Charonblk07's build thread

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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Got the engine bay all cleaned up and finished a few small mods under the hood so I can finally take pictures of it and not want to cry about how dirty and unorganized it is.


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Here's the battery tray that's been turned into a place to keep my extras organized
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Here's the KillerGlass installed
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Got the Halos finally wired up
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Dubstep Shep

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Man, just read through this and it's good stuff. You have far more patience than me for these things.

Awesome build!
 

Hemi450hp

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The build is coming along great. Is your battery in or under the bed?
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Man, just read through this and it's good stuff. You have far more patience than me for these things.

Awesome build!

My wife says I have the right amount of stupid to do this, lol.

The build is coming along great. Is your battery in or under the bed?

The batteries are in the tool box in the bed of the truck.
 

Hemi450hp

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Gotcha. Any plans to get it on the track this year?
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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If I can fix my head gasket issues then I'll be at the track in the next month or so. I'm trying a Cometic MLS gasket because they're only $200 for the pair so we'll see if that's enough to stop the cylinder gasses from penetrating through the gasket. If not then I'm going to try the Cometic Phuzion o-ring gaskets at $500+ for the pair. If that doesn't work then I'll have to copper o-ring the head and I really don't want to do that unless I absolutely have to.

It's sad when I just finish putting everything together and 2 weeks later I'm blowing through the head gaskets again. I was getting lots of misfires and dropping power at moderate boost, did a compression check and 4 cylinders were at 160+ psi, 3 were at 120-130psi, and #7 was at 90psi. I think I found the issue :crazy: If this doesn't fix it then I'm looking for a new 370 shortblock because this PWR has been nothing but trouble since day one.
 

Hemi450hp

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PWR went downhill in a bad way this year. Hopefully the gaskets will cure the issue. I'm ready to see you start putting down some ET's.
 

Dubstep Shep

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That's ridiculous that you're only running 15psi and you're losing head gaskets. There are mod motors making 1000hp on 25lbs of boost without head gasket problems, and they're aluminum blocks.
 
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charonblk07

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Matt, this truck isn't really set up for the drag strip so I'm not hanging much on the ET/mph like a lot of people, I'm going to just to see what it will run; I love top speed runs, which is where I have made myself very happy. Nearest strip is 3hrs away so it's not convenient for me, but I have a paved 10km stretch of private road out to a friend's ranch with one other house on the road whose owner is also an automotive enthusiast. Being able to push my 5900lb QC 4wd to 275km/hr and having it handle perfectly makes me happy. I'm going to try another top speed run with the new 175 shot and see where I end up.

Those mod motors are not running a stock gasket which I was 'assured' would hold up just fine with the ARP studs. I didn't use stock gaskets on my last truck so I don't know why I let them talk me into it on this one. I'm getting my ported heads checked for warpage then bolting them back on in prep for the new cam I'll be getting next winter.

I bought the block 2.5 years ago when PWR was still a respectable company, but it's just last year that everything's come out about their business practices. I knew my crank was used when I bought everything but I was kinda choked when I saw that the crank had already been pinned 3 times and I've regularly had to add 1qt of oil every 1000kms, less often now that I've moved up to 0W-40 but I shouldn't have to run such a high weight just to stop these issues.

If I get a new block I'm making sure I get a set of notched pistons so I can run a healthy blower cam. I need to find something else to distract me from spending money on this truck, lol.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Those mod blocks actually are running stock gaskets in some cases. Not all, but a lot of people don't like the cosmetic gaskets. A few people have had issues with their heads and block being too smooth and not gripping the gasket though. Not sure if that could be part of your issue or not.

This is why I want a corvette. Aftermarket block and head designs with 6 bolts per cylinder.
 
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charonblk07

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Alright, so since I have the heads off again for the 2nd time in 2 months, I decided to go all-out for this and have been taking some serious time to get it all perfect. I swapped the lightweight valves and 1511 spring kit w/ titanium retainers into the ported heads that I spend a full day cleaning up with buffing wheels, 2000 grit sand paper, and 1 burned out Dremel tool. I then spent 6 hours lapping all the valves to make sure everything's nice and seated in the ported heads.

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Then I turned my attention to the headers. I can remember a conversation I had with the guys at the local performance store: "Use the black header wrap, it'll look good" ... well it did, until it got heat cycled a few times and cooked the coloring right out of it.

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Last time I wrapped one side with a 'Volcanic' header wrap and it held up quite nicely so I wrapped the driver's side this time in the same stuff. I'm getting way too much practice wrapping long tube headers, this is the 3rd time on this truck, not to mention having it ceramic coated at the start only to find I was melting plastic parts 3" away from the headers.

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Then I added a new set of Stage 8 locking fasteners, I love these things.

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And since I'm in there already with lots of extra space I've decided to install a remote oil filter so I can get to it easier and not get oil all over my front crossmember every time I change the oil. Got the new filter mount positioned on the inside frame rail just behind the radiator.

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Last thing I'm doing this round is to get rid of the OEM A/C hoses that run across the top of the engine. I've always hated them being up there and all ugly and visible. SO, I contacted Vintage Air and they have a few fittings for their resto-mod gen III hemi systems. I picked up their OEM A/C compressor fittings as well as a set of weld-on fittings.

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I cut the OEM hard lines and tweaked their shape a bit to better serve the new expected layout. Now I just have to braze the stainless fitting to the aluminum tubing.

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MADDOG

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Nicely done Kurtis!

Hopefully that is the last go around with the headers.

Using Stage 8 fasteners is always a good idea. They work well.
 
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charonblk07

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*Sigh* I was going to go racing today but I went to tighten up one of the fittings on my relocation kit, had to pull the hoses off to do it, put them on backwards again and drove around the block with no oil pressure because I'm an idiot and didn't check when I fired the truck up LIKE THE DIRECTIONS SAY TO DO. No damage to the top end and I can't hear anything in the bottom end so I may have dodged a major bullet there, but I did fry the rear main seal I suspect since I have oil dripping out from between the engine and trans, so no racing for me today. Gotta buy a trans jack now but at least the parts are cheap, and I know I'll use the trans jack in the future so I may as well have one.

I did finish up the A/C hose install though, so now I can pressure test it and get it purged/filled and maybe the wife will ride with me this summer. I also did a full compression and leak down test on everything yesterday, I'm happy with the results, no cylinder leak down great than 15%, all cylinders between 125 and 150 psi (low compression pistons).
 
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N1ck

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That's brutal! Rick told me about that mishap yesterday, hopefully you get her up and going on the track soon.
 
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charonblk07

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Actually, looks like I don't have any oil leaking from back there anymore, I may have dodged a big bullet. Just need to clean it all up and see if anything comes back. Gonna lift it up and spend a few hours under there with a degreaser and a bunch of rags and clean everything up since I've had a lots of drips and sprays over the course of this build and there's a LOT of crap built up under the engine and trans. Then I'll be able to properly see if I have anything coming from the rear main.
 

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Whew...my fingers are crossed! Good luck, man. Hopefully it's tight and there are no leaks!
 
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charonblk07

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Ok, big and fun update to the truck. Now that we have a renter in our condo I have a little extra disposable income again as I'm not paying 2 mortgages anymore!

I changed out the rear main seal on my last days off to cover all bases from the oil leak I learned that it's worth spending the money on a quality piece of equipment. I picked up a trans jack from Princess Auto which is the Canadian version of Harbor Freight, well as I was repositioning the trans for the reinstallation the side-to-side adjuster failed which resulted in the transmission tipping sideways and falling off the jack (yes it was chained, the whole assembly tipped over); and with my luck it tipped over onto the side where the cooler hoses screw in and they were open so it dumped ALL the trans fluid onto the floor of my garage and almost landed on me in the process. Needless to say, there was about 10 minutes of some choice vocabulary followed by an attempt to clean up 9 liters of ATF. 3 rolls of shop towels and one of the wife's picnic blankets later I'd absorbed most of the oil and I walked away from it for the night. All is well and it's back running again.

That's the bad/annoying news, on to the good news!

Well, ok, so-so news first. I'm sick and tired of Procharger's bracket with the 6-rib belt, I've got lots of belt slippage and the tensioner's maxed right out and I've swapped to a larger idler pulley to try and tighten it up some. So I was looking at going to an 8- or 12-rib setup and I ran into the same problem, nobody makes a pulley swap kit so I'd have to build a bracket and run an independent drive. So I decided to say 'puck it' and I have ordered everything to go straight to a cog drive, to hell with belt slippage. I have to build a custom bracket myself anyways so I may as well go all out. I have the ATI sprag cog pulley which will make the kit street friendly and keep the blower spinning at a higher RPM while the engine ramps down which should stop me from shearing belt teeth.

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The ATI sprag is a 45 tooth pulley so I tried to get a 100 tooth crank pulley to spin the D1SC at it's max rpm but nobody makes one so I ended up with an 88 tooth that will bolt to the ATI 6% OD pulley I have to install. I figure I'll be able to make 18 psi with no belt slip with the pulley combo and if I upgrade to an F1-C in the future then I'll be able to downsize the blower pulley for more power. The whole project will probably cost me $2K by the time I'm done but then there will be blueprints for anyone else looking to do something similar in the future with either a cog or wide belt setup. I've found a few similar brackets that I can use for reference off the LS engines so it should look something like this

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And lastly, I now have a cam ordered through Modern Muscle Performance. We are still talking about the specs for it but it will most likely be a 218-230 cam with about .600 valve lift which will still clear my Manley pistons with the phaser limiter installed which will still give me 18 degrees of phase shift.

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I will have a bunch of goodies waiting at the border for me when I get back home from work next week so I'll have a nice drive to the border one day. Will be picking up my hidden hitch to sit behind the roll pan, some repair parts for my e-cutous since I blew the butterfly off of one of them, and a few cosmetic items like techflex for more wire covering. I have also decided to do the 4.56 gear swap with a DTT, so I'll have to save for a few months because I have to pay for everything I just bought! Don't tell my wife!
 

Dubstep Shep

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I'll say this;

In my opinion the majority of people's belt slippage issues are caused by insufficient belt wrap and/or tension, not the type of belt or the number of ribs.

I was running 17 lbs boost making 600rwhp on my mustang on a six rib belt. I had a 10% OD crank pulley and a 2.65" supercharger pulley, and ZERO belt slip. I also had a ridiculous amount of belt tension and belt wrap.
 
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