5w20 or 5w30

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Hemi395

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I run oil pan heaters on everything I drive in the winter,except my company vehicle,it's lucky if it gets plugged in,lol.A stick on 150w oil pan heater and a block heater means they'll start at -35,and helps keep the initial rattling to a mininium,lol.
What are you using for a pan heater? I'm torn between the magnetic ones and the stick on ones....
 

Wild one

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What are you using for a pan heater? I'm torn between the magnetic ones and the stick on ones....

Hopefully this works.I just use these little guys that Canadian Tire carries up here.I clean the pan usually with laquer thinner,but gas will also work,just don't smoke while using gas or for that matter laquer thinner,then give it a quick scuff with 180 grit sandpaper,followed up by a wipe down with Acetone,and so far I've never had one fall off "yet",lol .I've done 3 over the last 10years that way and they seem to hold up okay.I'm a little leary of going much more then 125 or 150 watts,as the little 125 watt versions seem to put a fair bit of heat in the oil,and i'd be a little scared of boiling/burning/baking the oil with a bigger one.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...engine-heater-125w-0300004p.html#.VIOR43ivtkg
 
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Hemi395

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Hopefully this works.I just use these little guys that Canadian Tire carries up here.I clean the pan usually with laquer thinner,but gas will also work,just don't smoke while using gas or for that matter laquer thinner,then give it a quick scuff with 180 grit sandpaper,followed up by a wipe down with Acetone,and so far I've never had one fall off "yet",lol .I've done 3 over the last 10years that way and they seem to hold up okay.I'm a little leary of going much more then 125 or 150 watts,as the little 125 watt versions seem to put a fair bit of heat in the oil,and i'd be a little scared of boiling/burning/baking the oil with a bigger one.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...engine-heater-125w-0300004p.html#.VIOR43ivtkg

Thanks, that gives me an idea what to look foremoji106.png

What does it bring the oil up to on a cold start when its had time to really heat up?
 

Wild one

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Thanks, that gives me an idea what to look foremoji106.png

What does it bring the oil up to on a cold start when its had time to really heat up?

I've never actually put a thermometer to it,but the oil is warm to touch when you pull the dipstick.I have my outdoor plug on a switch,so I usually just flip the switch an hour or 2 before hand,and the dipstick will be warm even at -15F. They make a noticeable difference in how things start at -15 and colder.
 

Hemi395

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I've never actually put a thermometer to it,but the oil is warm to touch when you pull the dipstick.I have my outdoor plug on a switch,so I usually just flip the switch an hour or 2 before hand,and the dipstick will be warm even at -15F. They make a noticeable difference in how things start at -15 and colder.

Think you talked me into one, thanks!
 

MileHighRam11

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Have some of you tried blending the two? I have an oil change coming up soon and already have 5 qts of 5w-20 PUP laying around. Good/bad idea to add 2 qts of 5w-30 PUP? I’ve been intrigued for a while.
 

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There's no problem mixing two oils, especially same brand if you are trying to use up old oil. The Pennzoil synthetics tend to be on the lower end of viscosity when talking about their 30 and 40 weights with 5 or less winter rating. So there is little difference in viscosity anyhow between PUP 5w20 or 5w30, the 20 weight would be at 9 operating visc (cSt), the 30 weight would be around 10 cSt. In comparison something like Redline would be 3 viscosity between the two, so that decision would not be as easy.
 

Joeram

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I don't think it matters what type of oil (synthetic/conventional) or brand one uses. I live on the Mass/NH border and have always used conventional oil...43 years now. I've always gotten at least 200,000 miles on most of my vehicles. In 15,000 more miles I'll have reached the 300,000 mile plateau on my little commuter. I also have a 15 RAM 5.7 which I use 5w-20 in. Gonna keep her till there's more holes in her than tin. The oil change interval is far more important than type or brand IMHO.
 

OCDTech

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My belief is that the 0W20 is too thin for cold start short trip and then a shutdown and fully cooled off, and that it is actual draining the oil out of the lifter when a small amount should remain as would be the case with a thinker oil, i.e. the 20 when heated.


Finally i know now why we can't crank move and shut off our trucks without the tick on next start. Thank you. I know others may have talked of this possibly, but your the first i've seen of it.
 

crackerjack1957

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climate certainy does, you obvious have no background in science or engineering. cheers

Climate doesn't give a f*** who or where your engine was built or the clearance on the bearings....LoL
You obviously didn't read this as it was meant to be.......I'm saying climate is going to change oil viscosity no matter who or where your engine was built or clearances......hence climate doesn't give a f***
So who's the dumb f*** now.......& this is how you spell certainly & obviously.........LoL

Even the link that you quoted was talking about temperature (which varies by region climate) & viscosity
Fairly sure you read climate doesn't give a f*** as climate doesn't make a f***
If not who gives a s***.............LoL

https://www.lubricants.total.com/consumers/maintenancetips/Oil-viscosity-and-oil-grades

https://www.ramforum.com/posts/2179168/
 
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pacofortacos

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Finally i know now why we can't crank move and shut off our trucks without the tick on next start. Thank you. I know others may have talked of this possibly, but your the first i've seen of it.

That's where the oil filter comes into play. The OEM filter is poor after about a 1000 miles or so, at least on 5.7 - which is strange because the 090 filter used on the 5.9 was very good about start up tick.

The RP filter I used was better.

So far the NAPA platinum seems to be working really well, but I don't have many miles on it yet.
 

crackerjack1957

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I still think it's mostly the bleed off from check ball on lifters......quality of lifters


This is related to hydraulic lifters but roller hydraulic are built with same type internals.

What Happens When Hydraulic Valve Lifters Aren't Working

Generally speaking, when hydraulic valve lifters aren't working properly, you may hear a knocking noise when you start the engine. If this happens every time you start the engine, then it can mean that the oil in the engine is too heavy for the current temperatures, or that there is too much varnish in the lifter. Another indication that the hydraulic valve lifters aren't working is intermittent knocking, which can be caused by leakage at the check ball seat, which can be due to varnish or just particles getting in there that don't belong there.


http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/articles/how_hydraulic_valve_lifters_work.pdf

And here about middle of video check ball is assembled

 
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OCDTech

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That's where the oil filter comes into play. The OEM filter is poor after about a 1000 miles or so, at least on 5.7 - which is strange because the 090 filter used on the 5.9 was very good about start up tick.

The RP filter I used was better.

So far the NAPA platinum seems to be working really well, but I don't have many miles on it yet.

I was reading this thread when i came across your vvt issue. I know it was with 30 weight. But what brand? RL? Or somthing else?


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crackerjack1957

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More updated version on roller hydraulic lifters....Mopar specific.....I'm going with incorrectly assembled lifter new or remanufacture because of manufacturing tolerances in this area.
I say this because lots of us keep our engines clean.

What could be causing the noise?

As we have discussed, there are several small parts internal of the lifter. Failure of any of these parts in addition to any other worn valve train components can cause noise.

• Number one cause of noise is dirt, causing the check valve ball to not seat

• Any lack of lubrication between the rocker arm and the pushrod

• Lack of lubrication on the rocker and end of the valve

• Worn cam lobes

• Loose valve seat

• Excessive clearance between the lifter and the bore and the block

• Broken valve spring

• Incorrectly assembled lifter new or remanufacture

• Incorrect valve adjustment

http://www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ317_46-52.pdf
 
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Konrad

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I don't think it matters what type of oil (synthetic/conventional) or brand one uses. I live on the Mass/NH border and have always used conventional oil...43 years now. I've always gotten at least 200,000 miles on most of my vehicles. In 15,000 more miles I'll have reached the 300,000 mile plateau on my little commuter. I also have a 15 RAM 5.7 which I use 5w-20 in. Gonna keep her till there's more holes in her than tin. The oil change interval is far more important than type or brand IMHO.

This. ^^^
Our second car is a 1999 Mercedes ML320 with 302027 miles as of today. The ********* Daimler-Chrysler (back then) product, running its whole life on ********* Castrol product - GTX 5W-30, which isn't even recommended for that engine. Extremely reliable and still running strong, burns about .75 -1 quart between oil changes, believe it or not.

Oil changed religiously every 3000 miles (because it was cheap and a good excuse to meet with the boys in the garage LOL).






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