Buying a Trailer - Advice Appreciated

[dhay13]

My son has a 2018 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK with 2 slideouts. Dry weight is about 6600lbs. I towed it 200 miles twice with my 2013 1500 Hemi with 3.55 gears and 6 speed auto. It pulled it fine but coming out of West Virginia on the highway I was hitting about 4000 RPM at the top of the hills to keep my speed. He has the Husky TS WD hitch and it worked great. Has the anti sway built in. The trailer towed great. I towed my daughters 4000 lb 25' camper back and forth on that same trip without the WD hitch and it swayed pretty good. But his bigger camper with the WD hitch towed flawlessly.

 

[Exdeus]

My son has a 2018 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK with 2 slideouts. Dry weight is about 6600lbs. I towed it 200 miles twice with my 2013 1500 Hemi with 3.55 gears and 6 speed auto. It pulled it fine but coming out of West Virginia on the highway I was hitting about 4000 RPM at the top of the hills to keep my speed. He has the Husky TS WD hitch and it worked great. Has the anti sway built in. The trailer towed great. I towed my daughters 4000 lb 25' camper back and forth on that same trip without the WD hitch and it swayed pretty good. But his bigger camper with the WD hitch towed flawlessly.

Thank you! I've heard great things about the Grand Design brand. How do you or your son like that camper for longevity and durability? Comfort?

 

[AFMoulton]

If I could go back and buy one again, it would be a grand design, hands down probably the best made stuff out there.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[MegaRam18]

The closer you get to 30 foot, the fewer National Parks you will be able to fit in. 28' and under would be better.

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[sandawilliams]

The closer you get to 30 foot, the fewer National Parks you will be able to fit in. 28' and under would be better.

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Exactly. I have a 28' and many places its to tight to impossible to camp. If you want a parking lot camper as many do- usually private, then go for it. If you want to really camp buy something you can handle between tight trees, around a tight corner backing up, and steep enough that you have to put it in 4X4 low range to get it up the hill. Been there, done that many times.

 

[dhay13]

Thank you! I've heard great things about the Grand Design brand. How do you or your son like that camper for longevity and durability? Comfort?

He bought it around October cause he needed it before winter since he pretty much lives in it. He was using my daughters older one before that but with winter coming needed a 4 seasons camper. He used it until late December then was transferred and commuted each day until about 6 weeks ago when he towed it 200 miles from here with a company owned Duramax. So far he has had no problems. He stays in it 6 days a week. One issue he had was 2 of his holding tank valves would not open. The black tank and the gray tank from the kitchen sink. The other gray tank from the shower and bathroom sink opened no problem. He fought with the other 2 for a few days. The one actually broke off somehow but he got it open but he needs to use vise grips to open that one. Taking it in for repair isn't an option cause he can't go without it for that long. But now that he got them open they move freely now.

 

[mtofell]

Power wise, the Hemi should be fine. The 3.21 gears are a bit of a limiting factor but the 8spd tranny really helps mask that non-towing friendly gearing. Lots of good info here already.

I haven't seen much talk of your question about air bags. I'd definitely recommend them when towing this close to the upper limits of the truck. They are in no way a substitute for a properly installed WDH but really help keep the truck level and enable you to put as much weight as possible on the truck. The basic physics of it is that heavier tongue weight helps reduce sway but at anything near max payload your headlights will be pointing at the sky - many of the trucks in the pictures posted would really benefit from bags. This is the conundrum with 1500 trucks. We all want them to ride like Cadillacs but then the soft suspension sags under load.

For the trip you are thinking of, if there is any way to pull it off, a 2500 truck is the right tool. Micromanaging every piece of clothing you bring is kind of a crappy way to travel. A 2500 will have +/- double the payload with substantially larger brakes and more capable suspension. If not I get it but just wanted to throw that out there.

 

[Exdeus]

Power wise, the Hemi should be fine. The 3.21 gears are a bit of a limiting factor but the 8spd tranny really helps mask that non-towing friendly gearing. Lots of good info here already.

I haven't seen much talk of your question about air bags. I'd definitely recommend them when towing this close to the upper limits of the truck. They are in no way a substitute for a properly installed WDH but really help keep the truck level and enable you to put as much weight as possible on the truck. The basic physics of it is that heavier tongue weight helps reduce sway but at anything near max payload your headlights will be pointing at the sky - many of the trucks in the pictures posted would really benefit from bags. This is the conundrum with 1500 trucks. We all want them to ride like Cadillacs but then the soft suspension sags under load.

For the trip you are thinking of, if there is any way to pull it off, a 2500 truck is the right tool. Micromanaging every piece of clothing you bring is kind of a crappy way to travel. A 2500 will have +/- double the payload with substantially larger brakes and more capable suspension. If not I get it but just wanted to throw that out there.

Appreciate the reply. I am looking at a few 2500's and toying with the idea of grabbing one in a month or two. Honestly, the 3500's are virtually the same price with the diesel, so I don't see a reason to not just go that route. Also may explore some of the F250/350 variants just to humor myself, but think the Cummins is the way to go.

 

[AFMoulton]

Appreciate the reply. I am looking at a few 2500's and toying with the idea of grabbing one in a month or two. Honestly, the 3500's are virtually the same price with the diesel, so I don't see a reason to not just go that route. Also may explore some of the F250/350 variants just to humor myself, but think the Cummins is the way to go.

If you are going to tow 80-85% of the time Cummins is absolutely the way to go! And if you are doing that buy a 3500! Then Payload becomes and after thought! Looked at a SRW CCLB 3500 the other day, paylod was almost 4500lbs and it had the 1000ft-lb Cummins in it! Was like 25,000lb trailer! LoL

Over kill for me right now as my truck is 95% commute/5% towing, so I went gasser 2500. Does great, and I’d love to have a diesel, but after my cost comparison, I can buy almost 65,000 miles worth of gas for what the diesel would cost me up front.

I think you are on the right track with everything, look hard at payload numbers on 2500 Cummins trucks, it will surprise you how low they are.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[mtofell]

I can buy almost 65,000 miles worth of gas for what the diesel would cost me up front.

This is something that people often lose sight of in wanting/justifying a diesel. It takes a long time for the cost to pencil out.

In eyeing a new truck someday it's a tough decision but really just comes down to what I need it to do. That HO Cummins with the Aisin and 1000 lb/ft of torque sure looks nice. Of course, the 2500 Hemi with the new 8spd should be an amazing combo. For OP's travel trailer needs that would be awesome setup for sure.

 

[dhay13]

For me I couldn't justify a diesel. I tow my boat 4 times a year (maybe more in the future if we go to Lake Erie or something). My 1500 towed it fine but I wanted to be legal so the 6.4 is perfect for me. I work from home and only drive about 6000-7000 miles a year. At that rate it would take me 20 years to break even. My son is a different situation. He drives about 30,000-40,000 miles a year for work and doesn't pay for fuel anyway. So factoring in depreciation the diesel will depreciate a lot less than the gas motor will. In 3 years with 100,000 miles the gasser will probably lose about 50% of its value where the diesel might only lose about 25%

 

[sandawilliams]

This is something that people often lose sight of in wanting/justifying a diesel. It takes a long time for the cost to pencil out.

In eyeing a new truck someday it's a tough decision but really just comes down to what I need it to do. That HO Cummins with the Aisin and 1000 lb/ft of torque sure looks nice. Of course, the 2500 Hemi with the new 8spd should be an amazing combo. For OP's travel trailer needs that would be awesome setup for sure.

1000 ft/lbs of torque sounds good but with torque management I don't think you can get near that to the ground. It would tear the rest of the drive train apart.

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Just do this

Watch "700HP+ 12 VALVE CUMMINS SWAPPED RAM 1500!!!" on YouTube

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[Ed Buchwald]

Don,t waste your money on inexpensive WDH. Go with at least a 1200 bar rating or 1400 with a heavy trailer. Setup is crucial for it to operate as intended, and may require a few hrs and different combos to get it right. Max air pressure on stock Ram tires to handle the wgt. they are P rated passenger tires and only have so much capacity. Look at your payload sticker in the driver door. It will suprize you. I have seen one ton SRW trucks with lower payloads than 1/2 tons properly equipped. Trailer should set level or just slightly lower in front. Never lower in the rear, or the tail will wag the dog. once you are set up load the trailer and
go to a public scale and check wgt on each axle. split trailer axles and side to side wgt to check for proper wgt dist. Check air in trailer tires. not enough air and you will induce sway and overheat tires. too much and it will ride like a tank. most trailer tires are speed rated at 65mph. if you must get there quicker , leave earlier. check manufacturers site for air pressure based on wgt being supported by tire and speed rating. redistribution of personal belongings will result in the best combination of ride and towability.
BTW I do this everyday. I work with the largest family owned RV dealer in the country. I would never recommend a trailer without knowing all the variables. We educate not only our customers , but the sales staff as well as the installation crew. Let me know if I can help.
Ed

 

[stevehh]

A good WDH, sway control, and trailer brakes are a must. Also, your lift will reduce your effective trailer weight rating. If you can't live with a tiny trailer I'd go for the 2500, or even better a 3500. A 3500 with air suspension will ride better unloaded than a 2500 without. I blew it and got a 2500 without - not a bad ride though.

Even without the lift when you start getting close to your rated trailer weight you're going to experience the influence of the trailer, more so at higher speeds.

 

[Randy Grant]

The weight ratings are a liability thing for the manufacturer. It is a few hundred below what a truck is able to handle safely with an experienced driver. The key word here is experienced. I have towed heavier than recommended many times, but you have to stay up on the wheel the whole time. Tiring. So, if you are uncomfortable towing, or inexperienced, stay within the recommended weights of the tow vehicle. Safe and slow until you get used to towing, and NEVER get over confident.

 

[TomB 1269]

Well ****, are you guys just basically running at payload or slightly over? I saw multiple 1500's at my last camp site all pulling 27' trailers. I find it hard to believe they were under 1,530 pounds payload with a family of four and the stuff in the beds of their trucks. Hmm...that is the only number s far out of all the numbers I've ran that seems to not work out for me. I am basically at 1,550 on a payload of 1,530 according to the book, assuming 610 for tongue weight + 400 pounds for batteries, propane and hoses.

Exdeus - the way I have always looked at trailers that I can or cannot tow with my truck is simple math. 1st determine the weight of your truck loaded as you would to go camping, i.e. wife dogs, beer, etc. also remember to add on to your trucks base weight, running boards, bed covers etc. (best way is to hit the scales and get a true weight for the truck), then subtract that from trucks GVWR, i.e the GVWR for your truck is say 7300, and with you in the seat it ways 5600, then add wife dogs, etc, maybe you are at 6200, that means you have 1100 in payload remaining which is the max amount of trailer tongue and gear you can add to the truck. Now tack the dry tongue weight of the trailer, 610 and divide it by the dry trailer weight say 5200 lbs dry (as shipped from factory including propane weight), this gives you .117 or 11.7% tongue weight, now take that 11.7% of the trailers GVWR and this is what your potential tongue weight (and most likely you will end up darn near the trailers GVWR when loaded to go camping, food, clothes, dishes, etc.) so a 7000lb GVWR with an 11.7% tongue weight will be 820 lbs of tongue weight on the truck. That 1100lbs of remaining payload just dropped to 280lbs. You put the 170lb tent in the bed and you 110 left.

Just a reminder..... Anything you can place in the trailer saves you payload on the truck, i.e. the 170 lb tent in the truck is 170lbs less payload, however in the trailer it only cost you 20lbs of payload.

As some others have suggested weight control add-ons are great as they do not increase your tow / payload capacity, put instead maintain the trucks attitude or stance which makes the truck work better when it comes to stopping, etc.

I like the monroe load control shocks. They ride nice for day to day use and will take the extra weight when towing etc. and do not require the upkeep and maintenance checks require with Air Bags. I have used both. My old F150 would only drop about an inch with 560lb of tongue weight on the ball and no WDH. (its a real nose heavy 12 foot enclosed trailer when the tools are not loaded in it, 560 tongue weight on about 2600lbs of trailer, actual CAT scales weights)

 

[Bluegill1]

Congratulations on deciding to do some camping. Others have posted good advice. Your dealer should be able to set up your weight dist hitch properly, just make sure your sway bar is tightened suffienctly when traveling.
Make sure you go on a couple of short camping trips to get the feel of everything before you attempt a long trip. This will certainly give you a confidence builder and you’ll work out any kinks on the small trips so your big trips will be without any surprises.
God luck and keep us posted on how things went.

 

[OC455]

Your dealer should be able to set up your weight dist hitch properly,

I would be careful in trusting a dealer. I had the place where I bought my trailer setup mine....it wasn't right. Not because they were negligent, it was because they weren't familiar with the WDH I bought. I would check everything before traveling.

 

[Exdeus]

Well so here is my most recent update. I went to the CAT scales and got the truck weighed. I was out of the truck standing on the scale when they weighed it, but shouldn't throw it that much. I weighed it with my wife, tent and awning on the truck and a full tank of gas. Rough news. It came in gross at 7,020 pounds which is already over the 6,900 max. Take the tent off and awning, maybe reduce it by another 170 pounds. My steer axle was at 3,780 (where I was standing so probably heavy) and my drive axle was 3,240 pounds.

The door jam sticker states a max payload of 1,200 pounds on my truck which I found afterwards. So, basically, my truck just with the tent and awning is already over weight GVW. We also found the trailer we are going to get, and are going to get the Grand Designs Imagine 2250RK. That has a tongue weight of 515 pounds and is 5,497 pounds unloaded and 6,995 gross. I do have E rated tires on the truck which are 75 pounds a piece, so that certainly added to the weight. Either way, extremely disappointed with the capacity of this truck.

I drive about 25,000 miles a year. I like the idea of the 2500 Cummins, but am not sure the price range is where I will want to be payment wise. Also not quite at break even with the current truck and don't want to take a loss. Maybe I can part out the mods I have on it to make that back. I may try and see how the truck does on a short trip with the trailer with no tent and no awning on it and a good weight distribution hitch. Not sure though. I may need to upgrade the truck which sucks. I like my truck

Curious what the MPG of the 6.7L Hemi with 4.10 is compared to the Cummins 3.42. This is my daily driver, and I will likely add the AEV lift and at least 35" tires as well.

Even if I get the 2500, it seems like a 5th wheel is beyond that capability too somewhat. I want to be able to offroad the truck, so a dually is NOT what I want. Guess I have some trade offs to think about!

Man...decisions! Appreciate any other thoughts as I may be looking for a new truck now!