Failed Oil Filter Housing / Oil Cooler

[FORGEDRAM]

Alright guys, the dreadful day has come. My Oil Filter Housing/Oil Cooler has failed @ 105K miles.

Here is a parts list I have whipped up. I plan on doing spark plugs, ignition coils, and valve cover gaskets in addition to upgrading to the Doorman Aluminum Filter housing.


Are there any parts that i'm missing here? Is there any other maintenance item I can knock out while I'm doing all of this?

What would be the best order of operations to attack all of these?
Any good tips to look out for while doing all of this is greatly appreciated as well.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Baxter performance cartridge to spin-on oil filter adapter

 

[BenchTest]

I'd suggest doing antifreeze, thermostat, and radiator cap as well. It's accessible and due (in my opinion). It's not an awful job to do. Patience is key. Plan on doing some fuel/air delivery maint. while in there. Good time to clean up that area (plenum, intake, throttle body, etc.)

 

[Nick14]

When I did mine, I installed new injector o-rings. I had to replace my rad as the petcock broke while draining. I also found it easier to remove the front wheels & set the control arms on 2x4's. I did my serp belt & tensioner also.

 

[Rocktd]

How did it go, partner? Were you able to complete the job?

 

[FLFBSManiac]

Any thoughts on the latest MOPAR OEM replacement housing and cooler vs Dorman or other third party? Mine is 2015.
Locally some guys are touting the latest OEM plastic as being “better”.
I’m in the dark. But I do enjoy that truck!

 

[MSDelta]

You may want to get some upper and lower intake gaskets and replace them or at least have them on hand in case you need them.

 

[FLFBSManiac]

Yes, that is the plan. Thank you.
I took it in to a garage for 100K tune up and I wanted the the oil filter housing changed then, after reading about the issues here.also thought coil packs should be replaced but the mechanic talked me out of the oil filter housing and coils. This time I’m doing coils, water pump, thermostat, and replacing the plastic housings - and anything else that will easy to get to.
Still not sure about which oil filter housing but I’ll check in if the one I put in ends up leaking. Thanks again.

 

[BenchTest]

Any thoughts on the latest MOPAR OEM replacement housing and cooler vs Dorman or other third party? Mine is 2015.
Locally some guys are touting the latest OEM plastic as being “better”.
I’m in the dark. But I do enjoy that truck!

I'm at about the 20k mark since I replaced my cooler with the Dorman unit. All seems to be good with it so far. It's not an awful job to do if you have moderate DIY skills, just take your time.

 

[FLFBSManiac]

Thanks, it’s done. I had to have it done, neck and back woes…mechanic insisted on OEM due reworks on aluminum replacements. No idea what issues caused the leaks on the aluminum housings.
Bad orings or bad installations? Damage upon installation? Anyway, we’ll see how this goes.

 

[Atcer2018]

Thanks, it’s done. I had to have it done, neck and back woes…mechanic insisted on OEM due reworks on aluminum replacements. No idea what issues caused the leaks on the aluminum housings.
Bad orings or bad installations? Damage upon installation? Anyway, we’ll see how this goes.

Please give us a long term update somewhere down the road. I went with the all aluminum Dorman kit a few weeks ago and install was pretty simple considering everything that needs to be removed to get to the housing. Dorman supplied all the cooler housing seals along with upper and lower intake manifold seals. I did use new OEM oil and coolant temp sensors on the Dorman so we’ll see how it holds up long term.

 

[Atcer2018]

I'm at about the 20k mark since I replaced my cooler with the Dorman unit. All seems to be good with it so far. It's not an awful job to do if you have moderate DIY skills, just take your time.

Bench got a question for ya. I too went with the Dorman all aluminum housing kit a few weeks ago. Install went well and I replaced the PCV, plugs, boots, serpentine belt, thermostat and upper radiator hose while I was at it. Also cleaned the throttle body and upper and lower manifolds from all the slimy oil coating. My question is how is your brake pedal when the truck is not running? If I remember correctly my brake pedal had a little give when initially depressing it to start the truck. Now it’s rock hard with no give but as soon as the truck starts it sinks about and inch and all is normal. No difference in performance or feel while driving and using the brakes only the initial hard pedal before starting. I took pics of all the hose and wiring routes and connections before disassembly and I believe it’s all back together correctly. Any ideas?

 

[Curmudgeon]

My truck is fairly different from yours, but the brake system might be close enough?
My pedal feels like a cinder block when I get in and I am often surprised that I can depress it enough for the truck to allow me to start it, but it always works.
Once the engine is running the brake pedal feels normal.
I really can't say how long it's been like that, but it's been quite a while. 106,550 miles, brakes and fluid replaced once by dealer around 92,000.

 

[BenchTest]

Bench got a question for ya. I too went with the Dorman all aluminum housing kit a few weeks ago. Install went well and I replaced the PCV, plugs, boots, serpentine belt, thermostat and upper radiator hose while I was at it. Also cleaned the throttle body and upper and lower manifolds from all the slimy oil coating. My question is how is your brake pedal when the truck is not running? If I remember correctly my brake pedal had a little give when initially depressing it to start the truck. Now it’s rock hard with no give but as soon as the truck starts it sinks about and inch and all is normal. No difference in performance or feel while driving and using the brakes only the initial hard pedal before starting. I took pics of all the hose and wiring routes and connections before disassembly and I believe it’s all back together correctly. Any ideas?

My pedal has normal "engine not running" feel to it - or better said, engine off, I can get 2 or 3 solid pedal pushes before it goes firm. These trucks do have an electronic vac pump in the vicinity of all the things that get disturbed during cooler surgery. Possible a line is disconnected/partially disconnected allowing vacuum to bleed down? Just a thought.

 

[Atcer2018]

My pedal has normal "engine not running" feel to it - or better said, engine off, I can get 2 or 3 solid pedal pushes before it goes firm. These trucks do have an electronic vac pump in the vicinity of all the things that get disturbed during cooler surgery. Possible a line is disconnected/partially disconnected allowing vacuum to bleed down? Just a thought.

Thank you for the reply. I checked all the connections today and everything is tight. Another poster suggested checking the inline “check valve”, unfortunately the dang check valve is behind the upper intake.

 

[Atcer2018]

My truck is fairly different from yours, but the brake system might be close enough?
My pedal feels like a cinder block when I get in and I am often surprised that I can depress it enough for the truck to allow me to start it, but it always works.
Once the engine is running the brake pedal feels normal.
I really can't say how long it's been like that, but it's been quite a while. 106,550 miles, brakes and fluid replaced once by dealer around 92,000.

Thank you, that information helps a lot. What you describe is exactly my “new” experience. Brakes work like they always have after the truck is started. Like stepping on a brick prior to start. Good to know it’s normal on other trucks too.

 

[FLFBSManiac]

My brake pedal feels the same as before, it gets alittle easier as the engine starts.
When in drive with my foot on the brake, I feel the rough idle even through the brake pedal. Still searching.