2006 5.7 Hemi P0032 Code

[99Ram318]

Replaced both upstream sensors when I got engine light and code threw a P0032.. since I was under there, replaced both upstreams with NTKs. Did the PCM reset and battery disconnect.

Still got the code.

Replaced with two more NTKs and still got code. Tested O2s with multi-meter and tested fine.


Still have P0032.

I'm thinking last ditch effort is a bad PCM.

But - has anyone had this before and found something I'm overlooking or something else it could be?

I have an alarm. When I plug in or un-plug the sensors when the alarm is set, i get the 'honk' from the horn due to the voltage drop. So - I 'assume' the sensors are making good connection voltage-wise.

I may have a bad ground somewhere but the wiring is pretty stable and the shield looks good.

Any advice would be grateful

 

[99Ram318]

Nothing?

Going on the selling block then... Let it be someone else's headache.

 

[Snake15eyes1998]

Nothing?

Going on the selling block then... Let it be someone else's headache.

Hold your horses lol. If guys don't respond on here to a post. Most of the time it's because they don't have an answer for you. I looked at your post yesterday. But still don't have an answer for your problem. I can suggest you check all the connections to your ECM, PCM. Make sure none of the pins backed out. But electrical problems, are some of the toughest, most time consuming things to diagnose. Most of the time, taking it to the dealer is the only option. They work on these trucks, they know these trucks from the inside out. They will know better then Most, where to start or why it's throwing that code. I will research that code man, think more on it. I will post again with suggestions.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Replaced both upstream sensors when I got engine light and code threw a P0032.. since I was under there, replaced both upstreams with NTKs. Did the PCM reset and battery disconnect.

Still got the code.

Replaced with two more NTKs and still got code. Tested O2s with multi-meter and tested fine.


Still have P0032.

I'm thinking last ditch effort is a bad PCM.

But - has anyone had this before and found something I'm overlooking or something else it could be?

I have an alarm. When I plug in or un-plug the sensors when the alarm is set, i get the 'honk' from the horn due to the voltage drop. So - I 'assume' the sensors are making good connection voltage-wise.

I may have a bad ground somewhere but the wiring is pretty stable and the shield looks good.

Any advice would be grateful

It's either the ground (#107), one of the new sensors, or a bad PCM.... and lastly, a possible wire rubbed through somewhere.

 

[99Ram318]

It's either the ground (#107), one of the new sensors, or a bad PCM.... and lastly, a possible wire rubbed through somewhere.

So - I have used 4 total sensors, switched them back and forth with each other, had them heat tested and meter tested at Oreilys. All test good. I am going to assume #107 is the pin on the PCM I need to check? The Chilton's book I bought is useless because it does not have a wiring harness for the 2006 in the book for 2003-2008 Dodge.... ???? Anyway, I will check for ground today - if not, pull the PCM and get one ordered.

 

[Sherman Bird]

So - I have used 4 total sensors, switched them back and forth with each other, had them heat tested and meter tested at Oreilys. All test good. I am going to assume #107 is the pin on the PCM I need to check? The Chilton's book I bought is useless because it does not have a wiring harness for the 2006 in the book for 2003-2008 Dodge.... ???? Anyway, I will check for ground today - if not, pull the PCM and get one ordered.

90% of the PCM's replaced didn't need to be. You need to diagnose the problem before you spend 1500 dollars chasing the problem. You need to check for blown fuses... Ground #107 is one of the grounds on either the sheet metal or the frame.... The code is for the heater circuit on the oxy sensors.

 

[99Ram318]

90% of the PCM's replaced didn't need to be. You need to diagnose the problem before you spend 1500 dollars chasing the problem. You need to check for blown fuses... Ground #107 is one of the grounds on either the sheet metal or the frame.... The code is for the heater circuit on the oxy sensors.

10-4 - will check the G107 this afternoon. Is there any specific fuse I need to check? I don't see any on my fuse panel that shows O2 - although I do have two PCM fuses.

 

[99Ram318]

Well - just one PCM - it shows two but that is the one for the Diesel.... so 31 is mine for the PCM. Tell you what, having a 2006 Mega Cab with the 5.7 has caused more issues ...... 1500 sitting on a 2500 frame... I have to take parts off and go to the parts store and argue with them.... Or, special order damn near everything...

 

[Sherman Bird]

Well - just one PCM - it shows two but that is the one for the Diesel.... so 31 is mine for the PCM. Tell you what, having a 2006 Mega Cab with the 5.7 has caused more issues ...... 1500 sitting on a 2500 frame... I have to take parts off and go to the parts store and argue with them.... Or, special order damn near everything...

I rebuilt the transmission on a Chevy Astro Van years ago... it was OBD2. After I finished, the check engine light was on, yet it hadn't been when I began diagnostics, road test, and repairs. Scanner codes included the O2 sensor heater circuits, the EVAP solenoids, and some others germane to GM for that circuit.

Turned out I had pinched a wire in the harness between the bell housing and engine block.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Replaced both upstream sensors when I got engine light and code threw a P0032.. since I was under there, replaced both upstreams with NTKs. Did the PCM reset and battery disconnect.

Still got the code.

Replaced with two more NTKs and still got code. Tested O2s with multi-meter and tested fine.


Still have P0032.

I'm thinking last ditch effort is a bad PCM.

But - has anyone had this before and found something I'm overlooking or something else it could be?

I have an alarm. When I plug in or un-plug the sensors when the alarm is set, i get the 'honk' from the horn due to the voltage drop. So - I 'assume' the sensors are making good connection voltage-wise.

I may have a bad ground somewhere but the wiring is pretty stable and the shield looks good.

Any advice would be grateful

Ground 107 is in the engine compartment

 

[99Ram318]

Ok, so there are two grounds on the fender wells, one on each side about 4-5" from the firewall near the hood, support cylinders. The one one the passenger side was fairly clean; driver-side was dirty. Cleaned them both up real good and scuffed them up. Replaced bank 1/1 with another new sensor - still get code. I got the harness away from the body, tranny and engine as best as I could, still get code. I did notice another grounding point behind the battery but didn't do anything with it. The ma

 

[99Ram318]

The white marks on the wires leading back to the motor is not much, I felt them they were minor rough, nothing major. Didn't see any exposed wiring. The old sensor I took out I tested again and had 4.3 ohms across the heater wires.

Stuck.....

 

[99Ram318]

BTW - tomorrow once the pipes are cool, going to meter out to see if there are any short between the male plug on the signal side and what the total resistance is between the ground and the #107 with a wire.

 

[tron67j]

I had sensor problem on my Gen 3. Threw code, replaced sensor, light came back on, replaced sensor again. Still had light. Turned out that first replacement sensor was bad, second one was good but in replacement a wire broke in the plug at sensor. Had to find the truck side plug and replace. Worked like a charm after that, but seriously frustrating for about a month including my parents, who borrowed it, had to leave trailer and limp to a dealer.

 

[99Ram318]

So - no shorts that I can find. If anybody has a link to the PCM pin-outs that would be great. I'm thinking before I rule the PCM being bad. I'm going to just rewire from plug to appropriate locations on the PCM plug(s) and ground.

OK - have a tracer hooked up to BLK/LT Green and Brown/ Light Green... Brown goes to PCM and the Black goes to module on gas pedal????

 

[99Ram318]

Something I should probably bring to light - here in the past year or so (since last summer) I have been going through anti-freeze. No smoke, no water in oil and no oil in rad. This thing has sit since the last time I posted - Sunday and it was full because I filled it. I had to add at least a quart of anti-freeze today and there is nothing on my garage floor. I have run it until it gets to temp and can't see any steam or hear anything under the hood.

 

[99Ram318]

Bad PCM....

 

[Sherman Bird]

I looked at the wiring diagram for that Heater circuit on my information system which I used daily in this automotive profession. It's pretty straight forward. Wiring, oxy sensor or computer.... It's that cut and dried!

 

[99Ram318]

I looked at the wiring diagram for that Heater circuit on my information system which I used daily in this automotive profession. It's pretty straight forward. Wiring, oxy sensor or computer.... It's that cut and dried!

Yep, I had to go to dealer - 2006 Mega Cab / 5.7 Hemi has a totally different wiring diagram than every other vehicle made.

This vehicle has been a headache every time something needs to be fixed. I learned early on, take the part with when I go to the parts store. Because of the 2500 frame, parts stores want to give you 1500 parts. I have had waaaaaayyy too many arguments with part stores that I have literally had one guy want to bet me $500 bucks I had a 2500 hundred when I took him my lower ball joint...... he walked outside and seen the RAM 1500 on the side and literally said, "Someone put that emblem on there".

Once the new PCM gets here and the code is gone - going on Craigslist. Tired of messing with Dodge... 3 tranny's in the 99, all the BS with the Mega Cab... going to go Ford or Chevy... just not worth the headaches anymore.

 

[99Ram318]

OH - and BTW - the lead going to the Gas Pedal Position Sensor is correct.... There is a splice behind the motor for 1/1 and 2/1 banks and they work in conjunction with the gas pedal with Air Temp sensor and gas pedal along with timing and other things....