Best way to re-adhere the rubber strips on top of the cab that wrap down to the rear window..

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corneileous

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Mods, if this is in the wrong spot, put it wherever it needs to be but I figured in hopes of getting help from everybody here regardless of what year truck they have if they still have these rubber pieces that I’m talking about on top of their cab I figured I’d get better responses this way but anyways, what’s the best thing to use that would make more of a permanent solution to keeping that rubber strip that’s on top of the cab that goes down and stops right at the top of the back window stuck down? It didn’t take long after buying the truck before it started coming unstuck so I used a piece of that gray 3M double-stick tape like they use on the stick-on vent visors for windows but that only lasted about three years.

I don’t know, maybe I didn’t clean it good enough the first time so I guess I could just try it again with the same stuff but was just curious if there was anything better. I thought about trying some weatherstripping adhesive but I wasn’t sure if that was ok to use in an outdoor application.
 

DILLIGAF

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Where are you buying that at Ian. I need to do a bit of dash gluing ,and so far i haven't found anything that works for any length of time.

Rock Auto used to carry it for 9$ A tube. Never found it anywhere at a decent price up here. But AliExpress has it.

Learned about that **** when I stared working on VWs

 

GTyankee

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REINZOSIL-t is the transparent version of REINZOSIL. The silicone sealer is used both as a formed in place gasket for liquid application, as well as for sealing off cracks in parts.

Is part of DANA Corporation
Maumee, Ohio
 

HemiLonestar

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Hmm, I saw that stuff at O’reileys but I guess I didn’t see that it said it was for trim, too. I guess that stuff I was reattaching could be considered trim. Guess I’ll try that if the weatherstripping adhesive doesn’t work.
Worked perfectly for the one that peeled up on my Magnum.
Clean the channel with rubbing alcohol and use painter's tape to hold it in place while drying.
This.
 
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corneileous

corneileous

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Clean the channel with rubbing alcohol and use painter's tape to hold it in place while drying.
That was exactly what I did, lol. I cleaned the channels and the rubber stuff with rubbing alcohol the best I could and then I applied a small beac of the adhesive to both the cab and that rubber strip and let it sit for a few minutes and then as soon as I its reapplied it, it was stuck but for good measure I went ahead and took some masking tape and put on it just in case that it was on there for about two or three hours. Went out there and pulled the tape off and to my surprise this morning, both ends were still stuck and haven’t pulled loose so we’ll see.
 

Wild one

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Rock Auto used to carry it for 9$ A tube. Never found it anywhere at a decent price up here. But AliExpress has it.

Learned about that **** when I stared working on VWs

Found it on Amazon.ca,but damn they seem to think it's gold plated.

 

Mister Luck

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A clear silicone like 3M will work
use solvent grade alcohol to clean before application
place plastic stretch wrap between door and frame while curing.

Unless “top of cab” is meant to be “roof of cab” and “rubber strips” are instead “body moulding” then forget the stretch wrap and use aircraft or marine grade adhesive

E38B96C7-AFE3-4BD9-85EB-FC5CF28AF342.jpeg
 
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corneileous

corneileous

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A clear silicone like 3M will work
use solvent grade alcohol to clean before application
place plastic stretch wrap between door and frame while curing.

Unless “top of cab” is meant to be “roof of cab” and “rubber strips” are instead “body moulding” then forget the stretch wrap and use aircraft or marine grade adhesive

View attachment 490941
I just used regular ole rubbing alcohol but I tried to find some kind of adhesion promoter stuff at oreileys but they didn’t have it. I think that’s what it’s called because way back when I had put a set of chrome stick-on door handles on my old truck and they came with several pre-packaged wipes that wasn’t just alcohol and if I remember correctly, it said adhesion promoter.
 

HemiLonestar

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A clear silicone like 3M will work
use solvent grade alcohol to clean before application
place plastic stretch wrap between door and frame while curing.

Unless “top of cab” is meant to be “roof of cab” and “rubber strips” are instead “body moulding” then forget the stretch wrap and use aircraft or marine grade adhesive

View attachment 490941
When you absotively posilutely don't ever want it to come off ever again lol. We used to use this **** when I was in USCG to seal soft patches, outboard brackets to transoms, etc. Whenever we removed an outboard it generally took some gelcoat with it lol. The soft patches to remove the larger diesels generally had to be damn near chiseled out and generally had to use a come-a-long or hoist to pop it loose even after all the bolts had been removed.
 

Mister Luck

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Disclaimer: 5200 can be applied underwater and care should be made not to create air pockets inside as these may trap contaminates and or moisture.

In general it stays in a flexible state.
its best to use small tubes because once opened the shelve life is only three to five days at best, you can cut open the tube and use a spatula type tool for application if the neck and cap (after opening) become fused together.
 
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HemiLonestar

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Disclaimer: 5200 can be applied underwater and care should be made not to create air pockets inside as these may trap contaminates and or moisture.

In general it stays in a flexible state.
its best to use small tubes because once opened the shelve life is only three to five days at best, you can cut open the tube and use a spatula type tool for application if the neck and cap (after opening) become fused together.
Why are you telling me this like I've never used it before?
 
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