Vibration after level, new rims, new tires..

[Stu4x4]

Recently I had bilsteins put under all 4 corners, new atx mojave ii's, and 35x12.5x17 bfg at's put on the truck. I have a vibration at 50-55mph that I can't figure out. I don't feel any real vibration in the steering wheel, it's mostly felt in the seat, and almost feels more like a hop, than a wobble. Before the install it ran smooth at all speeds.

So far I have had the rear tires road force balanced, new brakes/rotors, I wanted to try hub rings but they can't be used on the mojave's due to the center cap so I went with et-lugs to help make sure the wheels were centered.

Still have the vibration... I'll take any and all suggestions on what else can be causing vibration at this speed. I have tried a few different tire shops and no one can give me any ideas on fixing the problem.




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[Dbjb]

What wheels/tires were you running before? Did you lift too? 4wd I assume or is it 2wd?


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[Dbjb]

Btw I’ve never used et lug nuts before. I see they have an additional shank to provide more locking threads?

If you have a wheel with a bore larger than the hub and you are not using a hubcentric rings, it’s important that your conical lug nuts are tightened in a star pattern and a little at a time. I believe some shops tighten lug nuts so quickly with their guns that they don’t give the wheel time to center before applying 100’s lbs of force. That flat part of your lug nut would then pinch and crack the hole. Id take a look for that just in case.

Ps, did you remove the clips holding the rotors on before changing your wheels from stock?


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[shadowhawk]

yes... did you, or they, remove the brake rotor retaining clips first? when I rotated my tires, I pulled all those clips off.

 

[Stu4x4]

What wheels/tires were you running before? Did you lift too? 4wd I assume or is it 2wd?


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4x4, it was all stock before. Factory shocks, 17's, and the Goodyears it came with.

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[Stu4x4]

Yup clips are gone, and I have taken the wheels on and off several times trying to make sure they are centered well, and always relugged in star pattern.

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[Dbjb]

Hmmm... so you’re not lifted at all? Or maybe bilstien lift? Running 35’s I’d expect some lift.

Your wheels are fairly small and lightweight. Tires definitely will add mass and any imbalance will shine though but dang... trying to think what else it may be.


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[Dbjb]

I want to say try this simple fix but you already said they won’t work. although I don’t quite understand why the center cap would get in the way...

 

[Stu4x4]

I have a set of bora rings already, the center cap passes through the rear of the wheel and has a lip that stops it, the lip seats right where the ring would go.

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[Dbjb]

I have a set of bora rings already, the center cap passes through the rear of the wheel and has a lip that stops it, the lip seats right where the ring would go.

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Gotcha... okay try this. Pop off the caps. Drive with the center rings on. That way you’ll know if this is the problem. At least you’ll know for sure.



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[Gary2]

Myself and many others have the same issue . I used the factory 20s in hopes of not having a wheel issue . I have 35/12.50/20 BFG KO2 balanced on a Coates balancer at Mavis tire and rebalanced on a Hunter Road force balancer twice at a very knowledgeable shop . I initially had the Bilsteins on 2.1 and 3/4" poly spacer on the rear with the stock tires and wheels. You could feel a hint of a shimmy start when crossing over small bridges at about 60 mph that would just raise the suspension slightly with OE struts and Bilsteins. I thought maybe a tie rod end back then. Next I installed the 35" tires and then it would start to shake after you were up to speed ( 63mph or better ) for about 10-20 seconds but none while you were accelerating up to that speed. No effects felt in steering wheel just floor ,seat , center console. Its like the added weight of the tires made it more pronounced. Its at the same frequency as a tire out of balance more so than a bad u joint . Could be something with harmonics, maybe locking hubs would stop it but thats $1700.00 based on a guess. I am still playing with things in the rear end. I ordered new adjustable control arms so I can fine tune pinion angle and eliminate all of the soft Clevite bushings if nothing else to see if it has any effect at all to see if I am in the correct area. I am looking at things that others who have this issue have not touched as I don't know of anyone who has resolved this same issue yet. Some trucks have been bought back by the dealer because it could not be resolved so I look at what they didn't change . Try some searches as we are not alone but its a lot of repeated threads but you learn what has been tried already

 

[Dbjb]

Well just trying to rule out other things... make sure the shank on your lug nuts isn’t so long that you’re not truly tightening the wheel down enough.


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[wallacemf]

FWIW, I had a similar problem with a 2500 once. I had new 35s put on the oem wheels. The monkeys at the tire shop over torqued the rear, which warped the hubs slightly and caused some runout. You wouldn’t notice until it reached highway speeds. Felt it in the seat, and I could see the tailgate shaking in my mirror. Once the hubs were replaced the problem went away.

 

[Stu4x4]

I'll try that next. Lugs good, atx recommend those as the correct length and they don't stick through the back at all.



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[Stu4x4]

Myself and many others have the same issue . I used the factory 20s in hopes of not having a wheel issue . I have 35/12.50/20 BFG KO2 balanced on a Coates balancer at Mavis tire and rebalanced on a Hunter Road force balancer twice at a very knowledgeable shop . I initially had the Bilsteins on 2.1 and 3/4" poly spacer on the rear with the stock tires and wheels. You could feel a hint of a shimmy start when crossing over small bridges at about 60 mph that would just raise the suspension slightly with OE struts and Bilsteins. I thought maybe a tie rod end back then. Next I installed the 35" tires and then it would start to shake after you were up to speed ( 63mph or better ) for about 10-20 seconds but none while you were accelerating up to that speed. No effects felt in steering wheel just floor ,seat , center console. Its like the added weight of the tires made it more pronounced. Its at the same frequency as a tire out of balance more so than a bad u joint . Could be something with harmonics, maybe locking hubs would stop it but thats $1700.00 based on a guess. I am still playing with things in the rear end. I ordered new adjustable control arms so I can fine tune pinion angle and eliminate all of the soft Clevite bushings if nothing else to see if it has any effect at all to see if I am in the correct area. I am looking at things that others who have this issue have not touched as I don't know of anyone who has resolved this same issue yet. Some trucks have been bought back by the dealer because it could not be resolved so I look at what they didn't change . Try some searches as we are not alone but its a lot of repeated threads but you learn what has been tried already

I was concerned that the extra weight and stiffness of the tire may just be making a preexisting condition more pronounced as well.

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[Stu4x4]

FWIW, I had a similar problem with a 2500 once. I had new 35s put on the oem wheels. The monkeys at the tire shop over torqued the rear, which warped the hubs slightly and caused some runout. You wouldn’t notice until it reached highway speeds. Felt it in the seat, and I could see the tailgate shaking in my mirror. Once the hubs were replaced the problem went away.

This would not surprise me either, if they knew what they were doing in the first place they should have noticed the vibration simply driving after doing all the work.

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[Dbjb]

Yeah... I bought my wheels/tires from DTD. I mounted them myself. Although I can have them rotated for free at ATC, I think I’ll be the one to do it going forward. I just don’t trust these torque happy guys to care enough.


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[Gary2]

I think maybe a go pro attached underneath looking at different locations my help. Our transferase mount has a lot of rubber in that , maybe some kind of crazy harmonics being transferred to the transferase from the two driveshafts always spinning going through the TC transferred to the frame ? Can't understand why the manufactures would buy back trucks vs finding what it causing it . From what I understand Ford and Chevy's will do it too, which makes me think locking hubs to stop all of the heavier front end stuff from spinning . Then again none of my Wranglers do it and I have 35s on them too and no hubs . Feel like I am chasing my tail .

A side note , I have also replaced the CV Shafts as I had a vibe from one on an 03 1500 and that fixed it , no effect on this . I just turned 40,000 miles most all highway miles and never abused. Tried Rancho quick lift first along with rear Rancho 9000 shocks with no effect , all 4 Bilstein 5100s for last 5000 miles