Whoever designed this oil pan should be shot dead!

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Hootbro

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I would stop drill the cracks and weld it up for reuse.
 
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HangmanNY

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I got the old gasket (tray) out and cleaned up all the mating surfaces.

I’m working with the front end up @ 12 -14 inches or so.

I’ve seen videos where they drop the differential. I got everything in with a lot of difficulty. Used rtv sealant in the four corner areas.

I’ve read different specs online. 22-25 ft.lbs? What are the actual torque specs on the oil pan bolts?

I snapped one bolt on the shallow end of the pan. I’ve got a special paid of Japanese pliers that are designed to extract a broken bolt with as little As 1/16”. I have to remove all the bolts tomorrow, and extract that one bolt.

Again, I’ve been looking online for a complete set of oil pan mounting bolts. Again, Mopar wants to bend you over for every bolt!

Does anyone have a link to a complete set of bolts for these oil pans?

Also I removed the plastic clip that connects the cooler lines to the oil pan stud bolt. Can’t find the damn thing!

Does anyone have a part number for that as well?

Thanks!
 
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HangmanNY

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After doing more research, I found in other search results that said 9 foot pounds. 108 inch pounds. Its the same as the transmission bolts torque spec.
 

Wild one

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After doing more research, I found in other search results that said 9 foot pounds. 108 inch pounds. Its the same as the transmission bolts torque spec.
Put the torque wrench away and use a 1/4" drive ratchet /extension and socket to tighten them. The guys who break small bolts are the ones who insist on using a torque wrench,and you're a prime example of that :Big Laugh:
108 inch-lbs is also the torque spec on the intake manifold bolts
 

mdc1990zr1

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Put the torque wrench away and use a 1/4" drive ratchet /extension and socket to tighten them. The guys who break small bolts are the ones who insist on using a torque wrench,and you're a prime example of that :Big Laugh:
108 inch-lbs is also the torque spec on the intake manifold bolts
I agree. I have a 2000 Wrangler with about twenty or so valve cover bolts with a similar low inch pound torque specification. I used my 1/4 inch pound torque wrench in a few passes and snapped a few heads off the bolts. Now I just use the torque elbow and tighten to snug and then give it a little ugh after that and call it good. Never snapped another bolt.
 

Daw14

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When I grew up ,working on cars ,trucks, motorcycles,mostly the only time a torque wrench was used on head bolts, rod or main bearing caps.

There probably were a few other things, but most everything else was by feel ,and how large a fastener was used.
I seems like today , most people are very uncomfortable with out having a torque wrench and specs.
This alone would make it difficult for me to have someone else do work on my truck.
 
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HangmanNY

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A friend of mine told me about these pliers years ago

They are made in Japan. And they have a specific design to extract any type of bolt or screw. With his little as 1/16 of an inch, these things will grab it and unscrew them.

It’s not a tool you use often but it’s priceless when you need it:


 

Wild one

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Dan Topp

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What's really stupid is a 300k German car with a PLASTIC oil pan.
Ok maybe it's just me being stupid.
Don't get me started on the oil filter stupid location on the 5.7.
Agreed when I did my Audi timing chain i decided to do the oil pump Thats when I discovered they glue it on with no gasket.
 

Yardbird

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This is the type I use for inch pounds, except mine is a 40+ year old Craftsman. I did use one of these in foot lbs until the scale broke off it. Been meaning for a couple of decades to get it spot welded back on.

More accurate than a click type.

I used the inch lbs one Saturday to torque Ford taper seat plugs in my son's vehicle.

1775495864089.png
 

Wild one

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This is the type I use for inch pounds, except mine is a 40+ year old Craftsman. I did use one of these in foot lbs until the scale broke off it. Been meaning for a couple of decades to get it spot welded back on.

More accurate than a click type.

I used the inch lbs one Saturday to torque Ford taper seat plugs in my son's vehicle.

View attachment 582426
As long as you know how to use the swing arm wrenches they're still one the best torque wrenches a DIY'er can have as they don't need constant recalibrating like a click torque wrench requires. Alot of guys don't know how to use the bigger versions with the floating handle properly though.
 
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HangmanNY

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I had to drop the oil pan and gasket/housing

The engineer “nejisaurus” pliers are worth their weight in gold. They are designed to remove any broken bolts or screws.

In this case the broken oil pan bolt was above the steering rack mechanism. And close to the welded cross frame. I had to remove one bolt completely and loosen the other one mostly

I had @ 1/32” turning area with the engineer pliers and the knipex channel locks clamped onto the handle . Occasionally spraying the bolt with Gibbs penetrating lubricant.

It took a long while, but it finally came out!

It’s amazing that three different people on three different YouTube videos told in 25 foot pounds. These ******* must’ve been thinking about the main drain plug.

Only have to looking around online. I found out it was 9 foot pounds. And the worst part about Mopar is you cannot buy a set of bolts. They want to charge a lot of money for each bolt.

I just have to go outside and tighten up the bolts through the cross frame to tighten up the steering rack

As I said before these engineer “nejisaurus” pliers are worth their weight in gold. It’s not something you use often, but it works!
 

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HangmanNY

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What's really stupid is a 300k German car with a PLASTIC oil pan.
Ok maybe it's just me being stupid.
Don't get me started on the oil filter stupid location on the 5.7.
Yep! Another one of my pet peeves when I do an oil change. As careful as I can be I wind up using blue shop towels to get rid of the oil that leaks on top of everything up there!
 

Dan Topp

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Yep! Another one of my pet peeves when I do an oil change. As careful as I can be I wind up using blue shop towels to get rid of the oil that leaks on top of everything up there!
Even a aftermarket accessory for my ram IMG_2425.pngcomes with a remote drain that can be reached easily. The rams oil filter location was designed as a deterrent.
 

Wild one

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Yep! Another one of my pet peeves when I do an oil change. As careful as I can be I wind up using blue shop towels to get rid of the oil that leaks on top of everything up there!
No issue changing the filters on my old truck,downside was there were 2 :Big Laugh:
 

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Dan Topp

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This is better than having it on the top for obvious reasons My 3.6 caddy is nice except nothing to prevent everything getting trashed IMG_4189.jpeg
 

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