6" Lift and 20x12s on 35x13.50s 3.21s

Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

Anybody running a similar setup? Just wondering what kind of differences I'm gonna see in the performance and economy once I get this all done. I'm going to be running the Competitor series exhaust from Carven and a S&B CAI soon, with potentially a tuner later on. I'm aware that it's gonna drive a lot different, but just looking for some input and experience. I have the 8 speed trans. If you have any pictures of similar setups feel free to share them as well as any and all input. I'm new to Ram's and new to IFS. I'm gonna be running the Superlift 6" kit with Bilsteins front and rear and Toyo Open Country R/T's. I'm going 6" on 35's to limit the stress I'm putting on everything as much as possible since it's my daily driver.

Thanks in advance

Rzrman328 · Oct 2, 2017

It's doable. A decent number of guys run this setup. Won't win any races but doable.

You'll probably notice some performance loss and mpg decrease.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

Highway passing will be close as the transmission does all the work, off the line initial grunt will take a hit but its still a fast truck with the 3.21's and big tires. Also if you are completely stock going to 6 inch lift and tires expect about a 3-5mpg loss

Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

I appreciate the replies, guys. It won't be completely stock since the CAI and exhaust, but I understand what you mean. I see about 21 mpg average at about 70% highway and my city driving still isn't normal city driving. When I'm highway driving I average about 22-23 mpg so I can live with the drop-off in fuel mileage. Outside of regearing, what are some things I can do to help with the mileage drop-off if I feel that I need to do something?

I understand gearing and what not, my 96 Chevy on 40s runs about 13-14 mpg because I'm running 5.13s so I know it changes the truck up immensely. It's still going to be all the truck I need compared to that Chevy. I'm not looking to do a big build process on this since it'll be the daily driver for a couple of years before I trade in on a diesel to go big with. I'm just trying to do a small build to finish out my time in college and getting established in my career.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

The fuel drop comes from aerodynamics, rolling resistance, and weight of the wheel/tire. You lose the most mileage from the heavy tires. Most people do not realize how much 20 pounds per tire makes on gas mileage. The more agressive tire usually has a much higher rolling resistance as well.

As for aerodynamics the factory rake and lower air dam is to minimize the air turbulance under the truck. Once you add 8 inches with the lift and tires all that is gone so another place you lose.

Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
The fuel drop comes from aerodynamics, rolling resistance, and weight of the wheel/tire. You lose the most mileage from the heavy tires. Most people do not realize how much 20 pounds per tire makes on gas mileage. The more agressive tire usually has a much higher rolling resistance as well.

As for aerodynamics the factory rake and lower air dam is to minimize the air turbulance under the truck. Once you add 8 inches with the lift and tires all that is gone so another place you lose.

I know where the fuel drop comes from and the impacts on lifting a vehicle. Tires make a massive difference in regards to fuel economy, I won't be running a mud tire so that will help some with the rolling resistance. The Toyo R/T is a hybrid between the A/T and M/T. I am just trying to get a baseline of what to expect with folks that have done the lift and not regeared. Thank you for your input though, it's nice to talk to folks who understand this topic.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

I lost 5 mpg between the lift and tires running the nitto terra grappler G2's. Depending on how you drive, and it sounds like me 70-80% highway running cruise control you should expect 4-6 mpg loss overall. On one stretch of highway here in Tampa its flat as a board for miles, on that with the cruise set at 60mph I will still get 20-21mpg. When I jump up to 75 mph zone same highway I drop to 17-18.

Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
I lost 5 mpg between the lift and tires running the nitto terra grappler G2's. Depending on how you drive, and it sounds like me 70-80% highway running cruise control you should expect 4-6 mpg loss overall. On one stretch of highway here in Tampa its flat as a board for miles, on that with the cruise set at 60mph I will still get 20-21mpg. When I jump up to 75 mph zone same highway I drop to 17-18.

For the most part I run around 55-60 in my city driving and 70-75 on the highway. Now that I'm in school again the majority of my driving is 60-65 with a little bit of 70-75. I can definitely live with those numbers. Do you have any mods to the engine? I'm gonna do S&B intake and Carven exhaust.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

100% stock

Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
100% stock

Gotcha. And what exactly is your lift and tire setup?

I guess it's possible I could see marginally better economy with the intake and exhaust.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

Daldridge said:
Gotcha. And what exactly is your lift and tire setup?

I guess it's possible I could see marginally better economy with the intake and exhaust.

6 inch rc lift using bils instead of spacer, stock wheels 35x12.5x20 g2's

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Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
6 inch rc lift using bils instead of spacer, stock wheels 35x12.5x20 g2's

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Nice. I appreciate all the input. How much clearance do you have with the 35s? I assume it's more than enough.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

Daldridge said:
Nice. I appreciate all the input. How much clearance do you have with the 35s? I assume it's more than enough.

Tons. I did need a spacer for the wheel but there is no chance of rubbing. Trying to sell these tires local and bump to 37

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Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
Tons. I did need a spacer for the wheel but there is no chance of rubbing. Trying to sell these tires local and bump to 37

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Gotcha. I assume I will be fine and not have any rubbing issues running a 13.5 wide on a 12 wide wheel then. I was originally going to do a big build with coilers cranked up to fully clear 37s but I decided against it. I want to do a small build in between my big Chevy and when I build the big diesel in a couple years. I also wanted to minimize wear and tear on the suspension components with it being my daily driver.

WilliamS · Oct 2, 2017

Daldridge said:
Gotcha. I assume I will be fine and not have any rubbing issues running a 13.5 wide on a 12 wide wheel then. I was originally going to do a big build with coilers cranked up to fully clear 37s but I decided against it. I want to do a small build in between my big Chevy and when I build the big diesel in a couple years. I also wanted to minimize wear and tear on the suspension components with it being my daily driver.

As long as thw offset is right your good

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Daldridge · Oct 2, 2017

WilliamS said:
As long as thw offset is right your good

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

It'll be a -44, which I believe is like a 4.7 or 4.8" backspacing. I'm fine if I have to trim a little rubber, but I do not want to cut into any metal. It'll help that I'm running Bilsteins all around so I can adjust the height if necessary.

6" Lift and 20x12s on 35x13.50s 3.21s

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