What did you do to your Gen3 today?

[Ram Lover]

No worries. I was curious about the pinion nut because they shouldn't be reused. Is there any play in the pinion? You might need a full rebuild.

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If that's the case I'm just gonna get a whole rear axle ready to go with limited slip.

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[JPT]

Sorry Jersey didn't realize you commented also, but I found it and responded.

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The previous time the shop resolved your issue, did they do a full rebuild? I believe our axles have crush sleeves, so if they simply just put new parts in without setting up the gears, this is likely to be an/the issue.

On a crush sleeve axle, the CORRECT (people will say you don't have to, but you do) way to put an pinion nut on, is to do so with gear setup tools and the axle carrier out. The crush sleeve is basically an adjustable spacer to provide the correct preload. Once crushed to specs, it is possible to under/over torque the new/same axle nut when reinstalling, by changing the preload.

At about 3:03 in this video you see the tool needed, you can't see it, but the axle is apart, and the carrier is out of the axle (otherwise you add resistance and this is what you are trying to set on the pinion bearings).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD8QNQATrNs

They should have used a master install kit, and replaced everything after your previous problem, anything less, would be roulette.

 

[Jerseystyle]

The previous time the shop resolved your issue, did they do a full rebuild? I believe our axles have crush sleeves, so if they simply just put new parts in without setting up the gears, this is likely to be an/the issue.

On a crush sleeve axle, the CORRECT (people will say you don't have to, but you do) way to put an pinion nut on, is to do so with gear setup tools and the axle carrier out. The crush sleeve is basically an adjustable spacer to provide the correct preload. Once crushed to specs, it is possible to under/over torque the new/same axle nut when reinstalling, by changing the preload.

At about 3:03 in this video you see the tool needed, you can't see it, but the axle is apart, and the carrier is out of the axle (otherwise you add resistance and this is what you are trying to set on the pinion bearings).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD8QNQATrNs

They should have used a master install kit, and replaced everything after your previous problem, anything less, would be roulette.

A better solution would be to scrap the crush sleeve and go with a spacer and shims if available. [emoji6]

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[Ram Lover]

The previous time the shop resolved your issue, did they do a full rebuild? I believe our axles have crush sleeves, so if they simply just put new parts in without setting up the gears, this is likely to be an/the issue.

On a crush sleeve axle, the CORRECT (people will say you don't have to, but you do) way to put an pinion nut on, is to do so with gear setup tools and the axle carrier out. The crush sleeve is basically an adjustable spacer to provide the correct preload. Once crushed to specs, it is possible to under/over torque the new/same axle nut when reinstalling, by changing the preload.

At about 3:03 in this video you see the tool needed, you can't see it, but the axle is apart, and the carrier is out of the axle (otherwise you add resistance and this is what you are trying to set on the pinion bearings).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD8QNQATrNs

They should have used a master install kit, and replaced everything after your previous problem, anything less, would be roulette.

Ya i tried to tell them that i probably wouldn't put the original bearings and crap back since he would have it out anyway, he was supposed to inspect and let me know, he then only changed pinion bearings and put it back. I understand the process but I'm not setup nor do I want to be that involved in the rear end myself. I was hoping to just need a new seal and maybe the shaft.


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[Jerseystyle]

Ya i tried to tell them that i probably wouldn't put the original bearings and crap back since he would have it out anyway, he was supposed to inspect and let me know, he then only changed pinion bearings and put it back. I understand the process but I'm not setup nor do I want to be that involved in the rear end myself. I was hoping to just need a new seal and maybe the shaft.


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I'd remove the shaft and check for play in the pinion. If there's no play you might get away with just a new seal, but like above stated, you shouldn't reuse crush sleeves or pinion nuts.

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[Ram Lover]

I'd remove the shaft and check for play in the pinion. If there's no play you might get away with just a new seal, but like above stated, you shouldn't reuse crush sleeves or pinion nuts.

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Right, nut and sleeve were new from me, not sure what they used after.

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[JPT]

Ya i tried to tell them that i probably wouldn't put the original bearings and crap back since he would have it out anyway, he was supposed to inspect and let me know, he then only changed pinion bearings and put it back. I understand the process but I'm not setup nor do I want to be that involved in the rear end myself. I was hoping to just need a new seal and maybe the shaft.


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I'm not sure what shop you used. But this is my advise to you. Very few shops actually have gear experience. Your best bet is to go to an 4x4 (offroad, with tons of custom rigs in their lot with custom cages) shop that works on Jeeps/buggies or a speed shop that does race cars. These guys do gear work daily.

I would get the gear ratio you desire, Limited Slip (gear driven, not clutch), master install kit and have the shop do a new gear setup.

Once they are pulling everything (to check preload), you are well underway the new gear/carrier setup cost wise. Labor wise, it isn't much more.

My speed shop that did my jeep and locker install charged $250 per axle in labor (this was in North East NJ, so high shop rates).

After that I learned how to do gear work with members of my jeep club, and installed ARB lockers front and rear myself.

 

[Ram Lover]

I'm not sure what shop you used. But this is my advise to you. Very few shops actually have gear experience. Your best bet is to go to an 4x4 (offroad, with tons of custom rigs in their lot with custom cages) shop that works on Jeeps/buggies or a speed shop that does race cars. These guys do gear work daily.

I would get the gear ratio you desire, Limited Slip (gear driven, not clutch), master install kit and have the shop do a new gear setup.

Once they are pulling everything (to check preload), you are well underway the new gear/carrier setup cost wise. Labor wise, it isn't much more.

My speed shop that did my jeep and locker install charged $250 per axle in labor (this was in North East NJ, so high shop rates).

After that I learned how to do gear work with members of my jeep club, and installed ARB lockers front and rear myself.

Nice, if the rear is screwed I'll just get a whole setup with limited already in it and it'll be easy swap on the ground in the driveway, no garage, believe i have 3.92 gears, are our limited slip clutch driven?

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[JPT]

Nice, if the rear is screwed I'll just get a whole setup with limited already in it and it'll be easy swap on the ground in the driveway, no garage, believe i have 3.92 gears, are our limited slip clutch driven?

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I don't think they are, but I don't know.

I have a 4x4 5spd 4.7 with 3.07 gears (open differential). So my setup is different. I have 106k miles, and am not sure if I want to keep the truck, if I do, I will do gears, and leave it open. I'm not a fan of Limited Slips/lockers on road (rain/snow).

My fear with getting full axles, is I don't know the condition of the axle. You could spend less swapping axles just to find out that you need to do the entire thing still.

If you want to redo the gears with a master install kit and a limited slip, you probably could get it done for about $700 - $1,000 (parts and labor), I'm not sure how much cheaper axles are where you are.

 

[Ram Lover]

I don't think they are, but I don't know.

I have a 4x4 5spd 4.7 with 3.07 gears (open differential). So my setup is different. I have 106k miles, and am not sure if I want to keep the truck, if I do, I will do gears, and leave it open. I'm not a fan of Limited Slips/lockers on road (rain/snow).

My fear with getting full axles, is I don't know the condition of the axle. You could spend less swapping axles just to find out that you need to do the entire thing still.

If you want to redo the gears with a master install kit and a limited slip, you probably could get it done for about $700 - $1,000 (parts and labor), I'm not sure how much cheaper axles are where you are.

I've heard that about lockers and limited slips but I had a Yukon with a locked rear and loved it, never used 4 wheel unless i was on an unplowed back road or something, suppose it would be different in a truck with a lighter ass end.
I've thought that about used too but there are a couple reputable junk yards near me, one I've been going to for years so they wouldn't steer made wrong or screw me.
Is that price with my gears or new? Haven't priced axles but I thought it would be more than that, maybe I'll go that route.

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[smiley]

A better solution would be to scrap the crush sleeve and go with a spacer and shims if available. [emoji6]

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Agreed that is what I did.

 

[JPT]

I've heard that about lockers and limited slips but I had a Yukon with a locked rear and loved it, never used 4 wheel unless i was on an unplowed back road or something, suppose it would be different in a truck with a lighter ass end.
I've thought that about used too but there are a couple reputable junk yards near me, one I've been going to for years so they wouldn't steer made wrong or screw me.
Is that price with my gears or new? Haven't priced axles but I thought it would be more than that, maybe I'll go that route.

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When I did my rear axle (years ago):

Detroit Locker $700 (you probably can get a LS for $500)
Gears $200
Master Install Kit ($100)
Labor ($250)

I wasn't including gears. I would say <$1,200 with gears. You also can find used carriers online. That's the only part I would buy used (personally).

 

[Ram Lover]

Agreed that is what I did.

Wow didn't see that post either, shims as in washers? Would that five a more accurate torque and would it then be ok to use the 210 torque with it supposedly already setup?

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[smiley]

Wow didn't see that post either, shims as in washers? Would that five a more accurate torque and would it then be ok to use the 210 torque with it supposedly already setup?

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No worry about guessing torque crush sleeve is crap way to do it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391391287656

 

[Jerseystyle]

Wow didn't see that post either, shims as in washers? Would that five a more accurate torque and would it then be ok to use the 210 torque with it supposedly already setup?

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Crush sleeves aren't very accurate and you run the risk of over torqing it when trying to get the right preload. When that happens you have to scrap the crush sleeve and start again. Shims allow you to fine tune it and set it just perfect.

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[EWC88]

Have no time to change my fuel pump so made apt to drop off at shop Monday night and pick up Friday. Reason that long cause I'm going to Florida, shop doesn't care that it'll sit, and I'll have my issue fixed while good, + in my book!

 

[rocket]

added a quart of oil.......I hope this isn't the start of an oil drinker....but mebbe a ten month since I changed the oil thing and never bothered to check it cuz I'm a lazy ******** thing.

 

[Rokmonanoff]

Oil and air filter change. Noticing a small drip puddle under my rear differential in the garage...


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[rocket]

Oil and air filter change. Noticing a small drip puddle under my rear differential in the garage...


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I was alittle miffed that dodge couldn't get a rear seal to last more than 75k miles then I realized just how far 75 k miles were....I shut upped and paid the shop to fix it.

 

[Jerseystyle]

Oil and air filter change. Noticing a small drip puddle under my rear differential in the garage...


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Pinion seal or just the diff cover?

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