Now what on earth could this be?

good day for all, lowered rear last night, ordered Extang Trifecta and muffler today

quietpeen said:

what you are not working on this yet?

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OutlawTrucker said:

Stop posting START DROPPING!!!!!!

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EJM05 said:

done yet??

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Haha you guys are like my wife! Prolly attempt this saturday, but I'm still not sure if I'll have the time.

Big Boi said:

Money spent on unnecessary parts?

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Haha you ****! :********:

Cant wait to see it Trup

We're photo ******. You know that. You post a teaser pic without posting what WE WANNA SEE!!!!

Trupiano said:

Haha you guys are like my wife! Prolly attempt this saturday, but I'm still not sure if I'll have the time.



Haha you ****! :********:

Click to expand...

Lol. No more jokes, you got the kit.

But like everyone is saying, the back is a piece of cake. Took me 30 minutes to remove the wheels, disconnect the lower bolts on the shocks, sway bar end links, pan hard bar, and switch out the coils in the rear. Some argue that you dont have to touch the pan hard bar. But in my method you do. I jacked the rear up by the pumpkin, and placed a jack stand on each side of the frame (towards the rear). Once the stands were in place, and all the bolts were undone. I lowered the pumpkin slowly. My jack stands only raise to 16 3/4". So I had to lower the jack all the way down. Switch, out the coils, pads, and bump stops if need be (I didnt). Raise the jack up slowly and bolt everything back up. I used some thread locker on the bolts as well.

The front is a little different. I used this vid as a reference to pop the ball joints. The pickling fork is like $10 at AutoZone, and everyone should have a BFH or two. Mine is 3 lbs. Make sure you dont let the caliper hang by the hose. I used a zip tie to attach it up out the way.

Heres some pics of what you will be going through

Pumpkin held up by jack, jack stands on frame just before axle. Sway bar end links, bottom bolt on shocks, and top bolt on pan hard bar removed. Lower the jack slowly, and the coils will fall out.





With the floor jack under the lower control arm. Loosen the upper ball joint, tie rod end, and upper nut on sway bar end link. I left the nuts on by a couple threads, and used a pickling for and my BFH to separate them. After a couple whacks (busted loose after 5-10 whacks, surprisingly) the componets will drop, and you can slowly lower the jack. I removed the shock, and pushed down on the lower control arm to pull the spring out.


Now I used an impact gun and an air ratchet tp speed it up. It CAN be done with just hand tools. But I would recomend shooting the bolts with some PB Blaster before you start. Even though our trucks are fairly new. There are some big nuts and bolts, and will require some muscle.

Nice!

But the rear you didnt change shocks? if so, changing shocks it does help to pull inner fender wells.

Graygoose said:

But the rear you didnt change shocks? if so, changing shocks it does help to pull inner fender wells.

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I couldnt get my fender liners off

I didnt take my wheel wells out.... And Im running my oem shocks.


Back to the topic at hand... What time r u starting?

Pix of lowered truck or ban!!!!!

:********:

Think the base auto shop opens at 8, so I'll prolly head over there around 7:30 a.m. Need to finish by 4:00 p.m. at the latest.

Big Boi said:

Lol. No more jokes, you got the kit.

But like everyone is saying, the back is a piece of cake. Took me 30 minutes to remove the wheels, disconnect the lower bolts on the shocks, sway bar end links, pan hard bar, and switch out the coils in the rear. Some argue that you dont have to touch the pan hard bar. But in my method you do. I jacked the rear up by the pumpkin, and placed a jack stand on each side of the frame (towards the rear). Once the stands were in place, and all the bolts were undone. I lowered the pumpkin slowly. My jack stands only raise to 16 3/4". So I had to lower the jack all the way down. Switch, out the coils, pads, and bump stops if need be (I didnt). Raise the jack up slowly and bolt everything back up. I used some thread locker on the bolts as well.

The front is a little different. I used this vid as a reference to pop the ball joints. The pickling fork is like $10 at AutoZone, and everyone should have a BFH or two. Mine is 3 lbs. Make sure you dont let the caliper hang by the hose. I used a zip tie to attach it up out the way.

Heres some pics of what you will be going through

Pumpkin held up by jack, jack stands on frame just before axle. Sway bar end links, bottom bolt on shocks, and top bolt on pan hard bar removed. Lower the jack slowly, and the coils will fall out.

With the floor jack under the lower control arm. Loosen the upper ball joint, tie rod end, and upper nut on sway bar end link. I left the nuts on by a couple threads, and used a pickling for and my BFH to separate them. After a couple whacks (busted loose after 5-10 whacks, surprisingly) the componets will drop, and you can slowly lower the jack. I removed the shock, and pushed down on the lower control arm to pull the spring out.

Now I used an impact gun and an air ratchet tp speed it up. It CAN be done with just hand tools. But I would recomend shooting the bolts with some PB Blaster before you start. Even though our trucks are fairly new. There are some big nuts and bolts, and will require some muscle.

Click to expand...

Still waiting on you to come cut mine

Graygoose said:

But the rear you didnt change shocks? if so, changing shocks it does help to pull inner fender wells.

Click to expand...

OMFG so true

JB1 said:

I couldnt get my fender liners off

Click to expand...

Just take all the bolts off and some wiggling and cusing and they come off

Big Boi said:

Lol. No more jokes, you got the kit.

But like everyone is saying, the back is a piece of cake. Took me 30 minutes to remove the wheels, disconnect the lower bolts on the shocks, sway bar end links, pan hard bar, and switch out the coils in the rear. Some argue that you dont have to touch the pan hard bar. But in my method you do. I jacked the rear up by the pumpkin, and placed a jack stand on each side of the frame (towards the rear). Once the stands were in place, and all the bolts were undone. I lowered the pumpkin slowly. My jack stands only raise to 16 3/4". So I had to lower the jack all the way down. Switch, out the coils, pads, and bump stops if need be (I didnt). Raise the jack up slowly and bolt everything back up. I used some thread locker on the bolts as well.

The front is a little different. I used this vid as a reference to pop the ball joints. The pickling fork is like $10 at AutoZone, and everyone should have a BFH or two. Mine is 3 lbs. Make sure you dont let the caliper hang by the hose. I used a zip tie to attach it up out the way.

Heres some pics of what you will be going through

Pumpkin held up by jack, jack stands on frame just before axle. Sway bar end links, bottom bolt on shocks, and top bolt on pan hard bar removed. Lower the jack slowly, and the coils will fall out.

With the floor jack under the lower control arm. Loosen the upper ball joint, tie rod end, and upper nut on sway bar end link. I left the nuts on by a couple threads, and used a pickling for and my BFH to separate them. After a couple whacks (busted loose after 5-10 whacks, surprisingly) the componets will drop, and you can slowly lower the jack. I removed the shock, and pushed down on the lower control arm to pull the spring out.

Now I used an impact gun and an air ratchet tp speed it up. It CAN be done with just hand tools. But I would recomend shooting the bolts with some PB Blaster before you start. Even though our trucks are fairly new. There are some big nuts and bolts, and will require some muscle.

Click to expand...

Also with the rear did you have to move the sway bar

Good pics to get everyone started

Damn! Thanks Henry! This little guide you typed up will help alot!

Trup it only took 2 hrs for me and a bud to drop mine.

Trupiano said:

Damn! Thanks Henry! This little guide you typed up will help alot!

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I figured it would. Nice having everything in one spot, instead of searching the forum for info in the middle of the thread.

Good luck bruh

blackout11 said:

Also with the rear did you have to move the sway bar

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My dads from Waycross. Next trip up Ill holla, lol.