Towing

[2017dodge]

I have a 2017 1500. Tow capacity is 4210 from what i can see. Axel ratio 3.21 with a quad cab 4x4. Looking at getting a camper for the family. The one we are looking at is around 3800 lbs. Can we tow with this? Pretty new to towing. Thanks.

 

[tron67j]

The maximum tow value is with minimal weight in cab and bed of truck with proper distribution of weight in trailer.

You need your payload capacity to accurately calculate your trailer towing value. Assuming a 4x4 quad cab 6.4 bed with 5.7, your payload capacity is about 1500. Subtract say 4 people (500 lbs) plus bikes, hitch, and stuff in bed (200 lbs) leaves you 800 pounds of payload capacity for trailer towing. With 15% of trailer weight on hitch (general standard to start with) your maximum trailer weight is approximately 800 / .15 = gives a very maximum 5,300 pounds for trailer and stuff inside. You definitely want to find a lighter camper and in this scenario a 4,200 pound trailer with maybe 409 or so pounds of weight in it could work, but there are some things to consider. Tires must be in good shape, properly inflated and have a higher load range. A 10 year old truck may have weaker springs from use so that may reduce your trailer towing capability. Don't look for gimmicks like air bags that may claim to increase towing, they don't and only mask an overloaded truck. Use sway bars and a properly adjusted weight distribution hitch along with a brake controller.

Good luck.

 

[dhay13]

Was there a 2017 1500 with only 4000lb tow capacity? Are we sure he is looking at the right numbers? In my opinion there are 3 numbers you need to pay attention to. The first two I feel are equally important...those are your GCWR. This is the max number your truck and trailer can weigh, which will include all cargo, people, fuel, everything. Second is your GRAWR. This is the max amount of weight you can have on your rear axles with everything fully loaded. Exceeding these numbers can lead to premature bearing failure, axle failure, etc. Not saying it will happen but is something you need to pay attention to. Third is payload. In my opinion if you are good on the first two you are probably safe on the third as long as you aren't extremely over. But if you were extremely over then you would probably have violated one of the first two.

 

[pacofortacos]

The tow capacity on the V6 is pretty low, so might be around 4000 lbs.

It really depends on where you plan on towing. Big hills won't be very pleasant and highway speeds will be pushing the 3.6 capacity.

 

[62Blazer]

You can get real technical with the numbers.......but the fact is that is a pretty small trailer. If the truck is rated for 4,200 lbs. then why would it be unsafe to tow 3,800 lbs.? The manufacturer is not taking the liability associated with saying the towing capacity of the truck is in the unsafe range. It's generally the opposite, where the factory towing rated is very conservative.
The payload of a V-6 powered Ram is higher than the V-8's, so tongue weight should not be an issue. If you compare the rating of the V-6 3.21 geared version versus the 3.55 and/or V-8 it tells me it's only engine power causing the lower rating. The chassis (handling and brakes) are identical to the higher rated models. I don't consider engine power the cause for safety concerns when towing! it's whether you can stop and keep going straight down the road.

 

[2003F350]

You can get real technical with the numbers.......but the fact is that is a pretty small trailer. If the truck is rated for 4,200 lbs. then why would it be unsafe to tow 3,800 lbs.? The manufacturer is not taking the liability associated with saying the towing capacity of the truck is in the unsafe range. It's generally the opposite, where the factory towing rated is very conservative.
The payload of a V-6 powered Ram is higher than the V-8's, so tongue weight should not be an issue. If you compare the rating of the V-6 3.21 geared version versus the 3.55 and/or V-8 it tells me it's only engine power causing the lower rating. The chassis (handling and brakes) are identical to the higher rated models. I don't consider engine power the cause for safety concerns when towing! it's whether you can stop and keep going straight down the road.

Because an RV is different from a flatbed that they are getting the 4200 lb rating with. RVs are MASSIVE sails, even with the light trailer OP is looking at. They also tend to have higher tongue weights than advertised (though not always), which means they're putting more weight on the truck. And the load is pretty static; you can't really move much of the weight around in an RV to stay inside your numbers.

But you are correct that the engine size (and gearing, 3.21's aren't exactly towing gears) is what is limiting the tow rating, and with an RV that engine will struggle as the camper gets bigger due to the increased frontal area. More frontal area = more aerodynamic drag, which increases the stress on the engine.

OP is doing the right thing by looking at smaller rigs.

 

[dhay13]

I missed the V6 part but my response still applies. As long as your GCVWR is below limits I think everything else will fall into place

 

[CaptOchs]

2017 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4WD, 3.6L V-6, 4,430 lbs (a8,d)
*d=3:21

A good rule of thumb is 70% of tow capacity. The 3800 lb trailer would be a little over, (70%=3101 lbs). At 86% capacity, I'd look for a different trailer. You're at the upper limits of that truck. If you have your heart set on the trailer, it might work. You'd have to pack bare essentials; shop at stores when you get there / pack stuff in second vehicle. I wouldn't tow far (over a few hundred miles.) Avoid towing in steep hills for long periods. If there are steep grades, look for alternate routes. Don't tow fast. Don't expect to do 70. Keep it around 60 mph.

 

[rvance]

I have a 17 QC V6 and I have towed a 4400 pound trailer thousands of miles. I made some changes that made it much easier to tow. 10 ply tires, AirLift air bags on the back with 20lbs of air and everything is stable and easy. Be sure to keep your tongue weight to 11-15%. I bought a tongue scale to be sure.

 

[Bob Horowski]

As previously stated, do not just look at the weight of the trailer EMPTY consider all the gear you will be putting into it. Water is not light, coolers full of food and drinks, and gear add up quickly changing the weight of the trailer and it's handling.

 

[jh90731]

Here's the official capacity chart for your year. Find your exact model and configuration and look at the numbers. Don't exceed the recommendations for your vehicle. Any incident with an overweight vehicle opens up liability opportunities not to mention safety issues. Have fun with your camper. We tow a teardrop style with our Ram and it's been a blast getting to fun, out of the way places.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2017_ram_1500_towing_charts.pdf?utm_source=copilot.com

 

[dhay13]

Not to derail but today I was on the PA turnpike and was behind a guy driving an extended cab Dakota. Maybe a 2004-ish. He was towing about a 16' tandem axle car trailer with a farm tractor on it. I was pretty sure he was gonna lose it. He was all over the road and about 6" from the guardrail at one point until he hit his brakes and pulled over. Some people think if they have a truck they can tow anything

 

[Havoc1649]

If you have a 4WD your max is 4,430 and the 2WD is 4610. Looking at the 3.55 gears the limit is 7,420. So that gives you an idea of why you have a low rating. It probably isn’t the truck frame, the tongue weight (likely around 10% of the 7420 number) or payload, it’s the motor and specifically gears.

What does this mean? It means you’re taking a pretty big gamble with a trailer that size. The 3800 pound number is “dry”. This means that is the weight of the trailer with nothing in it, no water etc. Your camper will weigh a fair amount more once loaded up. It’s not just what you put in it. You have battery weight, full propane tanks, etc. I can almost guarantee you’ll be at max and that will be with all water tanks drained. Once you get into the hills and wind, your transmission is unlikely to last long. It will get hot and it’s unlikely you have any heavy duty oil cooler/transmission cooler etc. What I’m getting at is you will need a different tow vehicle to get a travel trailer.

I’ve towed a lot of things over the years, but a travel trailer is the one I’ve always felt I needed to be most careful with. I have a 34 footer that is 7,000 dry, but around 8,000 loaded. It’s a big sail and that is a really big factor that is often underestimated by people. It’s a completely different animal than pulling equipment or vehicles. Without massive wind resistance you can play a little closer to the edge of the envelope, but it’s almost universally a bad idea with a travel trailer.

What are your options and what do I recommend?

No one wants to hear they need a different vehicle, but you’re pretty much limited to a pop up style camper with your setup. So that’s one option to think about. I’ve camped in pop up’s and they work pretty well.

The good news about a new tow vehicle is if you want to stick with the 3,800 pounder, you have a plethora of well priced options. Any full size pickup other than one with the smallest motor and lowest gear ratio will work. Most of the mid size trucks like your rangers, Canyons, or Tacoma will get the job done if it has the factory tow package. Any full size SUV will be plenty adequate if it has a tow package. So there are many options available.

Weight distribution hitch/sway bars and a vehicle rated for the weight. That’s what I’d recommend. The risk simply isn’t worth it otherwise, so a pop up would be the other option. Good luck and enjoy! A camper is probably the best buy we’ve ever made!