Synthetic Oil

Hopefully this works,and there's a picture of the fluid level checking instructions that came with my transmission

Wild one said:

Hopefully this works,and there's a picture of the fluid level checking instructions that came with my transmission

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Uh yeah, . Would rather have dipstick.

Wild one said:

Hopefully this works,and there's a picture of the fluid level checking instructions that came with my transmission

Click to expand...

Not working for me , maybe try again as I'm very interested in printing a copy [emoji1303] thanks!

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R.L.K. said:

Not working for me , maybe try again as I'm very interested in printing a copy [emoji1303] thanks!

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Looks like it only worked for a few minutes,i copied it from my post on facebook.If you check out the other thread I just started,it'll link you to the instructions posted on facebook. If you're not a member of facebook,you're probably screwed as I don't have a photobook account,and have never successfully managed to get a picture on here.If anybody wants to copy them off the facebook posting,and post them here,please do.
Rick

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...QbXByDKYFdJmf7eiRRcTxmfSsdEZk8P1spROFll&ifg=1

Ramnewbie said:

God knows the dealership ain't gonna check it. It says right on their paperwork that they only check transmission fluid level if it has a dipstick.

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I hope that isn't every dealer.

Wild one said:

Hopefully this works,and there's a picture of the fluid level checking instructions that came with my transmission

Click to expand...

Thanks for finding this.

Seeing this written out just makes it look a lot worse for some reason...

Hemi395 said:

Thanks for finding this.

Seeing this written out just makes it look a lot worse for some reason...

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I'm Canadian,only cost me 8G Canuck with fluid/PPE tranny pan etc.,to get the instructions,for you guys,lol

Wild one said:

Looks like it only worked for a few minutes,i copied it from my post on facebook.If you check out the other thread I just started,it'll link you to the instructions posted on facebook. If you're not a member of facebook,you're probably screwed as I don't have a photobook account,and have never successfully managed to get a picture on here.If anybody wants to copy them off the facebook posting,and post them here,please do.
Rick

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...QbXByDKYFdJmf7eiRRcTxmfSsdEZk8P1spROFll&ifg=1

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Awesome !

Thanks again [emoji1303]

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"Raise the vehicle.

Stand on your head.

On a harvest moon, pull the fill plug.

Start the vehicle.

Remove the front axle.

Tilt the vehicle at a 32.7463° angle (has to be exact).

Shut off vehicle.

Start vehicle.

Raise the rpms to exactly 2273 (no more).

Scratch your balls with your left index and middle fingers.

If fluid runs out of fill port, fluid level is correct. If not, the preceedure will have to be attempted again on the next harvest moon.

Shut off vehicle.

Reinstall the front axle.

Return vehicle to level angle.

Lower vehicle."

And then kick yourself in the balls cause you went out of order, repeat.

huntergreen said:

Uh yeah, . Would rather have dipstick.

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LMAO, ya think?

Hemi395 said:

"Raise the vehicle.

Stand on your head.

On a harvest moon, pull the fill plug.

Start the vehicle.

Remove the front axle.

Tilt the vehicle at a 32.7463° angle (has to be exact).

Shut off vehicle.

Start vehicle.

Raise the rpms to exactly 2273 (no more).

Scratch your balls with your left index and middle fingers.

If fluid runs out of fill port, fluid level is correct. If not, the preceedure will have to be attempted again on the next harvest moon.

Shut off vehicle.

Reinstall the front axle.

Return vehicle to level angle.

Lower vehicle."

Click to expand...

Best post of the week!!
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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Hemi395 said:

"Raise the vehicle.

Stand on your head.

On a harvest moon, pull the fill plug.

Start the vehicle.

Remove the front axle.

Tilt the vehicle at a 32.7463° angle (has to be exact).

Shut off vehicle.

Start vehicle.

Raise the rpms to exactly 2273 (no more).

Scratch your balls with your left index and middle fingers.

If fluid runs out of fill port, fluid level is correct. If not, the preceedure will have to be attempted again on the next harvest moon.

Shut off vehicle.

Reinstall the front axle.

Return vehicle to level angle.

Lower vehicle."

Click to expand...

Damn near fell off the chair Hemi,i agree,this is the funniest and best post I've read in awhile,lol

LOL but in all seriousness, that has to be the most complicated fluid check procedure they could've possibly come up with.

Hemi395 said:

LOL but in all seriousness, that has to be the most complicated fluid check procedure they could've possibly come up with.

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It actually sounds worse then it is. I flushed my cooler and heater assembly manually then did 4 pan drops and fluid changes just to get everything flushed out.By the 4th pan drop,i was flat broke from buying fluid,but I could do the fluid check in my sleep,lol.The stock pan is definitely easier to drop then the PPE pan.The extra depth of the PPE pans sump,makes it slightly harder to R&R around the exhaust,but i'm a firm believer in the PPE pan.Both a buddy and I figure the pan takes a good 5 degrees out of the tranny temp in the summer on our 14 4X4's.My truck's a pavement princess and is parked now till next spring,so I can't say how much it'd drop the trannies operating temps in the winter though

Burla said:

And then kick yourself in the balls cause you went out of order, repeat.

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Hang on, I'm still scratching...

U&A said:

Unplug coil. Loosen 2 captured screws on coil. Pull coil out. Thin wall deep well socket (wit da rubber innards) to remove plug.

Obviously compressed air to blow everything out well before disconnecting/removing each thing.

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A little late to party...I found changing my plugs were the typical PIA pugs are; not sure how much different the 6.4 really is... It wasn't bad, just not sheering off the threads was the worst/ scary part. I had 55k on my factory plugs when changed..No noticeable throttle or MPG change. I think you'll be fine to wait 'till spring. lol I'll change mine again this spring since that'll be ~30k on these.

JimGregory said:

I think you are right. It recycles well. Dump it anywhere and it hurts nothing. Make it out of sand. All good!

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Have you seen the documentary "Sand Wars?" Sand is getting up there with fresh water and oil in terms of value...

Bottom line first, look how beneficial it is to have over 200ppm moly. This is more complex because science studies don't think like most of us do, there are many things at play here primary and secondary zddp, and the moly the tested was not tri nuclear moly but dn moly the type in redline, and the result was the optimum moly level was between 200ppm to 700ppm moly, added with 1,000 ppm zinc. Just maybe that is why redline quiets so many ticks, it's not one plate but two. Not all zinc was equal, remember a while back I posted that as well. They tested 3 types of zinc. Moly plate with the right zddp on top = low coefficient of friction.

Zinc needs moly? Does moly need zinc? Turns out yes, they need each other, which really doesn't bode well for guys running non moly'd oils. And, in this report an optimum zddp level is 1,000 ppm. At high rates of mo/zddp they compete for the surface, but mo wins. Once again more evidence it takes time for the moly to plate, but this study may suggest something of a double plate when moly absorbs in the metal first, zddp compliments that by having a sacrificial layer on top of that. I'll just post the summary.

The frictional characteristics of oils containing molybdenum dialkyldithiocarbamate (MoDTC) together with zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZnDTP) were studied with a reciprocating roller-on-disk tester. At a Zn concentration of 1000 ppm there was an optimum Mo concentration for friction reduction depending upon the alkyl group of ZnDTP. The friction was affected significantly by ZnDTP type at low Mo/Zn ratios while the extent of the effect of ZnDTP type on friction became small at high Mo/Zn ratios. For a combination of MoDTC and ZnDTP with primary C8 alkyl group, the preferential formation of a film containing products derived from ZnDTP was delayed appreciably due to competitive adsorption of MoDTC onto the rubbing surface. However, this contributed to a more effective friction reduction because the ratio of products from ZnDTP producing a high friction in the outermost surface film became lower during the initial period of the run.

Look at the coefficient for friction...

It's safe to say as fact, if you don't have moly in your oil unless you have a competitive replacement for it, then you simply have more friction in your engine.

Burla said:

It's safe to say as fact, if you don't have moly in your oil unless you have a competitive replacement for it, then you simply have more friction in your engine.

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Is there an alternative to moly ? Thanks