Going to install Edge Racing Torque converter, looking for pointers, tips, etc.

[jlpowell84]

Hey all. Been infected with the "modin disease" and I have come to installing this part. I may not do it still but if I end up doing it I want to be throughly prepared. It shipped out today and will be here Tuesday of next week and the following Sat is when I would get it done.

I have looked at a few threads and watched a vid of a gen 3 install. It seems this install has no tough bolts to reach, no stupid tight angles and no 13 yr old arms needed to reach the bolts...aka header installs...

Basically I am looking for any pointers, tips, tool lists (extension lengths?) etc. I have access to a lift and a trans lift so thats all covered. Also my mechanic will be next door if I run into any trouble. Essentially he will do it but I kinda want to attack it and think I can get the job done. To be fair I punted the headers to my muffler shop as it was a bit too much for me. I wasn't not confident in removing all manifold bolts without breaking any and some of the angles and working areas were too tight. I started on the hard driver side and got to the manifold bolts but stopped there. So if you feel this TQ instal is harder and I should defer fire away, I can take it So far my install are only an MBRP bolt on cat back and remove clutch fan/install efan with 180 stat. I have installed water pumps and basic stuff, never dropped a tranny so this would be the biggest job so far.


I found this from another site.
"Basically:
- Disconnect battery
- Set parking brake (unless you're going to be in the air)
- Remove driveshaft (or shafts if you are 4x4)
- Disconnect wiring from transmission and any wiring that is retained by the trans (my O2 sensor wiring is clipped to the top of it)
- Start unbolting, I started at the rear trans mount, then removed the crossmember
- Support trans with trans jack (these are INVALUABLE)
- Unbolt tie bar up front, this just bolted between the frame pieces, but it was in the way
- Unbolt girdle piece between engine and trans, this will allow you access to TC bolts
- Unbolt TC bolts
- Remove bellhousing bolts
- You will need a jack to support the engine itself since the trans mount usually does the rear supporting
- Here comes the fun part, you will need to wiggle the f*ck out of the trans to get it to come off the engine, you will end up doubting yourself and checking to see if you missed any bolts 12 times, just keep wiggling
- Once it's out, you can remove the TC, be careful it's heavy (full of fluid)
- Fill your new TC with fluid (you'll end up spilling some)
- Put new TC on to input shaft, you should feel 2 engagements, as the TC turns the input shaft AND the pump, make sure this goes all the way in like it's supposed to or you will regret it when you try to put it back in
- Reverse all steps, make sure you don't forget the stamped steel plate that goes between the engine and trans
- Once you're ready to start, set parking brake and shift engine to neutral, start engine and allow to warm up so you can check the fluid level (fluid check done while war, running and on level ground), top off fluid
- If you are able, reset transmission adaptives (not quick learn)
- Go for a drive

Now would also be a good time to put a nicer aftermarket pan on (with capacity and cooling fins) and maybe a bigger trans cooler if there is one for yours."

Here are some other pointers
"Best piece of advise is measure the depth of the stock converter when you drop the tranny. That way you can compare it after you install the new one. Alot of guys mess up at that specific part of the install. Make sure it clicks 3 times going on the imput shaft of the tranny."

"I drove down to delaware to do the install at MGH's shop this afternoon. Mike and his friend, Tom, were beasts and had it installed (start to finish) in less than 4hrs! I was mostly getting in the way. haha At least an hour of that time was because the stock tc bolts are bigger than the holes on the edge. Mike had to drill out and retap the holes on the edge tc and then sand down the length of the bolts.
So... now you guys know that the '12 flywheel/tc bolts won't work with the edge tc.

The tc is def. the best mod I've done so far! It feels like it has power throughout the entire rpm range. Feels totally different taking off from a dead stop. You don't get that lag when you feel like somethings holding you back."

So I assume Edge has refined their units so everything fits right, this was posted in 2012...

 

[jlpowell84]

this is for a gen 3 but he mentioned it should be very similar.

"This is a quick tutorial on installing a Torque Converter. The vehicle shown is a 2004 Ram 2500 Hemi 2WD. The install should be very similar to most other Rams as well.

Step One: Gather all required parts, supplies, and tools. Having access to a lift is highly advised. Some things you will need: Torque Converter, at least 17 quarts of ATF +4, tranny filter kit, RTV sealant, impact wrench/sockets, swivel adapter, a really long extension (i used a 36"), socket/wrench sets, torx drivers/bits, transmission jack, screw drivers, and a buddy or two to help.

Step Two: Get your truck up on the lift. Get it high enough so you can stand underneath it and work comfortably.

Step Three: Remove Drive Shaft. This was very easy. It can be accomplished by removing the 4 bolts that hold it onto the rear axle, then sliding it out of the transmission. (I am not positive, but this could be different for 4WD or half ton trucks)

Step Four: Drain Fluid from pan. (this step is optional. you can install a new converter without changing the fluid. this is totally up to you though) Having a drain plug helps tremendously. If you aren't fortunate enough to have one, then loosen up the pan until you can drop one corner and begin pouring the fluid out.

Step Five: Get your exhaust out of the way. I chose to totally remove my exhaust so I would have as much room to work as possible. To do this, just remove the 4 bolts attaching your Y pipe to your headers, then slide it off all the hangers. This is optional though.

Step Six: Remove all electrical connections, fluid lines, and dip stick tube. You can mark the wires with tape and a marker if you need to, but its pretty obvious which connecter goes where when reassembling. Next loosen the fluid lines that send and receive from the tranny cooler. just loosen the smaller nut with a wrench, and slide the tube out. (note, these will leak fluid). To take the dip stick off of the tranny, you will need to take two bolts out, one holding the tube above the pan, and the other holding it to the bell housing.

Step Seven: Remove Starter. It is attached to the bell housing on the driver's side. it is held in by two bolts. remove it, and secure it out of the way. I zip tied it to the frame.

Step 8: Remove the "structural dust cover" between the engine oil pan, and transmission. this will give you a little bit of access to remove the 4 bolts attaching the torque converter to the fly wheel. Then, using a large screw driver, or something of the sort, spin the fly wheel so you can take off each bolt. Or alternately, you could use a large ratchet, and spin the crank bolt to rotate the fly wheel.

Step 9: Support tranny with a tranny jack, and remove both cross members. This is fairly self explanatory, if you cannot figure this out, you probably should not be doing this procedure. It helps having an impact wrench to remove the cross members.

Step 10: Unbolt tranny from the engine. You are going to need a very long extension to do this. I used a 36" extension.

Step 11: Slide tranny back and out. Hopefully your tranny jack is on wheels.

Step 12: Slide off your stock torque converter. Watch out though, its pretty heavy for its size, and its going to leak fluid everywhere.

Step 13: Fill your new torque converter with a few quarts of fluid (I used 2) It goes in very slowly, so its going to take a while. I found that pouring in fluid, then spinning the converter helped the process move along a little quicker.

Step 14: Slide your new torque converter onto the input shaft. You will need spin the converter while sliding it on to make sure it lines up with and goes onto both sets of splines. Once it is all the way in, it should be about a half of an inch in from the edge of the bell housing. You can measure this with a straight edge across the housing and a ruler.

Step 15: Repeat all steps in reverse order to reinstall tranny.

Step 16: Fill up transmission with fluid through the dip stick tube.

 

[charonblk07]

That all looks great and a few things I'll add:


1. Pull the lower hose to the trans cooler first so you can drain that first then pull the upper hose and throw a Ziploc bag over the ends and tape it on there, they will continue to drip fluid through the whole process.


2. Turn the crankbolt on the engine to move the flywheel around to access the bolts. When reinstalling you just need to get one bolt started and snug before you can turn the FW and TC to get the rest of the bolts in.


3.You will have some troubles with getting the trans back due to the bracket from the engine mount to the starter location. A small pry bar here will help clear the bracket and you can pull the trans out at a slight angle.


4. Put cardboard down under the front of the trans, you will get fluid everywhere when you pull the torque converter even if you have a drain pan. It's slippery stuff and not what you want under your boots when under the truck.


5. When reinstalling the TC put it on and turn it. It should slide onto the shaft a total of 3 times: the initial engagement, the first engagement, and the second engagement. Measure the depth of the TC to be sure.


6. When reinstalling the trans, if it won't slide together on its own the TC is not seated all the way. Do not try to pull the trans together using the bolts, if it's having issues coming together, stop, pull the trans back and reset the TC. You don't want to damage anything on the input shaft, especially the pump.

 

[jlpowell84]

^Awesome man! This is EXACTLY what I was after Biggest project that I have personally tackled but I am confident. Nice truck BTW

It seems seating the TQ on the double splines is a common thing said when I researched.

 

[Rustycowl69]

there are two sets of splines AND the front pump dogs (slotted end of tc neck) to engage. If the converter isn't all the way in, and you try to draw the transmission up to the block, something is going to break, guaranteed.

 

[jlpowell84]

there are two sets of splines AND the front pump dogs (slotted end of tc neck) to engage. If the converter isn't all the way in, and you try to draw the transmission up to the block, something is going to break, guaranteed.

Yea I watched a youtube vid of a guy installing one into a hotrod tranny and he kept stressing to keep slowly turning and pressing in for a couple solid minutes.

 

[jlpowell84]

oh and what ATF fluid should I use? How much does the 65rfe take?

 

[BaghRam]

Honestly sir, if you are not confident enough to install headers, please have a transmission guru install your TC.

 

[jlpowell84]

Honestly sir, if you are not confident enough to install headers, please have a transmission guru install your TC.

Ok well this is the reason I made this thread. Tell me reasons why not? Do you really consider the TQ harder than headers? As far as I have read there is nothing technical, no crazy strict tolerances that need to be met. It's simply undoing bolts and paying attention to seating the TQ. There are no tight bolts to reach like headers. And like I ALREADY mentioned my lifelong mechanic with 40years experience is there. It's his shop, his lift, tranny lift, tools I will be using with his help from a distance if I yell for him.

The headers for me was that I didn't have all the tools really to do it. Muffler shop use a torch to heat the bolts quickly and back them out if needed. MY LACK CONFIDENCE was being able to back the bolts out without breaking any. If I had then thats where my confidence level was lacking. And I started on the drivers side, wheel liner, rim off, finally got dipstick bracket loose which took a couple hrs in its self. If you research many guys take 6-8hrs to install long tubes on these newer rams because of the drivers side. I personally feel in reading so far that a TQ is easier than headers but I humbly accept if I am wrong, that why I'm here

So I'm not here to stroke my ego or chat for no reason. I dont have the experience in automobile mechanic work and want to know all the specifics of this job to see if I feel comfortable attacking it. I have much experience in other areas of life and am decently mechanically inclined.

I plan on making my own step by step list this weekend, posting it for approval, and deciding if I want to do it. So this thread is as much a feeler thread for me.

 

[Pull Ya]

IMHO----if you have someone to "supervise", abet from afar, then I say go for it. I think you have started the process by gathering all the information you can, and it sounds like you have the proper tools, a lift and a trans jack, so put your final list together and let's see it. I applaud your desire to give it a try and being realistic enough to do your homework first.
Jay

 

[jlpowell84]

Yea and he (my mechanic) may actually end up being the lead or there more time than just from distance. I will post my own created step list by tomm eve

 

[Pull Ya]

Here is your alternative list:
Take to shop
Go home
Go pick up truck when complete
Pay for work
Drive it like you stole it

Jay

 

[jlpowell84]

Here is your alternative list:
Take to shop
Go home
Go pick up truck when complete
Pay for work
Drive it like you stole it

Jay

Ah man you present the EXACT temptation! I confess part of my motivation is saving 300-400 bucks. I don't care to admit how much I have spent the last two months on this damn truck!

I also confess I am getting pretty damn excited watching some before and after vids. As soon as it hits the preset RPM she takes off! 305/60/R18 Terra Grapplers (gaining a 2.10" reduction from a 34.5" tire) go on in the morning so she should have a bit from that too.

 

[Pull Ya]

After I installed my Edge 2600 there was a VERY noticeable difference. It was really fun to drive especially with the 3.92 gears. Lots of low end grunt!!!!
Jay

 

[jlpowell84]

Awesome! So you went with a 2600 speed then. Is that the lowest around here? I see 3000, 3200, 3400 a bit. Matt felt 2800 RPM was best for me but that also was with 34.5" diameter mud terrains. The Nittos are 32.4" and I made that choice to change after the order was made. I hope it's all good still :/

Looks like you have near stock tire size but also 3.92 gears. Sure wish I could change gears but 3.55 with 32.4" tires and the TQ should be good enough...I hope...

 

[Pull Ya]

I think you'll be really happy.
Jay

 

[Palomba]

Front pumps get pricey, Be sure you slide the converter on and it seats fully. if yo tilt your trans jack a bit it will not loose any fluid when removing it. It helps to add a couple quarts the the new converter before installing it. Will take 5-6 quarts total assuming you don't pull the pan. The RFE in a 2 wheel drive can be pulled in 30 mins. Wobble sockets are your friend here. Take the cover off, get your converter bolts out. I use a wrench that has an extended end to make getting them loose easier, then a ratchet and shallow socket on the driver side gives you enough room to remove them with ease. Put the clips back in the trans cooler line connections when you have the trans down , so when you put it back in all you have to do is push on the lines and they snap right in rather than fighting the clips at an akward angle. Youll want to leave the bolts on the converter almost all the way in but loose enough to turn the converter back and forth a bit, but don't leave to much hanging or it will grab behind the engine. This allows you to start all your bolts without stripping threads or fighting them, then suck em all down tight. Edge comes with bolts, but they are a bit different than the factory 18mm converter bolts.

You will feel the converter lock in, will hear a clunk. using your thumbs spin it while pushing from the top side it will lock right in. You can look at the pump and see the 2 flat sides to give you an idea where to start when lining it up. They are no big deal. Ive had mine out 10 times. (tranmssion hell with overdrive clutches).

Leave it so your transmission cross member goes in after you put in all your bellhousing bolts, leaves the engine tilted down makes for attacking them much easier, I use a bunge on the harness to hold it up out of the way. Be sure the bracket on the left side stays behind the trans and you don't trap it between the transmission and the block.

Good luck!

 

[jlpowell84]

Awesome stuff Palomba! Exactly what I was asking for, thank you very much.

Assembling list tomm, was busy today unistalling Magnum RT steps, Tire shop for couple hrs, off too meet buyer of steps, then to meet wife after a Sat shift at the bank, grab some stuff for dinner to make as brother and girlfriend came over then it was 930pm and we relaxed and watched some stuff.

I did get the 305/60 Terra Grapplers installed and it was a step in the right direction A noticeable feel in power gain and really noticeable low end torque gains.

 

[TestPilot57]

So I went to Moe's site and it shows that the Edge is only available >= 2014. What options are there for a 2600-2800 stall TC for a 2015?

 

[Pull Ya]

I don't think Edge has anything for our 8 speed's yet. Apparently it takes time to catch up to the new models.
Jay