Thoughts on the C/V axle play? Video inside

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Hello everyone ,

Just leveled my 2012 Outdoorsman with Bilsteins... Did new lower control arms as well.

I noticed some play in both CV axles when I was under there. The passagenger side has more play for sure. The boots are in good shape and I dont have any wobbles or noise (even drove it in 4x4 for a bit today.

Just looking to get thoughts on the amount of play as it appears that it's at the shaft into the diff.

Hoping I can just keep driving it until actual symptoms come up.

Thanks everyone

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[muddy12]

Mine is a big horn, but it’s a 2012 1500 also.
I’m just coming to the end of a long vibration saga, and have basically rebuilt the entire front end, from the dif out.
Even with new CV shafts, I still have an unsettling amount of play at the CV to intermediate shaft joints.

As far as I know, only the driver side intermediate shaft is replaceable. In order to replace the passenger side, you have to get the whole dif assembly.

My plan at the moment, unless I find a smoking deal on a 2500, is to swap in a solid front axle when the intermediate shafts go out.



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[RamOutdoorsman12]

Surprisingly the pass side CV was free (not seized) and I popped it off of the intermediate shaft the splines look fine, how were your splines? Did your intermediate shaft have any play where it enters the diff?

All of the play seems to be coming from the CV side's splines but I have no vibration.

 

[muddy12]

Both of my CV shafts came free from the intermediate shafts easily, they were not seized at all. The intermediate shafts were tight in the dif, and the splines appeared fine, which is why I decided to only replace the CV’s. In hind sight, I should have checked the OD of the splines on the intermediate shafts to confirm their condition because the new CV’s have just as much play at the old ones.

The driver side intermediate is readily available, and easy to change. I did read in another thread that someone had potentially found a source for the passenger side intermediate shaft, but I believe it required, at least partial,disassembly of the dif housing to install it. I just never followed up with it.

Granted, I’m happy with everything else about my truck(except for the IFS),and I have no need for the higher towing/cargo capacity of a 2500, I almost wish I would have bought a 2500, just for the solid front axle.

 

[muddy12]

Oh yeah, my vibration ended up being caused by a very minimal amount of play (only a couple thousandths) in the upper and lower ball joints, and the steering rack.


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[ram1500rsm]

Mine is a big horn, but it’s a 2012 1500 also.
I’m just coming to the end of a long vibration saga, and have basically rebuilt the entire front end, from the dif out.
Even with new CV shafts, I still have an unsettling amount of play at the CV to intermediate shaft joints.

As far as I know, only the driver side intermediate shaft is replaceable. In order to replace the passenger side, you have to get the whole dif assembly.

My plan at the moment, unless I find a smoking deal on a 2500, is to swap in a solid front axle when the intermediate shafts go out.



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What would you use a donor for you front axel ? and how much more or less can we expect to pay for such swap?

 

[muddy12]

No idea on exact cost, as I already have a set of D-60’s in the barn, that I originally got for a Jeep project. I never got around to installing them, and sold the Jeep.

Biggest hurdle, if I use the axles I have, is going to be the wheel speed sensors.

4th gen 2500 axles would be a little easier, as the speed sensors “should” be compatible.

I have a parts list on my work computer, when I get in tomorrow, I’ll find/post it.


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[RamOutdoorsman12]

So my problems continue... while installing the new CV today I spun the passenger side intermediate shaft by hand and I can hear a ringing noise coming from behind the metal seal plate. It sounds like a bearing or something making noise in there. I'm stuck debating between putting it all back together and hoping for the best. Or opening up the diff and removing the house and shaft and inspecting it.

Anyone know if there are bearings close to right behind that seal plate? Can they be purchased?

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Also this may be a stupid question but if my axle ratio is 3.92, then it would be for front and rear correct?

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

No idea on exact cost, as I already have a set of D-60’s in the barn, that I originally got for a Jeep project. I never got around to installing them, and sold the Jeep.

Biggest hurdle, if I use the axles I have, is going to be the wheel speed sensors.

4th gen 2500 axles would be a little easier, as the speed sensors “should” be compatible.

I have a parts list on my work computer, when I get in tomorrow, I’ll find/post it.


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Def interested in doing the same, always thought some PW axles would be sweet (maybe not the cheapest but I was thinking wheel speed sensors and what not would keep the computers happy).

I would LOVE to sas my truck!!!

Sorry OP, no hijack intended.

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Def interested in doing the same, always thought some PW axles would be sweet (maybe not the cheapest but I was thinking wheel speed sensors and what not would keep the computers happy).

I would LOVE to sas my truck!!!

Sorry OP, no hijack intended.

No problem! Just looking to get some questions answered before calling salvage yards tomorrow

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Also this may be a stupid question but if my axle ratio is 3.92, then it would be for front and rear correct?

Yes, they would be the same front and rear.

As for the question about the bearings, I have no idea. I don’t think any passenger side parts are available (intermediate/CAD internals) however, I do seem to remember reading about the aftermarket “kit” and it contained bearings and seals along with a new shaft.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Check out this thread if you haven’t already seen it, looks like bearings and seals are included.


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2012-and-up-ram-1500-passenger-side-intermediate-shafts.129667/

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Check out this thread if you haven’t already seen it, looks like bearings and seals are included.


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2012-and-up-ram-1500-passenger-side-intermediate-shafts.129667/

Thanks I've seen a few threads where that kit was mentioned but couldn't find it. For that price I'm hoping I could find a lower mileage front differential for the truck. I'm just hoping someone could clue me in as to what the ringing / scratching noise could be coming from just behind that metal seal. I've checked some Mopar parts diagrams but can't tell if there's a bearing behind there. As you said this information isn't readily available as Mopar lists this as (non serviceable)

 

[muddy12]

Couldn't find my original list, but going from memory, here's what I came up with.

1: axle(s)
A: Second gen D44. This may be an option if you can get gearing to match the factory rear, and may even allow the use of factory wheels. However, I have not done much research on using a second gen axle. YMMV

B: Set of matching front and rear axles. 4th gen 25/3500 or power wagon would be the easiest, but likely most expensive.

2: suspension.
For the rear, I planned on keeping the coil and link setup, and just moving the axle bracktery over to the new axle.
For the front, if using 25/3500 axles, the easiest option would be to also get all of the suspension links from the donor vehicle, and add mounting brackets to the 1500 frame. My plan was to fabricate a custom cross member and long arms, and use coil overs attached to the factory upper strut mounts.

3: steering.
Again, sourcing parts from the axle donor would be easiest, but a steering box and drag link will be needed. the 1500 rack and pinion won't work with a solid axle.

4: Drive shafts.
most likely, custom drive shafts will be needed, but depending on final axle placement, you may be able to get by with using conversion U-joints.

5: brakes.
New longer flex lines "should" be all that would be needed to hook up the brakes although I have not confirmed this.

6: electrical/speed sensors
????????????????????????

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Couldn't find my original list, but going from memory, here's what I came up with.

1: axle(s)
A: Second gen D44. This may be an option if you can get gearing to match the factory rear, and may even allow the use of factory wheels. However, I have not done much research on using a second gen axle. YMMV

B: Set of matching front and rear axles. 4th gen 25/3500 or power wagon would be the easiest, but likely most expensive.

2: suspension.
For the rear, I planned on keeping the coil and link setup, and just moving the axle bracktery over to the new axle.
For the front, if using 25/3500 axles, the easiest option would be to also get all of the suspension links from the donor vehicle, and add mounting brackets to the 1500 frame. My plan was to fabricate a custom cross member and long arms, and use coil overs attached to the factory upper strut mounts.

3: steering.
Again, sourcing parts from the axle donor would be easiest, but a steering box and drag link will be needed. the 1500 rack and pinion won't work with a solid axle.

4: Drive shafts.
most likely, custom drive shafts will be needed, but depending on final axle placement, you may be able to get by with using conversion U-joints.

5: brakes.
New longer flex lines "should" be all that would be needed to hook up the brakes although I have not confirmed this.

6: electrical/speed sensors
????????????????????????

Anything is possible, but I feel like precision fab work is needed here. Adding brackets to the frame is one thing but getting everything correctly to ensure proper alignment is going to be key. The opinion here seems to be that trading up to a 3/4 or 1 ton is the most cost effective way to go.

 

[muddy12]

................... The opinion here seems to be that trading up to a 3/4 or 1 ton is the most cost effective way to go.

May be true for most, but for me at least, doing a SAS would cost less. That is mostly due to me already having axles, and all of (or access to all of) the fab tools I would need. The last SAS I did was on an old Toyota truck. While it is a smaller chassis, the same basic concepts apply. The biggest thing is that you have to measure, measure, and measure again. Then you tack weld and measure one last time before final welding.

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

May be true for most, but for me at least, doing a SAS would cost less. That is mostly due to me already having axles, and all of (or access to all of) the fab tools I would need. The last SAS I did was on an old Toyota truck. While it is a smaller chassis, the same basic concepts apply. The biggest thing is that you have to measure, measure, and measure again. Then you tack weld and measure one last time before final welding.

It would be awesome to follow you through the process if you decide to go that route