Consensus on 4" lift.

[RoadKing]

My lifted truck buddy that is 50 has been lifting trucks most of his life cautions me he would exceed 2" leveling. He believes its not worth it. Feels actual suspension lift to lower transfer case is required. ��

 

[Juvenator93]

My Mopar (Superlift) came with all the drop hardware necessary for the proper relocation of the front and rear axles. As well as a spacer for your front driveshaft. The angle change is very minimal. I'd be more weary of the angles on your front CVs with a leveling kit


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[RoadKing]

What brand tire are you running? I am wanting toyo rt but 34" may not come in 12.5 width i need to find out.

Hey is getting a speedometer recalibrated easy enough? I can remember years ago people going to do it and not able to get it done for some dump reason.

 

[Juvenator93]

Getting smart on lifts is not easy it's a bit of a rabbit hole. I see a lot of parts listed but knowing which part is lacking is not obvious to me yet.

For instance does any one see there is something obviously lacking on the Zone 4"?
.

You get rear coils


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[Juvenator93]

What brand tire are you running? I am wanting toyo rt but 34" may not come in 12.5 width i need to find out.

Hey is getting a speedometer recalibrated easy enough? I can remember years ago people going to do it and not able to get it done for some dump reason.

I was running a 305/70R17 KM2 (34x12) then bumped my Bils to 1.4 and put on 35x12.5R17 KO2s


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[Juvenator93]

I never did my speedo


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[Adam E]

Consensus on 4" lift.


Loved my 4" Mopar (Superlift). Comes with Bilsteins on all 4 corners. Ended up adjusting them to 1.4 and was running 35s on her. Paid $1865 for everything. BDS, Zone, or Superlift is what most would recommend. My biggest gripes with RCX lift on these trucks is that the rear they just pop in a spacer. No control arm brackets. Causing your rear angles to be all off. as you can see there are no drop brackets even on their 6" lift. Also the 4" with Bils at 1.4" puts you at a true 5" lift. Sits 1" lower front and rear than a 6" on the same size tires. Measured a few people's I've ran into. But like stated above, some people like their RCX lift. I mean I'm running their 2 1/2" level on my new truck, although it's temporary until I get Power Wagon springs

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Hi Juvenator93,

I know it's been a few years though do you remember the wheel to fender spacing with the shocks set to 1.4"
I have the same lift and the front shocks are current set to the highest position and my front end is higher than the rear.
I'm looking to get to the most level setting maybe with a little front rake so when I'm towing it's level.
Not sure if I should go down one notch or two. Two notches down would be the 1.4 setting.


https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y352A00.pdf

 

[Adam E]

I've got the 4" Superlift & am very happy with it. You won't go wrong with Superlift, Zone or BDS.





For winter I used the stock 20's with 275-65-20's & 1.5" spacers. I could have puts 35's on the stock rims but wanted a narrower tire for the snow.

Hi Joeygster,

Same question for you as well. By the way nice truck mine is very similar.
Maybe at some point I'll get to taking/uploading some pics.


I know it's been a few years though do you remember the wheel to fender spacing with the shocks set to 1.4"
I have the same lift and the front shocks are current set to the highest position and my front end is higher than the rear.
I'm looking to get to the most level setting maybe with a little front rake so when I'm towing it's level.
Not sure if I should go down one notch or two. Two notches down would be the 1.4 setting.


https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y352A00.pdf

 

[joeygster]

Hi Joeygster,

Same question for you as well. By the way nice truck mine is very similar.
Maybe at some point I'll get to taking/uploading some pics.


I know it's been a few years though do you remember the wheel to fender spacing with the shocks set to 1.4"
I have the same lift and the front shocks are current set to the highest position and my front end is higher than the rear.
I'm looking to get to the most level setting maybe with a little front rake so when I'm towing it's level.
Not sure if I should go down one notch or two. Two notches down would be the 1.4 setting.


https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y352A00.pdf

Mine sat higher on the front for the first week or so after the Bils were installed. It settled down though.

I just measured it now and it's almost identical at 9 1/2" from tire to the underside of my Bushwacker flares.

Hope that helps.

 

[FF1899]

You can go with a zone or bds 6 inch also. Choose the 3 inch rear coils instead of the 5 inch. Dont install the preload spacer and leave the bils at 0 if you put them on. This will leave you 5 front and 3 rear. If you decide to go higher simply replace the rear springs with the 5 inch coils and adjust the bils up. Will give you the ability to go up to 7.8 in the front and 5 in the rear later if you choose for minimal expense. It includes all brackets for the front and rear ant the ride quality is great.

 

[Adam E]

Mine sat higher on the front for the first week or so after the Bils were installed. It settled down though.

I just measured it now and it's almost identical at 9 1/2" from tire to the underside of my Bushwacker flares.

Hope that helps.

It does thank you!

I'm sitting 10 1/4" rear and 11 1/2" front right now with the Bils set to 2.8" though I don't have fender flares and there are a few things in the bed right now. The lift has been on for about 2 months now so I don't see it settling any further.

I was debating on going to 2.1 or 1.4 though after this info I'm sure I want to go to 1.4"

Thanks again!

 

[Adam E]

You can go with a zone or bds 6 inch also. Choose the 3 inch rear coils instead of the 5 inch. Dont install the preload spacer and leave the bils at 0 if you put them on. This will leave you 5 front and 3 rear. If you decide to go higher simply replace the rear springs with the 5 inch coils and adjust the bils up. Will give you the ability to go up to 7.8 in the front and 5 in the rear later if you choose for minimal expense. It includes all brackets for the front and rear ant the ride quality is great.

Thanks for the info though I already have the MOPAR kit installed.
I went with the MOPAR because I contacted FCA and they stated it would not void any factory warranties or my Lifetime MaxCare if it was installed by a MOPAR certified mechanic. Helped that I found the kit for $1200 at a South Florida Ram dealer and my brother is a FCA mechanic.

Looking to keep the truck for a while and I didn't want them to give me a hassle while trying to use my warranty 20 years from now.

 

[created1der]

I know this post is a thousand years old...but...
With this exact setup, do you know the height from your roof to the ground in inches?

 

[Korupt1]

Does anybody know what is the biggest lift kit that does not require cutting on a 2016 RAM Ecodiesel 4x4?

 

[rzr6-4]

Does anybody know what is the biggest lift kit that does not require cutting on a 2016 RAM Ecodiesel 4x4?

Assuming you are talking about cutting the fenders..... lifts don't require cutting, bigger tires do.

If not talking about fenders, you will need to elaborate.

 

[Korupt1]

Assuming you are talking about cutting the fenders..... lifts don't require cutting, bigger tires do.

If not talking about fenders, you will need to elaborate.

Not sure if anything has changed over the years but the last time I touched a truck with lift kits, there were some portions of the truck, transmission or other components that had to be cut in order to fit the new braces and brackets. I want to have a daily functional truck that can handle offroad about 1/3 of the time while running 35s, and still be converted back to stock if I choose so.

 

[Wulf]

Supposedly I can level the truck and put 35's on my sock 20 inch wheels. But the tire will not stick out at all

But if I choose aftermarket wheels with a level I can only put 33 on there but they will stick out a inch or so.

I really want to get the aftermarket wheels so your suggestion might be perfect

I was thinking similar lines to this, and actually asked the local dealer, a few years back now, about what was the biggest tire I could put on 'existing' equipment, stock, whatever you want to call it, so basically stock wheels, suspension, etc. without having to hack anything, and they gave me the dimensions I could work with. Now keep in mind, at least on my Warlock, they can come factory with 2 different size wheels, 17" and 20" (all 4 are the same size), so that could make a difference on your options as well, going by maximum outside diameter, as well as aspect ratio (tread to sidewall). If you order rims that have the same spacing, offset, etc. as stock, then any of the larger tires that fit the stock rims will stick out a little bit more.

I do not remember for sure if this makes a difference or not, but Blue has a 1" factory suspension lift, which makes the larger tires possible while keeping everything else the same. It might be 33" without mods, it might even be up to something like 33.5". I seem to remember them saying there was like another .5" I could squeeze out of it, but that is getting into custom molded tires, and I am not going that $$$ route.

 

[Korupt1]

I was thinking similar lines to this, and actually asked the local dealer, a few years back now, about what was the biggest tire I could put on 'existing' equipment, stock, whatever you want to call it, so basically stock wheels, suspension, etc. without having to hack anything, and they gave me the dimensions I could work with. Now keep in mind, at least on my Warlock, they can come factory with 2 different size wheels, 17" and 20" (all 4 are the same size), so that could make a difference on your options as well, going by maximum outside diameter, as well as aspect ratio (tread to sidewall). If you order rims that have the same spacing, offset, etc. as stock, then any of the larger tires that fit the stock rims will stick out a little bit more.

I do not remember for sure if this makes a difference or not, but Blue has a 1" factory suspension lift, which makes the larger tires possible while keeping everything else the same. It might be 33" without mods, it might even be up to something like 33.5". I seem to remember them saying there was like another .5" I could squeeze out of it, but that is getting into custom molded tires, and I am not going that $$$ route.

That helps. Thank you. I might have to just bite the bullet and get the long travel kit from Dirt King Fabrications.

 

[rzr6-4]

Not sure if anything has changed over the years but the last time I touched a truck with lift kits, there were some portions of the truck, transmission or other components that had to be cut in order to fit the new braces and brackets. I want to have a daily functional truck that can handle offroad about 1/3 of the time while running 35s, and still be converted back to stock if I choose so.

Once again having to assume, if you have a 1500 you will need to get a diff drop kit, angle correcting control arms, etc but to my knowledge you don't actually have to CUT anything.

 

[Wulf]

That helps. Thank you. I might have to just bite the bullet and get the long travel kit from Dirt King Fabrications.

No worries. Another thing to consider, and others will surely let me know if I am wrong on this, any change to suspension travel CAN (not WILL, but CAN) result in increased wear to parts, up to and including premature failure, voiding the warranty, etc. if it can be proven that the damage was caused by the wrong parts being used.

That being said, even though it is more expensive, go with the better quality part(s). It is literally what is keeping your backside in the seat and off the road. That, and if it is engineered correctly, a lot less likely to cause that increased wear from happening, or at least happening as fast.