Towing Plus Cargo PW 2500

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Jram2

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Recently towed a Conqueror UEV 440 camping trailer with my PW 2500 with minor cargo in the bed, around 500 lbs. This same trailer and cargo were towed by a Landcruiser 200 with upgraded springs (400 lbs Old Man Emu). I was surprised how much the rear sagged, leaving the front high and causing a lot of trailer wobble. I was way below the rated capacity for both cargo (500 lbs) and trailer (2,500 lbs). Is this a common issue, do I need to upgrade the springs or would it be better to install airbags?
 

crash68

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Despite it being a 2500, due to the softer suspension of a PowerWagon is basically has the payload capacity of a half ton truck. I'm sure a few will chime in but airbags (AirLift 5000 w/Daystar cradles) are the usual route to maintain the off-road capability of the truck.
You trailer sway was probably due to how it was loaded and/or how level the trailer was. It may also been affected by the tow vehicle sitting higher which would allow more air to hit the trailer from under the vehicle.
Do you have an adjustable height hitch?
 
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Jram2

Jram2

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Thanks for the feedback. The trailer wasn't level and there was no time to adjust the usual last-minute getaway. The wobble would kick in on bumpy roads above 60 mph. Pulled it on two short trips before without cargo in the bed and it was stable as a rock!. I will check out the AirLift's as suggested.

Cheers!
 

Dean2

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Another vote for putting bags on the back to level the truck out loaded. As far as the trailer wagging, that is strictly loading the trailer wrong, too much weight ahead of or behind the trailer axles. If the hitch is nose down that will exacerbate the problem, but the main issue is where the weight is. The cargo in the truck bed is effectively unrelated, if anything that would make pulling MORE stable as the tow vehicle is heavier.

This is an excellent video, I suggest you watch it all the way through.

 
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Jram2

Jram2

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Great video, thanks for sharing. The Conqueror UEV440 has all storage compartments built-in, there isn't really too much room to adjust the loading. Looking at the video and the trailer sway experienced, the trailer gooseneck was much lower because of the cargo in the bed causing the truck to squat. I think that's the leading cause as I've had the trailer since 2017 and pulled it behind a Landcruiser until recently. I don't have a lot of experience with the Power Wagon towing this trailer. In hindsight, I should have bought an adjustable tow hitch to level it out.

Thanks for the feedback, just checking out bags, seems like a damn good option.
 

2003F350

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I've got no idea any of the specs on your trailer, but looking it up it looks like your empty weight is actually almost 3000 lbs, and your loaded is about 4k, not 2500. So you're actually at a much higher weight than you thought. That's going to be a contributing factory.

That said, I used to routinely pull a flatbed (7k GVW steel trailer) with (3) quads on it (weighing roughly 400 lbs each, most of them in front of the axles, very little behind them), AND two dirt bikes in the bed (probably 300 lbs total?). I would tow it behind my '17 Wagon at 65mph all day and have zero issues.

I also pulled our 35' TT behind that same truck, and for about a year after we first got it I couldn't run over 62 mph, even with the sway bar cranked as far as I could get it. So I tinkered with it, took the angle out of the WDH and put some weight back on the truck (squat went from about .75" to about 1.25"), and I could run almost 70 if needed with no sway.

Where I'm going with this is, you've got to play around with loading, and try to get things a bit more leveled out. You may find you need a WDH, but with that little weight I wouldn't think so. I think the biggest thing fighting you is that your trailer is a single axle, and it doesn't take much to get those bouncing and swaying all over the place.

Air bags are the route of last choice - they basically mask whatever issues you might be having.
 

Travelin Ram

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Pictures or measurements of the sag and actual measured weights might be interesting. In my experience 500 lb in the bed won’t result in a nose high condition.

I routinely pull a 28’ enclosed trailer with a tongue weight around 900# with no weight distribution, and no stability issues.

A short, high, single axle trailer will be very sensitive to instability from incorrect tongue weight or un level operation.
 
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Jram2

Jram2

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@2003F350 You are right, the trailer loaded is actually around 4k lbs loaded. I had not considered a WDH, this looks to be the first low cost option. When it comes to loading, we were loaded light this trip, compared to 14 day overland trips and having just moved from a Toyota Landcruiser LC200 with 200KG springs in the back, I was surprised and disappointed the truck squatted this much with a lower load than previously carried. Just read a great article "Ram Power Wagon - An excellent platform for overland adventure" which highlights the sensitivity this truck has to load, even when not towing. I get the engineering focus has been on highway & offroad vehicle performance.

@Travelin Ram Unfortunately, as it was a last minute trip no measurements or pictures were taken, finished packing at 03:00 AM and hit the road. I need to finish my homework on this, the plug and pray approach bit me in the ass on this trip.

Starting easy to complex this is what Ive gained from the above and additional reading:

1. Adjust the loading - This is limited with the trailer as it is designed with purpose built storage compartments so no flexibility to adjust. All I can play with is the cargo carried in the bed of the truck.

2. Install WDH. - Not suitable for off road...

3. Air Bags

4. Springs

5. Air Bags + Springs + Rear Sway Bar

Will do a cost/benefit on the above and repost once ive sussed it out.

Thanks for all the input guys, will post pictures and measurements once all loaded again.
 
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OC455

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2. Install WDH. - Not suitable for off road...
Disconnect the weight distribution bars before going off road, especially if you aren't going any type of speed.

3. Air Bags
Are you referring to the bags that go inside of the rear coil springs or actual air springs? I used
air springs for stabilizing load more than anything. I only had 14psi of air in my Timber Grove ASAMs when hooked up with my WDH towing my TT.

4. Springs
Heavier rate springs in the PW will change the ride....more than likely not needed.

Level out your trailer, get a good WDH and go from there. Probably won't need anything else more. Disconnect the weight distribution bars before going off road.
 
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Jram2

Jram2

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OC455 - Thanks for the feedback and pragmatic approach. The intended bags are spring assist like the Airlift 5000 recommended above, separate bags as opposed to bags in springs.
 

OC455

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As far as mentioning the air springs with the Daystar cradles, that would be the route to go if you plan on going with AirLift 5000's or Timber Grove ASAMs.
 
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