Stuck in a nightmare, need advice ASAP...

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Yeret

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As you may know (General Discussion), pops and I were working on the plenum repair on my truck.

And after successfully removing 10 of 12 bolts (those rear corner ones were a PITA, but I get 'em) the final 2 front corner bolts busted on me (*** *** *** *** ***!)

Today, we gathered some stuff to try and attack the shafts that are sticking out of the head. After having no luck with a vice grips and a torch (and I had the ******** soaking in penetrating oil for the last two days), we resorted to trying to drill them out.

Center punch, 1/8" hole later, the 1/4 inch bit wouldn't bite through (these were left-handed bits with a reversible drill), so we went straight to an extractor that would fit.

Pops used a crescent wrench to crank it in, went in no problem. He then tried cranking it out and then SNAP! ****ing extractor tip busted right off, flush with the bolt surface...

What are my options now? Best we can think, the heads gotta be pulled and taken to a machine shop. Really could use some advice here 'cause this truck is my daily driver. I can borrow Gramps' truck for now, but I really REALLY can't bank on driving it for more than a week...

For those that are curious, the plenum gasket was TOAST. What was left broke apart like cracked china. After flipping the intake upside down and removing the pan, there was a strong shot's worth of oil sitting in there. The pan was completely saturated in oil. All I can say is WOW...
 

auskip07

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Having snapped hard carbon steel extractor in a bolt i was removing im gonna have to say you have no choice but to take it to a professional or try to weld a nut on the tip (if you can get to it.


By the way my pops was also the one to snap the extractor in the bolt using a crescent wrench too much lateral force to use on an extractor

1 word Kroil Better than any other brand penetrating lube they sell at auto stores.
 
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Yeret

Yeret

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Well guys, I've been giving things a little thought and honestly, for all the hassle I'm going through and knowing the weakness of the OEM heads and the fact that they could probably use a bit of work anyway, I'm considering just buying a whole different set.

Looking at Odessa's shop, they got two different listings for our engines, one for remanufactured heads, another for brand new.

Reman

New

I'm assuming these are the same heads, just remanned vs new? I could swing either or, buuut, $140 is $140...
 

jsmith

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Yep since it doesn't specify on the reman ones that they have the thicker casting I'd assume they don't but call and make sure
 
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Yeret

Yeret

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I inquired. The remans are indeed uncracked OEMs, the new ones are aftermarkets with thicker castings.

So, looks like the new ones the way to go. However, I've found that the Engine Quest and Hughes heads are particularly popular. Problem is, they're a grand for a pair and that really stretches my budget.

Would I be out anything by buying this set for nearly half the price? I know you get what you pay for, but I really need to move now. Can't stand borrowing other people's vehicles.

On the other hand, I could probably have my current ones rebuilt for cheaper yet. However, after reading through many forums, it seems the OEMs are very prone to cracking. Degreasing/magnafluxing is gonna cost around $100 for the pair (!!!). And if they're *****'d then that's $100 for nothing...

Has anyone who has pulled their heads have any luck reusing them? Or am I pretty much assured that I'll have to shell out for new ones?
 

Merc225hp

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Yes I have and yes they can be fixed but one time deal and a shop must do the work.
 
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Yeret

Yeret

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Your heads were cracked, then? Yet, they could be fixed? That's interesting, though I suppose the location of the crack would be the main determining factor.

How much did it cost to recondition yours?
 

dapepper9

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I would just get the new heads with thicker castings. Odessa is a good shop i doubt you get screwed and it will help to keep em from cracking in the future
 

1SilverBullet2

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I'd recommend new heads, dont even waste your time or money on reman crap. Half the time they break/wear out in half the time than oem. I'm running new oddessa thicker casted heads and you can see some difference in the casting between heads. I've heard that the oddessa heads, even tho stock casting, flow a small amount more than oem heads. Don't count me on that although.
 

Merc225hp

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Your heads were cracked, then? Yet, they could be fixed? That's interesting, though I suppose the location of the crack would be the main determining factor.

How much did it cost to recondition yours?

Yes my factory heads were cracked in four of the valve seats, that's were they crack. Under the valve seat as well the head itself. Clean up that area with a good wire brush and if thay are cracked you will see it very clearly.

I have a set of cific heads, yes thicker casting heads. I don't think they are in business any more and they were not cheap.

To repair the heads is about $400 for both that includes a full rebuild of the heads.
 
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Yeret

Yeret

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Interesting stuff. Considering the costs, I'm probably just gonna shell out for the new Odessas.

On another note. While disassembling everything, I noticed that my TPS sounds like a broken lightbulb when you shake it. Is this normal or should I replace it?
 

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