Installed level kit and bigger tires now some issues

[sinnyz79]

So I put a 2.5" leveling kit on the front when I added the 35" tires and 20" rims. There are apparently different tire pressure sensors because I keep getting the light to come on and flash 3 times every time I'm driving then it stays on. I thought these were self learning and would go off? I have aired up all the tires so not sure why it keeps coming on.

Also, I changed out the front struts(monroe all in ones)when I put the level kit on because they were under warranty anyway and had been leaking. Do I need a heavier duty strut to handle the bigger tires or anything else I need to beef up like the brakes or other suspension parts? Now that it's been done of course I'm asking.

Now that the front is lifted, the back end is sitting lower. I need to replace the back shocks anyway because they are worn out and was thinking of going with a Billstein or some other heavy duty shock that will lift it at least 2". Any good recommendations for this? Here are a couple pics of the truck currently.

 

[richman513]

I believe you need a block and not just longer shocks in the rear. I would consider dual steering stabilizer with 35" and bigger tires. Puts more stress on the steering components

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[justin13703]

The sensors should be auto learning if they’re the right ones. You can take it to the dealership and they can scan for them and manually program them if they’re right. When I ordered my wheels and tires I also had them install the pressure sensors but I also couldn’t get them to learn. Took it to the dealership and they said they couldn’t even see them on the scan tool. Turns out they were never even installed. The company made it right though.

The weight of wheels/tires doesn’t apply to the shocks. They’re basically attached to the bottom of the suspension so it doesn’t even know they’re there. They add to the total weight of the vehicle, but not the weight that the suspension system supports.

Better brakes are not a bad idea. Big/heavy wheels and tires add a lot of rotating mass that the truck not only has to move, but also has to stop. I can tell you that when I went to 35s with 20s, I felt a noticeable difference negatively with both acceleration and braking.

A different shock alone in the back isn’t going to lift it up. And blocks generally ride like ****. It’s too bad you didn’t use bilstein 5100s in the front because they are adjustable height and that would have knocked out leveling and shock replacement at the same time, without having to touch the back end. Unless your truck is 2wd or a 2500 in which case you couldn’t use 5100s anyway.

I’ve had my 35x12.5x20 tires/wheels on my truck for a couple years now. The only thing I’ve done is leveled it with the 5100s. As far as the rest of the suspension, steering, brakes etc, it’s all stock. I haven’t had any issues yet (knock on wood)

 

[sinnyz79]

What about air shocks to raise up the back end? I need new rear stocks anyway and this would help lift them and also help when I'm towing to keep the back from squatting. I know people say air shocks ride stiff but I've had several vehicles with them and always seemed to ride normal. We put them on my brothers '78 El Camino back in the day and it rode great and looked sweet.

 

[sinnyz79]

Not sure why my post got moved, should be under lifted where I originally had it. ANYWAY, what do you think is the best rear suspension option for lifting the back end up? Blocks, new leaf springs, air bags, or air shocks. I want the best option to help with towing and also level it out.

Thanks!

 

[Graygoose]

You can do springs, and replace new shocks while at it. If you didn't originally change rear, you can do rear stock OEM type shocks.

 

[nathantc]

And blocks generally ride like ****.



please explain this one.

adding up to 4" of a block between the rear axle and leaf spring does liturally nothing to the way the truck rides from a comfort standpoint. its highly unadvisable to go more than 4" though.

now for towing adding blocks can cause major axle wrap and mess up the u-joint at the pinion, warp your springs, or even break the u-bolts. traction bars or some other type of anti wrap system is a good idea for anything over 2" if towing

if you never tow, and its a road queen that never see's hard off roading (high speed-offroad, jumping, rock crawling) then a set of STEEL blocks and most importantly NEW u-bolts will do you just fine. will not change the ride quality at all being as the spring rate is not changed.

if you do a lot of towing do a FULL LENGTH 2" add-a-leaf, will be stiffer in the rear but greatly improve the ride and handling with a load and will also resist axle wrap under high torque

im speaking from personal experience and from lessons learned the hard way as a young man, not from internet nonsense

 

[justin13703]

im speaking from personal experience and from lessons learned the hard way as a young man, not from internet nonsense

Yeah, me too.

In short, the farther away you take the axle from the spring seat, the more instability you are going to get. Not only front to back movement from axle wrap, but also side to side during corners. Basically any torque that tries to twist the axle/spring is magified. This is basic stuff.

Blocks are not bad and are cheap but in most cases there is a better choice but usually for more money.

 

[nathantc]

Yeah, me too.

just asking honestly how you figure blocks change anything about the ride from a comfort standpoint, assuming we are talking about a block between leaf spring and axle, not coil spring spacers.

 

[sinnyz79]

And blocks generally ride like ****.



please explain this one.

adding up to 4" of a block between the rear axle and leaf spring does liturally nothing to the way the truck rides from a comfort standpoint. its highly unadvisable to go more than 4" though.

now for towing adding blocks can cause major axle wrap and mess up the u-joint at the pinion, warp your springs, or even break the u-bolts. traction bars or some other type of anti wrap system is a good idea for anything over 2" if towing

if you never tow, and its a road queen that never see's hard off roading (high speed-offroad, jumping, rock crawling) then a set of STEEL blocks and most importantly NEW u-bolts will do you just fine. will not change the ride quality at all being as the spring rate is not changed.

if you do a lot of towing do a FULL LENGTH 2" add-a-leaf, will be stiffer in the rear but greatly improve the ride and handling with a load and will also resist axle wrap under high torque

im speaking from personal experience and from lessons learned the hard way as a young man, not from internet nonsense

For me, I do a decent amount of towing because I use the truck for my business. It sounds like the 2" leafs would be the best way to go for what I'm doing with the truck. I don't really take it off road so this will work.

 

[nathantc]

For me, I do a decent amount of towing because I use the truck for my business. It sounds like the 2" leafs would be the best way to go for what I'm doing with the truck. I don't really take it off road so this will work.

yup, im doing the 4.5 lift spindles and a 2" full lengh add-a-leaf to my truck as well, just waiting on getting new hubs, all new ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar links. going to fully rebuild the front end when i add the spindles to prevent me from ever have to double work if you know what i mean. Im also going to change my leaf spring bushings when i do the add-a-leaf to the rear as well as new u-joints for good mesure.

i do a lot of cross country runs and the truck just rolled 160k miles and one lower ball joint is already squeeking so for me its just good insurance to do so while i got it apart.

this will be the second 3rd gen 2wd ive done this to... this set up with 33" tires on my 20" wheels with my 4.56 gear makes for a very nice truck for rough roads, driveways, back roads, and towing.

that and its nice to be just high enough to straddle something as large as a cenderblock on the hwy without worry. it does happen lol

are you going to be doing the work yourself

 

[sinnyz79]

I'll do the leaf springs myself but I had the level kit on the front, new struts, new control arm with ball joint and tires/rims installed by a local shop.