from Tina at Crutchfield. I expressed mu concern about the low impedance dash speakers being to loud and she said it wouldnt be an issue. It surely IS an issue.
Anyway I just wish to know what the speaker outputs are PRE filtered for.
If anyone know for sure.

 

[crash68]

The factory dash "speaker" is wired in parallel with the door speaker. A 2.2uf capacitor hardwired onto the terminal, so it's essentially a tweeter. It's an 8ohm driver so that is a 9KHZ 6db low pass filter.

 

[JimGregory]

Sounds like you speak sound language. I don't.
I get the the dash speaker is an 8 ohm driver and that the 2.2uF capacitor is on the speaker side of the connection to the speaker. Right?
So I installed a 3ohm (or so) coaxial driver in it's place. There was a hard wired crossover for the tweeter already soldered in.
It SHOULD be louder then the factory speaker, and it is. Much.
So. Waiting on a 5ohm resistor.
I have a question. Included in the box from JBL, is a capacitor marked 270 uF 50 WV. It is meant to be placed inline with the positive terminal. Or it CAN be. But it needs to be soldered in. It's just a raw cap.
Being that I do NOT speak sound language, what the hell will this thing do for me. The numbers sure don't scream HIGH PASS to me. Will it attenuate the whole range? That would suit me if it just quieted the thing down. So what's it for I wonder?
I started studying up on all this and realized I would have to start from the beginning. Maybe I could sort it out, only to promptly forget everything when I finished. Much easier just to ask someone who might know.
I may try to call JBL tomorrow.

 

[adurm]

I believe that 270uf will be about 150hz high pass for 4 ohm. Splice it into the positive wire to protect the 3.5 cone. The tweet already has protection. Side note, you have alot of tweeters now. Too many? I would return the front door and dash ones and get a set of 6.5 or 6x9 components and put the tweet in the dash.

 

[JimGregory]

I believe that 270uf will be about 150hz high pass for 4 ohm. Splice it into the positive wire to protect the 3.5 cone. The tweet already has protection. Side note, you have alot of tweeters now. Too many? I would return the front door and dash ones and get a set of 6.5 or 6x9 components and put the tweet in the dash.

If I add the 4.5 ohm resistor to the JBL 3.5's and it does what I want cleanly, then they will be like the stock dash speakers, but better. Maybe with the 270uF cap even better yet?
I BELIEVE that the rear door speakers are not getting any highs from the amp already (still no confirmation on that), so a good case for component woofers back there. There are no highs coming out of those coaxials back there. Maybe with the front door tri's I will be over tweeted. We will see when all is said and done.
And another thing to throw in the mix. If I play the same MP3 from my thumb drive and from my Iphone at the same time, and switch back and forth from one to the other, the Iphone version sounds much better. Like MUCH better. Sweeter, cleaner, deeper and crisper.. Same exact file. I must research that!

Spoke to JBL support this morning. Some guy in India named Jim. I can handle the truth guys. No need to give western names.
Anyway he looked it up and said the 270uF is indeed a high pass for the woofer if you feel the need.
Also my fancy 4.5 ohm resistors arrived.

 

[adurm]

I suspect the iphone one has some kind of effects applied. Usb should sound better than bt with no effects added.

Those resistors will probably get warm if not hot. I think capacitors do too. So plan accordingly and give them room to breathe. Without the caps, they will likely distort with bass.

I wouldn't do a thing to the rear speakers. Let them be barely audible.

If you have a gmail, you could pm me and I'll zip you a bunch of clean wav files or mp3 if you prefer.

 

[JimGregory]

I think I am finished for now.
As Adurm said I was over tweeted. If I had it to do all over I would put 6x9 woofers in the back. 6x9 woofers in the front door. And tweeters in the A pillars. I would disconnect the dash speakers.
What I DID do is put 6x9 JBL coaxes in the rear doors. 6x9 JBL triaxes in the front door and modified JBL 3.5's in the dash.
The dash speakers were WAY to loud in every respect. A 4 ohm(or so) speaker replacing an 8 ohm speaker. Not good. So I got some 4.5 ohm resistors. Still too much. So I added a high pass filter AND disconnected the tweeters. Now it sounds nice. Very nice. Very articulate. I think I like it. I will live with it a bit to get used to it.
BTW at this point I believe the rear door speakers are low passed BEFORE the speaker connection.
I believe now that the front door and dash speaker feeds are full range. The OEM dash speaker has a high pass filter built onto it.
Again this is the base radio with 6 speakers.