2010 5.7 cranks but only starts if gas pedal is to the floor.

[paintballer51]

She has been disconnected and retuned a bunch of times, same results.

I'm about to say screw it and buy a scan tool. I do know a few folks that have them but I moved further away and they would need them for themselves because they use them everyday... I have never used one but I am usually a good learner.

Spark plugs, I will have to check on that.

Would a decent scan tool tell help me see what is going on here. At least able to narrow down my search?

 

[Jeepwalker]

Many guys here like the OBDLink MX+ that was linked earlier in this thread. That's probably what I'd get if I was looking for one. Relatively inexpensive and you can use it stand-alone, or with AlfaOBD (which does deep RAM stuff). You use your smart phone or Tablet with the OBDLink. Or I think you can use a laptop. But there are other units which are handheld tablet units too, like the Launch, etc. Look them up on youtube. These new scan tools are getting almost as powerful as a snap-on, and if you use OBDLink, probably more capable than snap-on. The OBDLink should give you everything you need. I'm personally a Snap-on user, but upgrades are super expensive. There has been great tech advancement in the consumer OBD market. For a lot less money you can get great data from the units listed above and linked below.

And if you DID want to go to an AlfaOBD (that does a ton through your Ram), the MX+ is the access point for that. Plus a lot of guys here know how to use the MX+ so you can do searches and get answers from other Ram users. That's almost worth it right there. Amazon has them.

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6

 

[paintballer51]

Hey all, I kinda took a break from the truck. Needed to work and the heat in the afternoons has not been fun.

Anyway, I purchased an Innova 7111 SDS tool. Of course there is a bit of a learning curve...

This just a few things in the live data...

The coolant temperature i think said -40'F and the ECT said 75'F. There are a few other temps but they where around 75'F.

Fuel sys 1 and 2 just have "OL" which I'm not sure if that is "open lead' or what.

ECU volts 11.982V

O2 sensors are all at 1.270V

MAP 29 (inHg)

These are just a few things I recorded. The other thing that really sucks is my ignition switch. I cannot perform some test because I have a loose key to ignition and it is a trick to start it (even though it won't actually start), it basically loses connection or whatever you want to call it when you go from the on pos to start, have to turn to start and then back off a little bit and then push in. Before we say that might be the problem, It has been like that for 2 years now and it always started.

Under the PCM-Engine Control Module test/scan or something (sorry I'm new to this tool and have been out there playing with it for 2 hours), I noticed a lot of N/A's and Not Supported in the live data.

Lastly, I believe it was a couple of stored codes under the drivetrain or something (sorry again), I seen a few things like "lost communication with ECM/PCM.

On again brand new to this tool.

 

[jws123]

Hey all, I kinda took a break from the truck. Needed to work and the heat in the afternoons has not been fun.

Anyway, I purchased an Innova 7111 SDS tool. Of course there is a bit of a learning curve...

This just a few things in the live data...

The coolant temperature i think said -40'F and the ECT said 75'F. There are a few other temps but they where around 75'F.

Fuel sys 1 and 2 just have "OL" which I'm not sure if that is "open lead' or what.

ECU volts 11.982V

O2 sensors are all at 1.270V

MAP 29 (inHg)

These are just a few things I recorded. The other thing that really sucks is my ignition switch. I cannot perform some test because I have a loose key to ignition and it is a trick to start it (even though it won't actually start), it basically loses connection or whatever you want to call it when you go from the on pos to start, have to turn to start and then back off a little bit and then push in. Before we say that might be the problem, It has been like that for 2 years now and it always started.

Under the PCM-Engine Control Module test/scan or something (sorry I'm new to this tool and have been out there playing with it for 2 hours), I noticed a lot of N/A's and Not Supported in the live data.

Lastly, I believe it was a couple of stored codes under the drivetrain or something (sorry again), I seen a few things like "lost communication with ECM/PCM.

On again brand new to this tool.

That ingnition switch could be part of your issue you know... lol when they fail the truck can do all kinds of weird ****.

 

[paintballer51]

You are probably right but it also still started and ran fine before this..

 

[Jeepwalker]

JWS123's post (above) makes a good point: Back several years ago there were a lot of posts on the WINmodule (key switch module). It's an electronic module (box) behind where you insert your key. They would get wonky esp if guys had heavier key chains tugging down on the key as it was in the ignition. It puts sideways stress on internal contacts, and can cause (over time), loss of electrical contact & solder joints inside to weaken. The result is it can lead to a number of start/run problems, including just shutting off on the road or no-start. Sometimes even wierd-start issues too. The contact area a guy can often clean if ya remove the module, sometimes w/o actually disassembling the WIN unit. But often a guy needs to de-solder the stand-off pins to get at the contacts and flex them back into position ...and re-do any cold solder joints if present.

If you go to Y/T there are a lot of videos how to R&R. Just type in Ram Win Module, or Key Switch. You can see what you're up against. If you wanted to just replace it, there's a guide detailing the various module types which were used over the years & vehicles. They used these in other Chrysler cars too, so the issuue isn't just a Ram issue. I've had my truck not start a time or two on first turn of the key. I need to clean mine one of these days too.

At one time WIN module posts were real common. No so much these days since they moved to push button start. New modules aren't cheap, so making an attempt to R&R kind of makes sense for some DIY guys. But it depends on your comfort level. Removing the unit isn't difficult.

 

[paintballer51]

I will look into that and mine is very wonky, still bothers me that it worked before this..

I'm going to go get cam and a crank sensors just because, then do the Wim Module regardless. my truck has shut off while driving a few times in the past...

 

[paintballer51]

Well it didn't get the truck to run but I wish I would have taking apart and cleaned the Win Module probably two years ago lol. On to more scan tool. Ongoing appreciation for everyone here!!

 

[paintballer51]

Not figuring **** out getting frustrated, can't test certain things without the truck running so I'm screwed there.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Are you getting absolutely nothing? I mean, it's not even firing at all? No backfires?

I guess if it were my truck I would

1) Put the #1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke, and ensuring the timing lines up. Maybe you've done that already. Might be worth tripple-checking. I can't remember (sorry) if you did anything with the timing. Disregard if you haven't..
2) See if there's spark at the plugs. Are the plugs wet at all?
3) Test for fuel pressure.
4) I would test the crank and cam sensors with an ohm meter. I know you have new ones coming, but you could test them today yet. Make sure the scanner is giving you a 'good' on those sensors. In other words ...the computer is "Seeing" the sensors function.
5) Ensure the fuel pump is operating (I think you said it was...but I don't remember). Obviously you need proper fuel pressure.
5) Wiggle the key as you try to start it. Try starting multiple times. I'm guessing you've done this. In case the WIN module contacts aren't contacting.
6) If you are sure of the timing, have good fuel pressure, Crank & cam sensors seem good, engine grounds are good, all your wiring seems good, don't have spark and everything looks dead, I would maybe revisit the WIN module, and/or dig into the TIPM. And/or check critical wiring from the crank/cam sensors to the TIPM (in case one got pinched/corroded). There have been guys on the forum who've had to chase shorts in engine wires ...one by one.

TIPM: There were known TIPM (the computer) weaknesses on those early Rams. Most of the issues were associated with the fuel pump relay. So if your fuel pressure is good, then I'm not sure if the TIPM would be at fault. That's why it would be good to check the fuel pressure. There's also the fuel pressure regulator back by the brake booster. But if fuel pressure is good, then...maybe those aren't the issue. If it's poor, a guy can bypass the TIPM f/p relay, or swap out that relay for another like one on the board. If you considered 6-starts a day for 23 years that's 50k+ relay starts. New ones on ebay (HERE) are not much. Or, maybe somehow the board got cooked in the process of your work. Doesn't seem likely. Again, ya hate to start thinking 'computer'. Maybe wait for the cam and crank sensors to arrive, and if nothing there, ...then ensure wiring to the TIPM and/or later, perhaps consider the TIPM. See some info HERE. Are there any relays in the fusebox that would prevent it from starting? Just thinking out loud here.... throwing ideas against the wall.

I know how frustrating it can be.... Been there...

 

[paintballer51]

Just wasted money on Cam and Crank Pos sensors.

Still will only "start when I mash the pedal", cam and crank wires look fine. Just like before, truck started fine before the lifter replacement. I didn't mess with the timing, I had the head resurfaced, valves and everything should have been fine, new head gasket, new intake gaskets, new exhaust manifold gaskets, the whole 9 yards. Also remember the i have decent experience and have done a cam/lifters on this truck before with zero issues and without you tube lol.

Just really don't know what I am missing...

 

[jws123]

Dont have time to re read all the posts but did you ever check compression?

 

[Jeepwalker]

At this point, there's probably no easy shoot from the hip answer or miracle cure. You're probably going to have to go back and verify the basics and methodically work up from there:

Have spark?
Fuel pressure?
Compression?
Sensors good?
Wiring ok?
Fuel injectors firing?

...and so on...

 

[Jeepwalker]

You can download the factory manual off this site ...do a search. By the time you get it going you'll be much more knowledgeable on Ram engines. Take your time and go step by step ...as frustrating as it is. You'll get it.

Or you could have it towed to a good local mechanic if you've had enough.

 

[Daytona 1500]

I have been reading all of these posts. Have you found the issue. I'm having the same problem with my Ram. I have basically replaced every sensor and still no start. Going to jump the tipm. But have you diagnosed the issue