Is This a 13 sec Formula?

[98sinisterCOBRA]

Hey Guys, so I went to Royal Purple Raceway a few weeks ago and pulled off a 14.3 Sec 1/4 Mile time @94-95 mph. Here were my mods, and I have HEAVY lol SRT 22's AND a ported 15" Sub enclosure

TRUCK: 2013 RCSB w/ 3.55 gears

Old Set-up

- Vararam
- Cherry Bomb Extreme
- Diablo with Crappy 93 Can Tune

I ran 14.3 - 14.8 through out the day with mostly 14.5's


My new Mods

- Vararam
- Cherry Bomb Extreme
- JBA Off Road Y pipe
- JBA Longtube Headers
- Diablo w/ Hemifever Tune (Big Difference lol)

IS THIS ENOUGH TO MAYBE BREAK 13's?

my 0-60 BEFORE full exhaust and Hemifever tune was 5.9 sec, now it is 5.5

THANKS to Moes Performance for getting me the exhaust quick! Talked to Matt on the phone about the headers and Y pipe, and got here FAST!

Also thanks to Sean @ Hemifever, BIG difference even though you all still tuning it, just sent the Logs a few hours ago! so my only guess is it will run even better!


I just want a 13.999 sec 1/4 mile with the stock 3.55's haha

 

[fasthemiram12]

I would think gears would put you there for sure...

 

[gunner1374]

I have heard that an 87mm throttle body and a 3000 stall converter are both good gains. Also, lose the heavy wheels and tires. I changed my wheels and tires and shaved 72 lbs of unsprung weight off. It equated into almost a full second off of my 0-60. 28" drag radials on 17s would do even better for the track. Just a thought. Good luck Sir!

 

[BlackRamHemi]

I have a 10' RCSB 4x4, 3.55 gears, stock ran 15.3's in mid summer heat


My first 13 slip was a 13.89/98.5 at 2500' DA
Only mods at the time were Airaid intake, Magnaflow CatBack, 180º T-stat
Diablo 93' canned tune with maxed out shift points and DR's

The biggest help was leaving the heavy 20's with 305/50R20 Terra Grapplers at home
in favor of 28" Mickey Thompson DR's on light 17" wheels all four corners
That took my ET's from 14.3-14.5's into the high 13's



If you have a 2wd, a 4.10 or 4.56 gear swap would be your best upgrade
It was out of my price range for my 4x4, so I went with smaller lighter tires instead
for half the cost of a swap for front/rear on gears.

My effective gear ratio dropped from 3.55's to 4.25:1
plus I had waaaay better traction.

If you get the bug for some real performance
toss a turbo or a supercharger on it



Used to get a second gear chirp in 4WD, just before the stock trans took a dump

My best time on 3.55's was a 13.129
the day before my stock trans threw in the towel...haven't been back since


So close to the 12's too




Ripp Supercharger / Water **** / 8 PSI / 3000 Stall TC

 

[charonblk07]

Your wheel/tire combo is what's really holding you back, you don't need to go the full DR route, but at least swap out the 22s, not only are they a stupid heavy wheel, but most of that weight is on the outside diameter which is the worst place for it to be.

 

[RLJ10X]

I don't know if the 13's have the 6 or 8 speed. If you have the 8 disregard what comes next.

On the 5 or 6 speeds, which are the same tranny, IMHO, gears are the cornerstone you do first, and build from there. 3.55+545RFE is a horrible combo, if you want to go fast, or just enjoy your truck. Gears are the only go-fast mod that, all other things being equal, are easier on the transmission, because of the greater mechanical advantage. And there's no advantage like mechanical advantage. Again: IMHO, gears amplify all the gains you get from other mods such as a tune, headers, etc.

4.10s are good all arounders. That's what I did. But if I was serious, I'd have Matt hook me up with 4.56s. <That's where the good times are at!

 

[Lawhand]

the biggest thing that will help your time is to lose some weight. run your tank down to about 1/4 a tank before you go to the track, and take your spare tire off. like stated above "HEAVY 20 inch stock wheels" or 22 SRTs will greatly hurt your time.

with how your mods are currently listen i would recommend a performance LimitedS diff. and if you already have he mopar one, i would invest in some 17" aluminums with some semislicks. should be a 13 flat formula right there.

this Christmas i hope to get my JBA headers installed... they have been sitting around the garage for about 6 months now. very depressing

 

[SIhemi]

Is it worth going from 3.92 gears to 4.10. I have the same srt 22" rims with nitto 420's. My truck is my daily driver so I would think 4.56 would be to high plus it's a 4 wheel dirive.

 

[dtru1222]

Just curious why you thought the 93 canned tune was crappy?

The custom tune will be much better by far, but if you were seeing a ton of knock on the canned tune its best to work to eliminate the cause of the knock instead of tuning around it.

you would benefit more by first off eliminating the knock then getting the custom tune.

 

[charonblk07]

Your assumption is that knock is the issue, which is very rarely the case as long as 93 octane (pure or ethanol blend doesn't matter) is actually being used since the canned tunes are quite conservative in their timing to prevent this, but it is very vehicle dependent. Unless it's a physical issue, there's only a few ways to take care of knocking: plugs, fuel, or timing.

I have never been impressed with the DS canned tunes, superchips and BD have better canned tunes but you're stuck with DS if you want custom tuning then it's up to the tuner, not the hardware.

 

[dtru1222]

Your assumption is that knock is the issue, which is very rarely the case as long as 93 octane (pure or ethanol blend doesn't matter) is actually being used since the canned tunes are quite conservative in their timing to prevent this, but it is very vehicle dependent. Unless it's a physical issue, there's only a few ways to take care of knocking: plugs, fuel, or timing.

I have never been impressed with the DS canned tunes, superchips and BD have better canned tunes but you're stuck with DS if you want custom tuning then it's up to the tuner, not the hardware.

I agree that its very vehicle dependent, but every person who has reported their logs show knock even on 93 octane. Even higher when running the 93 canned tune.

For instance, even on the stock tune and running 93 octane I was getting 9 ST and 1 LT knock retard. The general idea is 5hp for every one degree of timing retard so you could imagine how much my performance was degraded.

You will never know until you log, but like I said every person I have seen log their knock retard was getting high numbers. If its anything above 2 ST or 0 LT then you need to work at eliminating it.

Over the past 5 years I have been lurking the forums 90% of people complaining about the canned tunes has been a result of knock. Just trying to help.

 

[Hemi_Express2013]

I agree that its very vehicle dependent, but every person who has reported their logs show knock even on 93 octane. Even higher when running the 93 canned tune.

For instance, even on the stock tune and running 93 octane I was getting 9 ST and 1 LT knock retard. The general idea is 5hp for every one degree of timing retard so you could imagine how much my performance was degraded.

You will never know until you log, but like I said every person I have seen log their knock retard was getting high numbers. If its anything above 2 ST or 0 LT then you need to work at eliminating it.

Over the past 5 years I have been lurking the forums 90% of people complaining about the canned tunes has been a result of knock. Just trying to help.

Yeah, if you're seeing 9* ST Knock and 1 LT Knock then yes that's a problem. It could be a lot of reasons as you know. You're going to see some knock at shifts and WOT but the important thing to consider is rate of decay in the knock. If it's real KN, then the rate of decay will be .8* a sec recover or longer. Rise and fall quickly isn't real knock. 7.2 sec decay at 9* ST Knock or longer. 3-5* is a pita but no worries, anything higher than 5* with any LT knock is a concern.

 

[dtru1222]

Yeah, if you're seeing 9* ST Knock and 1 LT Knock then yes that's a problem. It could be a lot of reasons as you know. You're going to see some knock at shifts and WOT but the important thing to consider is rate of decay in the knock. If it's real KN, then the rate of decay will be .8* a sec recover or longer. Rise and fall quickly isn't real knock. 7.2 sec decay at 9* ST Knock or longer. 3-5* is a pita but no worries, anything higher than 5* with any LT knock is a concern.

A quick way to determine real vs false knock is to run a much higher octane. I did and it completely eliminated the knock so I knew it was true knock.

There were a few other tricks done to reduce the knock but I ultimately had to tune it out.