NEED HELP - Amp and Sub settings...

PdPuNOme · Jun 21, 2015

Have a single Alpine Type S dual voice coil at dual 4ohm in a qlogic single 10 under rear passenger seat box, trying to run off a Boss R1100M 1100w amp and nothing is happening.

Tried a new amp replacement, bought from amazon cheapest best deal i could get.

I am trying to run this off my speaker wires, so tried all ways on a line out converter and all which ways on the amps built in one. Nothing happens.

Tried my buddies rca's running off his system and still nothing, so I believe I ruled out the amp since now had two of them and thinking it is the sub and how that has dual voice coils that have to be jumped. I did try messing with that setup to no prevail.

Without getting into what you have or suggest need to know simply is this amp proper to run this style of sub or vise versa or does it seem one or the other is faulty.

Looking to just go with a kicker 10 and amp to match, so if I do that I will be selling the Alpine sub. Amp will just get returned to Amazon.

justin13703 · Jun 21, 2015

Is the amp getting power? Does it have constant 12v from the battery, a switched 12v source from an accessory or ignition circuit (for the "remote" connection on the amp), and a GOOD ground?

Once we verify this we can move on to the next on the list. If nothing is happening then there is a connection problem somewhere. And don't swap that alpine sub for a kicker.

PdPuNOme · Jun 21, 2015

Yes all wired correctly.

justin13703 · Jun 21, 2015

If youre sure that's all the power connections are good and the power light is staying on then the next thing to look at is the line output coverter. How exactly do you have this wired? Like what wires and where are you tapping into for the signal.

And is the sub new or used? An easy way to tell if the sub is blown, is to hook up the jumpers for a 2ohm load like in the picture you posted. Then set a multimeter to measure ohms, and put the leads onto the terminals of the sub where the amp would connect to it. Make sure the amp isn't still connected when you do this. The reading should be somewhere between 1.5-2.5 ohms. If its something different than that, or the number is continuously changing, the sub is damaged.

JonBoy · Jun 26, 2015

I second not switching to kicker (sub anyway, amps tend to be ok). If anything, type R would be a step up.
On paper, your amp slightly out powers the sub, but it's a boss and probably won't do rated, so you are good there. You should be fine wired at 2 ohm.

DOA amp?

justin13703 · Jun 27, 2015

JonBoy said:
I second not switching to kicker (sub anyway, amps tend to be ok). If anything, type R would be a step up.
On paper, your amp slightly out powers the sub, but it's a boss and probably won't do rated, so you are good there. You should be fine wired at 2 ohm.

DOA amp?

It's 1100 watts peak and being a boss, it's probably 3-400 rms at 2 ohms.

But it's been a week since he last posted so he either figured it out or doesn't care lol

PdPuNOme · Jun 28, 2015

Sorry for the delay guys. I ended up sending both amps back, the original and the replacement. I wired everything correctly, did it 20 times, even wired it wrong on purpose every which way (this is for the line out converter and the built in one on the amps) no luck. Best readings I got was 90 watts off the amp. Power and ground all were perfect so no issues there.

I even hooked my buddies system to myn and still nothing. Either the sub is just not working straight up or the amps were garbage. I plan to grab a new amp this week most likely either a Kicker DX250.1 or DX500.1 have not decided yet.

I just want some nice deep bass nothing extreme at all, plus i have 3 little kids riding back there, so cannot be ear popping.

PdPuNOme · Jun 28, 2015

To answer the line out questions, I first tapped into the two rears behind the pillars where the front seatbelts are. White/Red and White/black on driver side and passenger i forget but believe it was cream/purple idk just know it went from the same colors as the driver into the boot and from there it switched to the other colors.

then i tapped right into the speakers using my factory wire harness converters for aftermarket speakers, same results.

I then tapped directly behind the radio thinking there could be a signal drop off and made no difference.

all in all big waste of time.

PdPuNOme · Jul 1, 2015

ok so i am retrying this mod.. grabbed a JL amp today for nothing, so attempting this again. This time the guy i got it off of had it all hooked up and worked great in his truck, so lets see what happens in mine.... I plan to use the speaker wire input or high level on the amp until my new headunit comes in, so this time i am going right behind the factory headunit.

justin13703 · Jul 3, 2015

PdPuNOme said:
ok so i am retrying this mod.. grabbed a JL amp today for nothing, so attempting this again. This time the guy i got it off of had it all hooked up and worked great in his truck, so lets see what happens in mine.... I plan to use the speaker wire input or high level on the amp until my new headunit comes in, so this time i am going right behind the factory headunit.

Let us know what happens

PdPuNOme · Jul 3, 2015

justin13703 said:
Let us know what happens

SAME THING! Has to be the sub. Cannot believe a speaker that to the naked eye is prestine will not make a note literally nothing comes out. This time I grabbed a cut out of dash factory radio plug spliced to a aftermarket harness then taped in the high level speaker connections. Did it this way to ensure a 100% good connection and dont have to worry about patching anything in the future makes in cleaner.

i will try the ohm test on it, but it must be the sub. I will get a different style this time.

justin13703 · Jul 3, 2015

PdPuNOme said:
SAME THING! Has to be the sub. Cannot believe a speaker that to the naked eye is prestine will not make a note literally nothing comes out. This time I grabbed a cut out of dash factory radio plug spliced to a aftermarket harness then taped in the high level speaker connections. Did it this way to ensure a 100% good connection and dont have to worry about patching anything in the future makes in cleaner.

i will try the ohm test on it, but it must be the sub. I will get a different style this time.

So the sub was used? It can look brand new on the outside but be damaged on the inside. Happens all the time. I saw it constantly when I was an installer and people brought in used stuff to have installed. I was hoping you did that test on the sub because if you tried 2 brand new amps and neither of them worked, the problem is somewhere else.

And you don't have to get a different style sub. Just one that works lol. Alpine are good subs, much better than kickers. Just stay with a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub.

PdPuNOme · Jul 3, 2015

I tried the ohm test on the sub and did not get any readings. Tone test was positive, but regular ohm'ing showed nothing, but was not "OL", so I am thrown off by that. I checked the ac volts off the JL amp and its reading almost identical to what the boss amps were bouncing around and not going above 29 or so ac volts which would equate to 210 watts RMS i believe (29x29/4ohms) or 420 (29x29/2 ohms since the diagram shows 2ohm amp but sub is marked 4ohms), so why would the sub not even make a noise or move?

PdPuNOme · Jul 3, 2015

Just ordered a rockford R2D4-10 seems perfect match for my q logic box and JL JX250/1 amp, both in mounting depth, dual 4ohm voice coils, and good reviews from multiple sites.

Amazon $51 bucks will deliver this Sunday, love PRIME!

Ill update by then, still looking locally for a sub cheap to test and have as a backup.

justin13703 · Jul 3, 2015

If the multimeter was showing nothing but not OL then the sub is blown. The reason for no sound is it is either completely blown and not completing the circuit, or it is partially blown and making the amps go into protect mode. As far as the ac volts off the amp, that will bounce around and change with your volume level. It is not going to read the rms rating. It's basically changing with the amount of sound it is trying to put out. If you meter it again, turn your volume up and down while you're reading it. The values will go up and down with the volume. That's normal.

jadocs · Jul 3, 2015

PdPuNOme said:
This time the guy i got it off of had it all hooked up and worked great in his truck

PdPuNOme said:
SAME THING! Has to be the sub.

How is it the sub if you said it was working perfectly in the other guys truck?

justin13703 · Jul 3, 2015

jadocs said:
How is it the sub if you said it was working perfectly in the other guys truck?

The only thing he changed was the amp. He's had the same sub the whole time

jadocs · Jul 3, 2015

Ah I see thanks.

PdPuNOme · Jul 6, 2015

Yep, Sub it was. New sub works great. Thanks all for the help. Weeks wasted thinking a speaker makes some sort of noise no matter what, but not this one!

To sum it up:
The Rockford R2D4-10 sounds great in my passenger side Q-Logic box running off a JL JX250/1 amp on 8 gauge Rockford amp kit. This is running on speaker output straight to the amps input, so once I get a aftermarket hu and use rca's I am sure it will be even better.

justin13703 · Jul 6, 2015

PdPuNOme said:
Yep, Sub it was. New sub works great. Thanks all for the help. Weeks wasted thinking a speaker makes some sort of noise no matter what, but not this one!

To sum it up:
The Rockford R2D4-10 sounds great in my passenger side Q-Logic box running off a JL JX250/1 amp on 8 gauge Rockford amp kit. This is running on speaker output straight to the amps input, so once I get a aftermarket hu and use rca's I am sure it will be even better.

Good deal I'm glad it's all working now. I've seen plenty of subs and speakers in my day that are completely blown like that. Subs especially because the power levels are so much higher that when something does go wrong it's usually pretty catastrophic for the sub lol

NEED HELP - Amp and Sub settings...

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